Receiver extension and loctite. I know better now.

This was the first lower I assembled before I started coming here and I used blue loctite when I put on the castle nut. I went to take it off last night and it was stuck of course. In getting it off with a little heat from a propane torch the threads galled a bit. They aren’t bad but the threads aren’t sharp anymore…more flat on top now. The nut still threads on and is not binding and the crappy threads don’t go into the lower receiver threads themself so should I use the buffer or junk it?

I ordered the Starrett automatic center punch so I can do it right and have moly lube (it’s Bel-Ray Assemblers Lube that supposedly doesn’t have graphite and is used all the time between aluminum frames and steel bolts) and read the tutorial here so I can hopefully stake it right this time. The other question I have is do I lube the threads that the castle nut will go on as well or just so far as what will go into the lower receiver? Sorry for all the newbie questions but that is what I am and I didn’t see it specified in this thread:
http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=3609&highlight=castle+grease

or in the Tech Manual which says “Lubricate threads of lower receiver (5.1) and lower receiver extension (5.2) with molybdenum disulfide grease (item 19, app D) before reassembly.”

I prefer to put the moly between the RE and the lower as well as between the RE and the nut, but frankly I do it all the time without either one.

I think a new CMT 1.14" RE is something like $40, and for that price I’d swap the part out if you think the threads have been damaged. It’s all about peace of mind, and if you think the rifle may be sub-par you’ll never have peace of mind.

Thanks Rob. I’m kind of OCD about things and it would bug me to not have it right. My friend said he would buy this one from me for $15 for a dedicate 22lr AR-15 he is building. I will just buy a new one and make it right since this is going to be my go to gun for range use as well as HD.

It also concerned me that with a little pressure applied to the ModStock I could turn the RE about a 1/16th of a turn even though the nut was tight. I am fairly new to AR’s so I don’t know if this should happen or not? The nut wasn’t turning it almost looked like the RE was somehow. I think that the key in the receiver plate was turning in the groove in the RE as I messed up the threads a little bit too as well when I was removing the nut.

I bought a lower receiver block so that I can have both hands free when messing with it this time as well as the Brownells Buttstock Tool instead of the stamped one so that I can torque it to the correct in/lbs. Hopefully this time I get it right.

Your RE really shouldn’t move that much when torqued down and staked. The key on the endplate should keep the RE in place. Just chuck it and get a new one and end plate if you’re as OCD as you appear. It’ll never sit right with you if you don’t. They aren’t too spendy and will be worth the peace of mind.

Just my opinion, but I prefer not to use lube on those threads, mostly because I hate the smell of the stuff and it’s right in your face when you’re on the sites. With the tiny amount of torque you’re putting on the RE, you shouldn’t have much of a problem with galling, so I just skip the moly. I also find that the spec for the torque is pretty useless, it’s little more than finger tight plus a bump of the castle nut wrench. I don’t give it blue star torque, though. It doesn’t take much.

oops, I missed the part where you said you were getting rid of the receiver. Probably a good move for peace of mind.

I did order a full RE kit. I ended going with Orion Tactical Gear as they were the only ones that had anything in stock. I got the CMT Stock Kit as it was only $10 more than just the RE alone and got another buffer, castle nut, end plate, and spring. It is a 6 position vs the 5 position of the Vltor so I hope it works with the ModStock as well but from what I read and common sense it should? I also got a 3 pack of MagPul followers so I got free shipping. They have a good rating on TOS so we’ll see how it goes. I hope I get my stuff :fingerscrossed:

http://www.oriontacticalgear.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=161

Do you have a good source for moly grease, I have been looking for some. Thanks.

I got mine from Bushmaster

It’s literally enough to do hundreds of barrels.

Thanks Rob.