I’m just starting out reloading, and I’m hoping I can get some advice. I bought some equipment and supplies a while back but had to postpone things due to my work situation. Now I’m trying to get back at it.
Here’s what I have so far:
RCBS Model 505 Reloading Scale
Lee .45 ACP Carbide Dies #90513 (uses #13 shell holder)
Lee Class Turret Press (4 hole)
Hogdon Clays Powder (shows 5.2 grain for .45 ACP)
Magtech Large Pistol Primers #2-1/2
Montana Gold 230-grain FMJ Bullets
I know I still need to get some more equipment and supplies, but I don’t know what else I need. All I want to reload is basic 230-grain FMJ loads.
While you are picking up the rest of your supplies, I’d get a reloading manual or 3. There is must have info in there that is really going to save you a lot of grief… maybe your hands and face as well. Dont know your situation and I’m not trying to preach, just sayin!
Dial or digital calipers are a must for determining your OAL, so add those to the list. That is really going to play a role in how the round feeds in YOUR pistol and what kind of presure going to ned up with. I noticed you mentioned 5.2gr. of Clays. I know the front of the jug list that, but you’re really going to want to work up all your loads. I shoot 4.0gr. of Clays behind 230. Clays is fast, soft and clean. But, if I want a “regular” 230 FMJ load, I love W231. I think its all relative to what you want.
One can go on forever… There’s a metric crap-ton of info out there, just go slow, be safe and have fun.
Some case prep tools like a primer pocket cleaner a tumbler at some point to clean up your brass. Also a hand primer is nice to have if you want to get away from the bench and prime. And as Atchcraft said a few current reloading manuals and calipers. Then read and ask questions and take your time reloading to make sure you make every step the same and safe.
Here is my set up for pistol. Granted I dont have to set dies everytime since i use a 550b but the basics are the same.
Tumble brass
Resize/prime
Powder
Seat bullet of choice (oal is important here and calipers are required)
Crimp (taper or factory crimp die)
I stick each case into a case gauge and then into bulk holding.
You need caliper and a scale for tools. Books for load data and something to handle primers. The rest is mostly to make you load the same quality ammo faster.
Before anyone yells about case inspection that is handled in the many times you handle the brass including using the final case gauge.
Agree with others, above, that dial calipers (or digital) are really worthwhile.
Strongly suggest you obtain a taper crimp die and do that as a separate operation after seating bullets (do not crimp during the seating operation.)
Now the ticklish part: setting up the taper crimp die.
Ignore reloading manual specifications, as those are maximum dimensions. Instead, take two or three top-quality factory rounds and very carefully measure the outside diameter of the very end of the case mouths. Use the knife-edge part of the calipers to be sure you get the very end of the case mouth of the factory rounds. You should get 0.469" plus or minus .001.
Then, carefully, gradually, adjust you crimping die–trial and correction–until your reloaded rounds have that measurement at the edge of the case mouth. Tighten the locking ring on the die, and you are done!
If the crimp isn’t enough, the rounds may jam by not feeding into the chamber. If the rounds are crimped too much, the gun may jam because the rounds go too far into the chamber (the .45 headspaces on the case mouth–same for 9mm and .40 S&W.)
By the way, use the same method for determining overall cartridge length/seating depth. Take two or three factory FMJ 230 gr. rounds with the same bullet shape and measure those for overall length (much easier than measuring crimp on the case mouth.) Seat bullets to that overall length.
Whoa! This is not correct and would likely produce a dangerous over-pressure load per my Hodgdon manual. Clays “can” be used for lower velocity 45 ACP with 230 gr FMJ bullets, but there are better choices, IMO.
I bought the stuff on the advice of an acquaintance, but I’ve since learned there are better choices. Still, it is what it is, I’m stuck with it, and while it’s not the best, it will work. I hope.
I have Clays on my shelf. The load you’re quoting from the bottle is a MAX load for a 155 grain lead semi-wadcutter bullet.
Unless you’re shooting that particular bullet (which would be fairly rare for .45 ACP) you can not use that data.
Never start with a max load and never substitute a load meant for another bullet weight, ever.
Buy a manual and read. Then read some more. Then make sure to start low and work up.
Hodgdon’s website quotes 3.7 grains starting and 4.0 grains max load for a 230 grain Hornady FMJ FP at 1.2" OAL. Clays is a good powder in .45 for light target loads. Shoots soft and clean, but you need to know what you’re doing. Pressure spikes quickly with Clays and it won’t fill the case well. If you have any setback, or a double charge (easier to do with powders like Clays) you could be in for a very bad day.
Depending on where you get your brass from you may need some small pistol primers as well.
I came across a batch of 45 acp brass that was small pistol primer.
I think it came from a batch of CCI Brass 230g fmj ammo that I had shot and saved the brass to reload at a later date. If I remember I will take a picture of the two different cases and post it up here.
I don’t ever bother trimming 45 ACP brass. I just take the barrel from the pistol and use it as a case gage for the final product. Although I use LRN with 5.0 gr of W231 over large pistol primers. Still haven’t dabbled with all that stupid small primer bull shit Federal started.
Be sure to taper crimp with a Lee taper crimp die. Generally I do not have luck with seating +crimp setups. Roll crimp is for rimmed straight wall brass and taper crimp is for the rest. Just stay away from the “factory crimp” dies as they will shave your bullets upon crimping and can lead to problems (often will).
Also, buy cheaper bullets. PowderValley has Berry’s for cheap if you need plated but they also have MissouriBullet LRNs for cheap as well. Try 185 gr stuff too. Shoots flatter and you get a velocity bonus.
First of all, thanks everyone for your help. I’ve picked up a Lee reloading manual and am looking for others. I’ve also picked up the digital calipers.
Based on your advice, and some more reading on my part, it seems that basically all I have left to get are the following:
[ul]
[li]Lee carbide factory crimp die[/li][li]Cleaning brass with vinegar solution rather than tumbler[/li][li]A scale weight check set (not sure where to get this)[/li][li]Deburring tool ($3 Lee “chamfer” tool?)[/li][li]Lee Pro Auto Disk Powder Measure instead of my RCBS 505 scale?[/li][li]Lee Auto-Prime XR or Lee Safety Prime?[/li][/ul]
I’m getting excited now about finally being able to reload!