Recommendations for polishing SS revolvers

I have a bright stainless python from the early 90’s and I would like to freshen it up. I found a guy out of Florida with good reviews that will polish, but I have emailed him a couple times over the past couple years with zero response. So I am looking for a recommendation of someone you have actually used and is responsive to emails and answers their phone before I send my pony off. I am not in a rush for a turn around and want a quality job. I may send another revolver prior to this one as a test run.

Thank you

I thought polishing stainless revolvers was simple / fairly easy / low skill, but took time.

No?

Yes, I think so. I inherited a stainless j frame, disassembled and got it polished up pretty well using Autosol. It’s not professional, but very good, but I would imagine someone with proper wheel setup would do better.

Watched a few videos on it, but I would rather send it in to a pro that has the wheels and experience. I don’t have a place to do it. I pulled my cruiser into my kitchen/dinet area to do a complete strip down and detail, but those days of being “creative” with the spaces I have are behind me and would rather just hit the easy button on this one.

I would try and find someone local. Have been hearing horror stories of shipping workers taking items out of boxes while in transit and then retaping them and sending them on their way. Customer gets an empty box and shipper swears it was in there. Would hate to lose a pistol that way.

If you decide to polish the revolver yourself, I have had a great deal of success using Flitz metal polish and an old T shirt.

Aggressive polishing wheels can knock off all the sharp edges and smooth out lettering if not careful. Hand polish would be a better option for the do it yourselfer with less chance to mess it up.

Agreed. Buffers are a good way to dehorn a carry revolver, but I would not use a buffer on a showpiece. If the “gunsmith” uses valve lapping compound or another abrasive material to speed up the process, you can remove metal where you do not want it removed. If you polish the revolver yourself, you have control over what materials are used.

In the past, I always polished gunshot residue off of stainless revolvers by hand.

Anyone have a good video link to do this by hand?

I have a New model King Cobra. No hammer breakage yet but it’s happened to several.

I’m kinda hoping Colt or the aftermarket redesigns the hammer or offers a milled steel one.

It’s already smooth with some shine. But I wonder how shiny it could be.

I was asked to look at a brand-new Colt Python that had intermittent issues with the trigger becoming heavy and hammer not falling. I inspected and fired the revolver at the range when first asked. I suggested the Python be sent back to Colt for repair under warranty. The Python had just returned from Colt after warranty work. I think it’s a sharp looking revolver and hope the issue gets corrected on the 2nd trip to Colt.

Mine has around 1200-1500 through it. So far so good but I’ve read of several with issues. The internal parts are kinda light-duty looking.

I only took it out once since getting a new Ruger SP101 3in blued. The Ruger trigger isn’t nearly as smooth but I haven’t polished any internals. I only installed a 10 lb hammer spring. No problems, but I only use Federal primers.

I debate selling the King Cobra while it’s good or shooting it until it breaks, sending it in for repair, and then selling it. But I’d be annoyed if Colt charged me.

Same here