I currently have a basic Remington 700 in .308 that I would like to enhance. The purpose of this rifle is for precision - I do not have any competition in mind for it, but I would like to attend some classes with it at some point. I think I know just enough about this to get me in trouble so here are the things I have identified to replace:
Barrel I already ordered a barrel from Bartlein. I plan on having them install it when the time comes.
Stock Will probably go with a HS as I think I can get a deal on one, but this is not set in stone. Currently looking at their PST025.
Trigger Timney straight trigger. Is there a reason to get the nickel version?
I read through the thread on rings and bases so I think I have that covered.
I also plan on putting a Surefire comp on there. I chose that brand for use with a can. Also ordered a Badger bolt knob.
I see recoil lugs available - is there a benefit to getting an oversized lug?
This is what I have so far. I plan on ordered the parts over the next several months so I have something to work on when I get home. Is there anything else I should be looking at before the work starts?
Stocks are preferences as long as its solid and doesn’t flex. Bed it.
Timney rocks. Never tried the nickle so no opinion.
Oversized re oil lugs do nothing. But of your having the rifle barreled go ahead and get one thats at least parallel ground. Bed the rifle. Pillar bed it if you can.
Other things to consider… Bottom metal, optics, finish, and, what’s that thing called? Oh yeah. Shoot the shit out of it. Save for ammo and reloading if you don’t already.
ETA: I would get the base, rings and optic in that order first. Before the shiny bits for the rifle. That way you can shoot it before and while ordering parts. You do run the risk of “it’s good enough” and not getting all the stuff to make it great, but you also get to grow your skill set while acquiring parts.
Are you going to have it blueprints while the barrel is off?
I went with 1:11.25 twist. I researched this project roughly 8 years ago and that seemed to be the twist to go with then. Most folks say it will handle 175 grain loads so I figured to just stick with that. Other specs on the barrel are 21.5" M24 contour unfluted.
m24 contour is heavy as balls. i’d rather have a 24-26" medium palma type contour. if you are concerned about having a short system for moving around in a car or something, look at all the good options for folding stocks instead of cutting your velocity. (manners, whiskey-3, XLR, AICS, etc). while something like the XLR or AICS does look a little more expensive at first, consider that you don’t have to bed it and you don’t need bottom metal. it could actually wind up being cheaper.
don’t forget to budget a little extra for some cerakote or something on the bbl. and for the muzzle threading.
bartlein is definitely a great choice, but i wasn’t aware they offered gunsmithing services like chambering it and installing it.
i’d pass on the surefire brake/can, unless you already have the can. thunderbeast is the way to go for precision rifles.
Yes, Bartlein does offer services. It was on their website and it is all set to go when the barrel is done. Its funny you mention barrel length - another member on here said I shouldn’t go over 18" for .308.
I was looking at the Manners stocks as well. You have me eyeing up their mini chassis now. Although their stock I like with the mini chassis would put me in the AI range. Decisions, decisions… The only reason I was considering HS was if I can get a smoking good deal on it.
well, i guess their definition of ‘precision’ is different than mine.
manners mini chassis are definitely nice. long wait, but i guess that won’t matter for you so much. it comes down to whether you like a pistol grip, thumb hole or palm swell.
I’m with Taliv. A manners folder would be the ticket.
Also on barrel length. If you are looking to push the distance with a 308… 18" won’t get you there. 24-26" is a good place to be. At 18", prepare to get stomped at 800-1000yds. If you are only going to 600yds, then 18" does fine.
Thunderbeast makes some good cans… but I prefer DTA’s DTSS.
Send it to GA precision. Have them blueprint the action, chamber it and cut the barrel at 20 inches. Consider getting a Precision Bolt stop/release Mod.
Manners stocks is right down the road from them. Have them get you a T5A with a mini chassis The GAP camo paint job looks awesome if you want to add it.
I probably should have included this in the first post, but the longest range in my area is 500 yards and I would have to be invited by a club member. The majority of the shooting will be done at 400 and closer. I can shoot longer when I visit family out of state.
How much performance would be lost with a 21.5" barrel vs. a 24"?
18 inches will take you to 1000 yards. 24 inches is not needed. If 21.5 is what you like then go with it. Personally I don’t care to go over 20 for a tactical rifle.
The longer the barrel the more velocity. With that said I wouldn’t want a 32" Palma barrel for tactical use. If I were shooting mostly at 1000 yards I would probably not go under 26" Most tactical shooting takes place under 500 yards. In this case there is little to no advantage to the long barrel in a 308.
It comes down to what you want, a short handy tactical rifle that is a great all around performer or a long barrel that excels at 1000 yards but sucks maneuvering around with.
Really if I wanted great 1000 yard performance I wouldn’t use a 308 anyway.
This is where I at as well. Right now, I really do not have an interest in official long range matches. This is mainly to improve my 700 so I can work on longer range skill.
Here is another question - is it unrealistic to go with a bedded stock now and get a chassis system later on?
There is nothing wrong with going with something like an HS precision police stock and upgrading to something else later.
I started out with one and when I saved some money for a better one I sold it on Snipers Hide and bought a Manners T5A with the mini chassis. It was only a couple of days before I had a buyer.
The nice thing about the HS is it comes with a bedding block already in it. You don’t have to worry about pillar bedding it. Some people skim bed it but it is not necessary.
This is what I have now.
= don’t have that much $$ to spend.