i guess the main application would be to apply 35-40 inch lbs on carrier key screws. is there a tool that can be also used for more mundane household tasks as well?
I’m curious, too.
In the meantime, I’m too cheap to spend $100+ on a good “micro-meter,” and it’s not SO hard to gauge how much I’m torquing screws using an L-shaped hex wrench or even a screwdriver.
It’s simple math: if you want 30-40 inch-pounds, then put 10-12 pounds of force on a 3-4" hex wrench.
Bimmer
ah, just wanted to ask around before splurging on a $150 set from Brownell’s.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=718023
Wheeler Eng. FAT Wrench.
Hopefully it’s a good product; I have one that I have yet to use because I’m too busy to do the things that require it. But I read good reviews all over so I ponied up for it.
Some of the reviews on Midway call the FAT wrench junk, so I struck it from my shopping list.
Plato, please let us know how this works out. If this things works for $50, then I’ll probably get one.
Bimmer
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Just get on the MSC, Grainger, or McMaster-Carr industrial supply websites and search for what you want.
I bought a Proto 1/4" drive torque screwdriver that goes from 6 in-lb to 36 in-lb. It’s great for things like backup sights, scope rings and bases, action screws on bolt rifles, and other applications. It wasn’t cheap, but it a real precision tool, and not a cheap POS like the FAT screwdriver.
Sooner or later I’ll get a torque wrench for the bigger stuff like AR barrels, flash hiders, and buffer tubes.
Good torque tools are going to cost $100-$200. But like anything, if you buy a good one, you’ll only need to buy it once.
Yes, for big stuff, a big 1/2" torque wrench is really necessary. Get a “click” type (the kinds with the needle and gauge are impossible). They’re $50 or so at Sears, I think.
Bimmer
Look for a used Snap-On on either ebay or Craigslist.
Snap-On. I went the Ebay route as suggested already.
Checkout Harbor Frieght - Unless you are using it for exact precision production
work a torque wrench you find there will work just fine. No need to spend that kind of coin on a tool you will you on a limited bases. My 2 cents.
One thing that I never see people mention is that when you put an extension (crowsfoot/ barrel nut wrench) on the torque wrench you change the torque value.
You are in fact over-torquing
We had to account for this in the Navy when torquing jam nuts, rod ends on aircraft jobs.
So if you truly want to be “in spec” the equation goes like this:
ACTUAL torque being applied = INDICATED torque x (WRENCH LENGTH from socket drive to middle of handle + EXT. LENGTH crowsfoot etc) / WRENCH LENGTH from socket drive to middle of handle
ACTUAL = INDICATED x (WRENCH LENGTH + EXT. LENGTH) / WRENCH LENGTH
+1.
i have two craftsman click-type torgue wrenches (one big one and one small one) that i have used and abused for years and they just keep on clickin’. 
All Ive ever had was Snap On torque wrenches.They hold true for long periods if treated well,and well worth the money if you have more than one use for them.But Im also work in the motorcycle industry and use the wrenches daily,so its worth the expense to me.
For those wanting a cheaper option I would certainly take a look at the Craftsman line.Anything cheaper is a waste of money IMHO.
We go to great lengths to insure that we purchase quality weapons as the best “tools” for a given job, the same applies for what we work on them with. I agree with the Snap-On recommendation, but I’d find a local guy with a truck and work with him. There are a few reasons to do this but one of the best is free life-time calibrations for your tools, including torque wrenches.
I believe the military manual takes into account the offset of the mil-spec barrel wrench when stating torque values.
Well the “Military Manuals”(pubs) for maintenance on an F/A-18C does not. Unless it specifically states that it is accounted for, then I would adjust accordingly.
If it is accounted for, then one would need to figure out the torque minus the length of the “mil spec” tool, then re-apply with which ever length tool you are using.
Barrel Nut - 30 Ft. lbs. Minimum, not to exceed 80 Ft. Lbs. to align the next slot in the barrel nut.
With a 10" torque wrench and the barrel nut wrench that I use which is 1.5" an indicated torque of 30ft lbs will actually be 34.5ft lbs.
No biggie right?
Well if you need to get closer to 80ft lbs to align the nut for the gas tube you would now be at 92ft lbs. If your barrel nut wrench was 2" you’d be at 96ft lbs. 2.5"=100ft lbs, 3"=104ft lbs.
MilitaryMoron has a test on his site conducted my Vltor, where at around 110ft lbs, “Removal of the barrel nut showed that the barrel index pin had been partially sheared, and that the indexing slot in the upper receiver was permanently deformed.”
Food for thought.
Also want to add that it goes the other way as well.
We used “cheater bars” to aid in breaking loose nuts all the time. When you add length to your torque wrench to apply torque your actual torque drops.
That 10" torque wrench and 1.5" barrel nut wrench set at 30ft lbs would be 34.5ft lb actual , when I add a 24" extension it drops the actual down to 31ft lbs.
Nothing to be alarmed with as you’re still above the 30ft lb minimum, just something else to be aware of.
xxxxx
Thanks for looking it up.
Who needs a torque wrench anyway? Doesn’t everyone just use German torque?