Hey everyone, I am still new to reloading and have only loaded around 100 rounds for my 308. I want to reload for my 1911 and was wondering what I need to be aware of. I have read a lot about different primer sizes, military crimps, ( which I have no clue how to tell if it is military crimped or what I would need to do to get rid of them) roll crimp and taper crimp. Also all I am looking to reload is plinking rounds but i don’t know what type of bullets i should be looking as or powders, let alone where to start for the amount of grains. I have a lyman 49th and hornady reloading manuals, but what do i do if i’m not using those specific bullets. Any help here would be most appreciated thanks in advance.
What kind of press/setup are you using?
I used Solo 1000 for 12 years with no issues. I recently switched because it sometimes doesnt meter accurate 100%, but will probably go back. I like it because it is a clean burning power that is a little more “fluffy” than others. This is helpful because the .45 is a large shell and it is easy to double charge with powders like Bullseye.
On that note, if you are using a progressive press I HIGHLY recommend the RCBS Lockout Die if you have a spot for it.
Uses a taper crimp
I have never run into military crimps on 45 brass. But I have collected a bunch of small primer .45 brass. I first thought to toss it but some research showed reloading it doesn’t really affect pressures. Now that I am loading more 9mm, it is convenient to not have to change the primer set up in my Hornady.
1911’s are more picky with reloads in my experience. Find one that works in your gun and stick with it.
For an IDPA load I liked 5grs of Solo 1000 under a 230gr plated bullet. Gets me about 760FPS out of a 5" 1911 and 740fps out of an M&P FS 45
For a super accurate bullseye load I like 4.2grs of Solo 1000 behind a 185gr LSWC. This will NOT cycle a gun with stock springs but it is a 1.5" load out of my accurized 1911 in a Ransom rest at 50 YARDS.
All above info plus,
Don’t over flare your cases, all you need is just enough to get bullet started.
I crimp to around .471 ( measured O.D. of case mouth with bullet seated)
Load a dummy round, remove barrel & insert cartridge. Cartridge rim should be flush with barrel. Mine likes 1.230 COAL.
You now headspace on case mouth, watch for super short/long cases.
Hopefully you got a carbide sizer die. Enjoy not lubing every case!
I am reloading on a single stage hornady lock n load press.
If you shoot a lot I would highly suggest a progressive reloader if it is in the budget. Dillon is the most popular but the Hornady LnL is a much, much smarter design IMO. Lee’s are a POS…I used one for 8 years and I think it took 8 years off my life. Load 100 rounds…then readjust…load 30 and unjam primer slider, load 200 rounds and think you got it…but then the case feeder is f’d up. Screw that.
Pistol is so easy and you can safely pump the rounds out pretty fast.
Loading 45 on a single stage would drive me insane
Check out the reloading section at 1911forum. Lots of guys there with alot of knowledge.
You’ll find Winchester 231 is the vast favorite powder for .45 auto.
You’ll likely not find crimped primer 45 brass, but if you do, you’ll know. New primers seat very hard, so sort them out and swage or ream.
Don’t worry too much about exact bullets in your manual. Just pick one closest in shape & weight and start at the low end of data and work up.
Straight wall, low pressure pistol ammo is much easier to work with than rifle.
Also, go to precisiondelta.com for 230gr FMJ bullets. Good product at a good price.
230gr. FMJ with 5.0gr of win 231 at around 1.230 is a good, soft shooting load.
I should add that I am also on a single stage. I hand weigh every charge. Loading 50 rounds is a beat down. But the OP has stated that he has only 100 reloads under his belt. I personally think he should stay single stage for awhile so he can triple check his work. I haven’t gone progressive because I wouldn’t see the savings in building practice ammo to justify the price.
I reload pistol ammo to try and clone my carry ammo ballistics & POA/POI. I do save money that route but its time consuming.
For your purposes a single stage is fine but I am wholeheartedly 150% against advising people to start off with a single stage. Reloading pistol is very easy and you can look in each case just as easy on a progressive as a single. I started on a progressive and there was no real learning curve.
A single stage press is nice to have for precision ammo but your money would be better invested in a progressive if you even shoot 50 rounds a month. The progressive is MUCH more enjoyable and will actually encourage you to shoot more.
