You should be good…I buy Otis kits and Slip2000 EWL, Slip2000 Carbon Killer, and Slip2000 725 De-greaser. And not to forget Bear Metal Cleaning G-Tips (better than Q tips) and lots of white undershirts.
Easier way is get a green bore snake and insert from the chamber and remove from the flashhider by pulling all the way through. Do this 4-5 times and then put some CLP on a patch and run it back and forth, repeat a few times with new patches until the patch is coming out pretty clean. Then put another dry patch on and run it back and forth to get excessive oil out of the barrel. This way you can not hurt anything.
And never do what I once did… use a brush and attempt to reverse direction mid barrel. I had a brush so stuck in a .22 rifle I was thinking it would never come out. It’s a one way street with a brush mounted on your cleaning rod.
Shang - As with most things, there are differences of opinion on this. I follow Noveske’s recommendation on removing the brush at the bore end. I used to work it both ways, but often did not use a brush at all. With today’s assortment of quick acting carbon killer products, I see no reason to be aggressive - and it’s a well known fact that improper/aggressive cleaning will reduce barrel life.
IMO, a few passes with carbon killer on patches and two to four one-way passes with a brush is plenty for that step; so removing the brush between each pass is not an issue for me. I use a stepped-down (for lack of a better term) jag that does not scrape over the crown on the back stroke, so I’m less concerned there.
I don’t use a bore snake because they get filthy and are hard to clean.
Yes on both. The 30" rod is ideal for an AR since it’s short enough that it won’t flex and long enough for a 18" barrel. Note: A 30" Dewey rod has to bottom out on my JP rod guide to make it out of the A2 FH on a 20" upper, so it could be on the short side for something with a longer flash suppressor.
I tried that a couple times and found that the clothes would have a slight hint of CLP and Hoppe’s No.9 to them for sometime afterwards.Ive complained about CLP evaporating off of weapons too soon,but man that stuff lingers in a washer.Personally it was fine for me,but I ultimately ended up replacing the washer due to highly accurate female sniping within my AO.Now I have my own washer for shop use…and yeah its funky.
So I’d keep that in mind.
As far as cleaning kit:
Dewey .22 cal coated rod.
Dewey AR15 chamber cleaning kit,which also doubles as my pistol rod.
Several bore brushes.
Tooth brush.
7/8" stencil brush for applying lube.
Various size patches 3/4"-1 3/4".
Hoppe’s No.9 for bore/chamber cleaning and as a dunkit.
Weapon Shield CLP.
And I keep a USGI sectional rod kit handy for range panics.
No, No, No, dont put the rifle in the washer Bore snacks are nice and easy. I use them often if I did not do a high round count shoot and just want to wipe it down and Snake Plissken it.