Is there any disadvantage to reaming vs swagging crimped brass. It looks like reaming is faster when set up in a drill press and cheaper(provided you already own a drill press). I have also read that simply beveling the primer pocket works as well. I know there is a lot of posts on this but just checking to see want the most current accepted practice is.
Thanks
Swaging is probably “the best”, but in my experience reaming works quite effectively. I use the Hornady tool which controls the depth of the reamer so you don’t overdo it. I’ve never lost a primer, so in my experience, reaming, when properly performed, ensures adequate grip on the primer. I can’t envision any other requirement than that. Basically open it up enough to accept a new primer, but keep it tight enough to hold it.
Either way is a PITA!! And surely you aren’t actually reaming the pocket; all you need to do is remove the crimp.
jmart mentioned it and I was interested in trying the Hornady reamer. I haven’t looked at one up close but I can’t imagine it cuts aggressively. That’s why I am soliciting feedback from the forum to see what works and what doesn’t.
Gotta ditto the sucking part. I use a RCBS time mate with the reamer. I also mark all my brass wirh a sharpie (band or ring) around the case head so I can identify what brass I have already done versus what I may whore at the range.
I like reaming over swaging in my Dillon 1050 - different brands of brass requires tweaking to get it right and you don’t find out there is a problem until you are loading. . Under swage and you may get high primers. Over do it and a primer will fall out at the worst time causing a catastrophic failure. (AMHIK - it happened to me twice in 3-Gun matches).
If you are getting high primers you may also need to uniform the primer pocket. it’s just about a must for IMI brass. The K&M reamer I use comes already setup for use in an elec screwdriver, and it works just right every time: http://www.precisionreloading.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PRE&Product_Code=KMCS122&Category_Code=PRIME_POCK_CORR_KM
but in a drill attached to reloading desk
I thought the 1050 takes care of crimped primers? I’m looking to buy one for this reason alone. Why don’t you like it?
I personally just swage on my 1050, but he mentioned some of the issues he has. I figured out that one sort of brass (which I forget off hand) was not swaging correctly on my 1050 [all the rest was OK] so I sorted that one brand of brass out of my stash. I was getting high primers only on that one brand.
I’m in the process of building a jug for my drill press. Going to hold the case on the press table, and put the reamer in the chuck. I pinched a nerve or something the last session of reaming. Right index finger is still tingly/numb from holding the cases tight enough not to spin on the trim mate.
Although expensive I really like the Dillion Super Dooper Mighty Powerful Swager. I can adjust it for just exactly the right amount of swage. The main down side it is more involved to change from small primer to large primer pocket than other methods. But it is very fast to put a case on the stem and flip it down, push the handle down, then up and remove case and repeat. And it is so over-built that I am sure my great-great-grandkids will enjoy using it someday.
I have a Wilson pocket reamer for my case trimmer lathe but it is slower to use than the Dillon, but extremely precise. A press mounted swager might be very fast to operate and switch sizes, but I have not tried them yet.
i use the RCBS swage dies in my old Lee C-press. They work pretty well. I also hand prime, so i can generally tell if things are about to go pear shaped on me.
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I used the RCBS deburring tool for quite a while. It removes the crimp just fine and you can chuck it into a drill. I just got in 1K of crimped Speer brass and the deburring tool wasn’t getting it done anymore, probably wore out.
I went to Home Depot and picked up a 5/8 counter sink bit for $8. It’s the perfect size. I chucked it up in my rechargeable drill and give each case a three second cut. Works just fine.
So used properly this will remove just the crimp?
When used properly, yes.
I prefer the super swage…
Get the right tool for the job to remove the crimp - they are not expensive. Get a handle and do it by hand, chuck it in a drill press, or you can even use a variable speed drill - just figure out a way to mount it for hands free use. They bottom-out in the primer pocket so you don’t remove any excess material.
Lyman makes a reamer with a handle for $10. I chuck it into my drill for high volume work.
I’ve made a ton of ammo using the deburring tool, and if you are consistant, it works very well.