To the OP, definitely research on a reloading forum and take a look at that 1911 forum mentioned. M4carbine.net is not the ideal place for this info…hence the name 
The .45 ACP is the EASIEST of all the pistol, no, ALL the cartridges I load for. I have used Clays for years and wouldn’t use anything but coated (Bayou Bullets, BBI, etc) 230 gr Rn bullets. I, too, loaded on a single stage press for years until reloading time exceeded trigger time. Got a Dillon 450, now upgraded to 550 in the mid-80s and have been rockin’ ever since.
I can agree with that. I used poor wording on the “triple check”. I should have said “be able to focus on one case at a time”
I am personally glad I started on a single stage and was forced to swap dies back and forth to get the hang of things. I started reloading for large rifle & moved into supplementing some of my handgun ammo. While not efficient it was a confidence builder.
I would love to get a progressive press. I have heard mix reviews on the hornady lock n load progressive press. But it is cheaper than the dillon press. If it runs great I wouldn’t mind spending the money on the hornady. But I do not have the money to drop on a dillon.
Good God! I am all about hand priming, single stage, etc. for the appropriate caliber. But for Friggin .45 ACP??? Are you kidding me? It’s Dillon or nothing. Damn! I started on a Dillon 550b and grew from there.
It all depends on what you are trying to do, dupliacate carry/factory ball, BE shooting, a power factor or just plain banging ammo (powder puff or full power. I generally load cast 230 ball between 825-50 with Bullseye, Unique, W231/HP38. I prefer ball type powders for more consistant metering but got kegs of the above to use so…
For banging ammo I’ll load 200 or 230s. In these times, I’d shoot anything I can get my hands on since the manufactures can’t seem to keep up with demand. The biggest thing with reloading is staying ahead of the demand. I haven’t checked since September but there was either nothing available to an 8-10 week lead. I generally try to forcast/stay a year or two ahead on supplies to cover market shortages, avoid purchases when lead is high and elections. I generally use Wideners, Powder Valley and MBC to keep supplied and do group buys with a friend or two to get a discount.
When you price everything out they are about the exact same price as a 650xl. The only thing is that they allow retailers to sell it at any price they want. The build quality and customer service is the same. The priming system and the ability to switch dies individually makes the design superior IMHO.
Dillons are excellent presses but they have not really improved their design in decades. Most people bad mouthing the LNL are Dillon homers who never used a Hornady…and Dillon may have the most cult like following of any product in the firearms industry.
For volume pistol with the option for volume rifle I would personally only go with a LNL and a case feeder or the Dillon 650xl
This is a very very good read though something’s have improved with the Hornady since it was written.
http://www.comrace.ca/cmfiles/dillonLeeHornadyComparison.pdf
Berrys plated bullets, Xtreme bullets for plinking loads. You probably wont find much data on plated bullet loads. Look into Berrys website for their recommendations. Also google “plunk test”, that will save you a lot of hassle. Good luck and start low and go slow.
I just load Berry’s 230s to publish max FMJ. If you get into some hot .357 mag load… at that point there’s velocity threshholds that Berry suggest you stay below. But the low velocity and pressure on the .45 ACP? I just use Max FMJ data, and barely get into the 800s FPS range.
I picked up a used Dillon Square Deal for $250 shipped with 3 die sets, best investment I have made in a long time. I have a T7 for match reloads and will probably get a 550 for rifle plinking down the road. Some might cry against the SD, but for the money and ease I really like having a dedicated pistol or press
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
This is good advice. I have always done this. Load plated .45 to FMJ data and your result should be very similar.
I just can’t understand the Lee hate. I know Dillon’s or Hornady’s progressives are “better” presses. There’s no question at all of that fact but Lee’s Load Master and their turret presses are such a great value! Maybe I’m the only lucky one but I have no problems keeping my Load Master running and talk about easy to set up and change calibers. I can switch from 9mm to .45acp in about 5 minutes including verifying the powder throw.
Granted I do everything as cheaply as possible. I am a die hard skin flint! I cast my own pills from lead that I alloy myself from scavenged/recycled lead and spend countless hours looking for the best deal on just about everything I ever buy. But that doesn’t change the fact that Lee products are far better than the price would indicate.
For a very minimal investment one can start turning out pistol cartridges in quantity, quickly.
OP, Berry’s plated bullets are a good value. Also check out mastercast.net for hard cast lead bullets. They also have great deals from time to time on bulk powder but it can only be done local pick up(western PA).
I like win 231 for all of my pistol loads. HP38 is another(same?) good choice.