I don’t have one but have considered getting an alloy or scandium snub for shooting .38’s from.
I recall that the 340PD models call for jacketed bullets of at least 125 grn. This is probably to prevent bullet pull.
But is that really necessary when one can load their own?
I’ve loaded a few hundred .38 Colt Shorts with soft 145 gr bullets to avg 615 fps from a 3" barrel. The crimp is mild but I could crimp more next time.
Would these really be a “pull” problem in a scandium snub?
I have 3 different titanium cylinder models. 340pd, 327pc and 329pd. I don’t shoot a lot of magnum loads but I generally stick with heavier grain bullets just to be safe and not cause any cylinder erosion.
I had gone the LCR route favoring the trigger and weight in .357 / 6 shot .327. (Both 17 oz empty, 19 oz loaded) The .357 got worn. Sold with disclosure.
Now, I’d prefer the smaller, lighter J. (17 oz for a loaded 442, 14 oz for a loaded 340pd) Especially since I started reloading.
As for .327 in a snub, it can perform but the blast is atrocious and recoil like a moderate .357 magnum. It seems like a certain ear-killer.
Loading .32 mag hot, and I do, provides .380 performance at best.
I could load .38’s light for practice, up for carry. Wouldn’t fire .357 from it.
Nah. Not into killing my hands. I want to shoot and delay arthritis for the long-haul.
I did fire one many years ago. 125 gr sjhp Federals IIRC. I know I fired it until empty but the owner may have only put 3 rounds it. Or it was 5, I forget. But I was very glad when it was over. and knew by shot 2 I’d never fire full .357 from one of these again in the future.
I would be concerned of actually tearing issue / breaking a bone in my hand. The question would be is there a hollow point with weight & velocity that is tolerable.
A soft 160 gr LHP like from GT bullets at 850 is, but I’d have concerns regarding bullet- pull, being lead.
Hot .38’s / mild .357 was ok in the LCR 2" .357’s I had and in my 3" King Cobra.
But I haven’t fired an alloy J-frame in awhile and I may find hot .38 to be too much.
There are some hot .38 loads that can expand a little and penetrate well from a 2" barrel. But once you get down to standard .38 pressures there aren’t and SWC’s, WC’s, and HP’s you know aren’t going to expand become the carry load. .380 performance.
Then it’s in competition with .327/.32 mag / .25 acp pocket guns I already have.
If S&W’s were better-made (durable) I may have bought one.
But I’ve been checking reviews and they have their share of problems. Too bad.
As a backup I’d rather carry a .38 LCR with a boot grip (15.5 oz loaded) or what I already have, a Beretta M21a .25. (14 oz loaded) 8+1 and reloads (gee, what a bad day) easy to carry and faster to use.
Excerpt from referenced forum:
“ALL SCANDIUM REVOLVERS FIRING MAGNUM AMMUNITION
WARNING: DO NOT USE MAGNUM® LOADINGS WITH BULLET WEIGHTS OF LESS THAN 120 GR. THIS WILL REDUCE THE POSSIBILITY OF PREMATURE CYLINDER EROSION.”
Note, I don’t have the subject revolver. I haven’t read its manual. And I don’t reload. I don’t know anything about bullets pulling out and jamming up a revolver, but can understand it would be a problem if it occurred.
The above quoted excerpt regarding cylinder erosion seems to be the main reasoning behind not using magnum .357 ammo with projectile weights below 120 grains.
The issue with light magnum loads is the projectile jumping forward of the not very sturdy crimp. I has this happen twice on two different aluminum and scandium J-frames.
A scandium frame with a titanium cylinder is especially prone to this. It will lock up the revolver, a bad thing to happen during an urgent need.
I also have a pair of 342’s and a 242. I make a point of only shooting wadcutters in them.
I believe only the hottest .38 +P can expand a little and penetrate decently from <2" barrel.
Due to recoil & bullet pull I’d only be using standard pressure .38’s. Wadcutters, SWC, or a JHP I know isnt going to expand.
Might as well use what I already have, is just as light, smaller, that i shoot well, is fun to shoot, safe to carry, double-action, will work with direct contact, and is reliable. (The .25 Beretta Bobcat)
I don’t reload for it, but I will say that I have had cheap 158gr ball ammo jump crimp and lock up the gun. Both rounds lacked a noticeable crimp. If you reload I recommend a good roll crimp as mentioned above.
On the shooting, grip and grips matter. I have a pair of large laser grips on mine, and it’s a significant improvement on control and reduces recoil. Hogue and Pachmyer also make good grips for the pistol.