I have never reloaded before and am just now looking in to learning more about it and getting set up. I was just wondering if there are any good resources for a beginner that someone could recommend to help me learn more about the subject and I am specifically interested in loading a mk262 clone. Any help would be appreciated.
I’m not a reloader, but a regular here named Markm can probably help you. He could be along at some point here later.
Also, have you tried a search on reloading?
While it is not a recipe book, The ABC’s of Reloading 7th Edition is very worthwhile to the beginning reloader.
ABC’s of reloading is a good book, that is what I started on.
The biggest key to good reloads is taking your time and trying for the highest level of consistency. Using the same headstamp brass, full length sizing, trimming to the same length, consistent charge weights and neck tension will all help to get the best accuracy.
After that you need to experiment with the combination of components that best fit your gun.
Get with another ‘experienced’ reloader & read as much as you can.
The best thing you can do to mimic a load is to chrony the factory with the gun you want to use & then Slowly work up the powder watching for pressure with your reloads (again, this is where a trusted reloader can assist) Every gun / powder / bullet combo acts different when you start getting hot.
Offering max load data or accepting something you cannot compare / confirm in loading books can bite you.
I’ve done some research here. Have not put this load to the test, so this is “Internet” info, not necessarily correct:
77gr Sierra MatchKing w/Cannelure
CCI Magnum Primer
“Custom” Tac-Ramshot
Approx 25gr Tac and velocity greater than 2700fps.
Dude - something to slowly work up to and be careful about it.
Can I ask why you want to reload?
Reason I’m asking is I wrote up what ended up being something close to an article for a friend and it might be instructive for you if you’ve got similar motivations to him. It isn’t good enough for me to post here yet but I’ve thought about cleaning it up - just didn’t have a reason.
I got into this about a year and a half ago, and got in deep, but it really isn’t for everyone and if I help one guy who isn’t going to love it avoid spending money on gear they’d be better off using to get a 5.45 upper I’ve done my civic duty…
Stay with published loads from manuals (Sierra, Hornady, powder manufacturer’s, and don’t start at max - “work up”. A good scale and a set of calipers are mandatory. You need your on manuals - never trust anything you get on the net without verifying the data.
I’m getting 2,600 fps and good accuracy in a 16" middy with TAC powder and the Sierra 77gr OTM - and this is still under Sierra’s book maximum of 24 grains. Trying to reach the velocity of the 5.56 pressure Mk 262 could be foolish, even for an experienced loader. You don’t have access to the same powders as, not to mention pressure testing equipment. I’m not saying it cannot be done, just not safely by the average Joe.
Start collecting reloading data from known good sources (like reloading manuals, & powder companies)
Put the data in a spreadsheet.
That way when someone offers you the “sweet load” you can know if it is reasonable.
Other hints.
When changing components and close to max load, back off and work up again.
MK 262 Mod
77 gr SMK no canalure
LC crimped case
canister grade TAC 24ish grains
MK 262 Mod
77gr SMK w/canalure.
The powder charge is similar but don’t remember exactly. I need to take one apart to get it.
I’ve shot it with 23 grains and it is accurate out of a20 inch barrel. When I reload I bump it up more now. Remember to use load manual to work up your load
Dan
I agree with almost all of this. I question the value of sorting brass by headstamp though.
I used to sort by headstamp and year (for brass that was stamped with it).
After measuring capacity of Rem, LC, PMC, and Fiocchi brass I found the capacity variance within like headstamp brass was far greater than the difference between average capacities of the various headstamps.
So, unless I’m missing something, I can’t see how sorting does anything to enhance consistency.
Measured 10 of each headstamp, grains of H2O.
Molon - point taken.
I should clarify what I meant - it seems that sorting by headstamp would have little effect since there is such wide variation of brass even with the same headstamp.
Sorting by case capacity is a different story.
Is there a trick to sorting by case capacity or do you just fill it to the brim with powder then weigh it?
I’m getting into accuracy the more I reload and if there’s a better way to do it I’m all ears.