Quick Guide: "This is my Glock 19. There are many like it, but this one is mine"

I wrote this documentation of this particular G19 as a guide/inspiration for ideas for those who are thinking about taking the plunge on modifying their Glocks. This isn’t a tutorial, but a description of different modifications and changes done to the gun. If you’re not comfortable about doing it, there are many talented guys who do this work. A lot of the frame alteration features covered below are also “options” from the pros that do this for a living (boresight, bowie, robar, etc). I also included my reasoning behind what I have done with each modification (or ‘options’ that would be available from gunsmiths who perform these services) so the reader can decide on their own if they see value/need in them when they start modifying their gun.
All of the modification were done by myself.

Before:

After:

Test fired on February 2009, it’s one of the limited exported model with Austrian proof marks (NPv and Austrian eagle). Some Glock purist cringed at what I’ve done to it, but I could care less. I bought this gun to use, not to sit and a safe. Glocks are still Tupperware guns that are meant to be used.

This G19 was bought with the purpose of fulfilling the multiple purposes of CCW and competition use. I use USPSA/IDPA for learning/training purposes and also as testing grounds on what works/doesn’t work for me (gear and techniques). From shooting my G19 over the years, I have grown to appreciate the simple design and reliability (perks of an older Gen 3 gun), but also come to know what I really hated, namely the ergonomics. The result is a gun that has evolved in the last couple of years with changes that fit my specific requirements.

  1. Functionality and reliability of the G19 must not be compromised.
  2. Must be ‘comfortable’ to shoot under high round count sessions (texture)
  3. Work well in both the CCW role and range use (either practice, or USPSA/IDPA). I want to use the same gun/platform for all my shooting : it’s all about consistency and proficiency

Parts:
The internal parts of the gun are all stock (disconnector, etc), with the exception of a Wolff striker spring (a modified 6lb spring lightened to 5lb). The pull is comparable to the original spring, but slightly lighter (½ lb). To ensure reliability of ignition of rounds, lots of various 9mm were shot, including brands with harder military primers. As of today, no failure with ignition yet.

The stock Glock sights were the variety of having the steel front sight, and polymer rear. These were replaced with the Amerigo Classics night sights. I chose these because of price (bought these at a sale for under $60, and the dimensions of these sights are very close to the stock sights I was used to. I did fill in the white rings in the rear sights with black because sight picture was too busy. Ameriglo sells sights with the blacked out rear under the “operator” models.

I experimented with the OEM extended Glock slide release, but took it off after the slide was locking back midway through a magazine. My support palm was bumping against it during firing; it was time to toss it. The stock/flat one went back on, as they work exceptionally well for me. I’ve contemplated trying the Vicker’s slide release, but because it still angles out slightly at the top… the problem of premature slide lock might be an issue for me.
Trigger bar was swapped from a G19 to a smooth-faced G17 bar, as I didn’t like the serrated texture on the G19 trigger face. The contact points have been thoroughly and carefully polished (as with other parts that work with the trigger bar).
Certain springs were replaced after a couple thousand rounds as preventive maintenance.

Frame/Ergonomics:
Grip reduction: removal of the lower hump on the back of frame and finger grooves on front to give it a straighter angle. This makes the gun point ‘better’ in my opinion. Trigger guard was also thinned and de-horned to allow for a higher grip, and to make reholstering a little easier. The area on the frame just above and behind the trigger was also radiused for better placement of the trigger finger (as the grip is higher on the gun now).

A beveled mag well/ funnel was created from the material used to fill the backstrap of the frame during the reduction process.

I have played around with the standard and extended OEM Glock mag release. I have a few spare (standard and Glock extended) releases, as they are $2 a piece. The OEM extended release sucks, sticks far too out and the edges are sharp as hell. The standard releases are bit short, so I’d had to shift my grip to release my mag. Instead of buying the Vicker’s release, I went ahead and worked with what I had. I didn’t want a release that stuck too far out, as this was also my CCW piece, so the release had to be ‘snag free’ so I don’t lose a magazine when carrying. The requirement was simple; I need something that was barely longer than the stock mag release (after trying the Vicker’s on someone else’s glock, it was still too long) so I can drop the mag without shifting my grip. I created a bevel around the release itself so the thumb can access it easier. I also shortened the release and radiused the front edge and corners and polished the surface. While the concept is fairly straight forth, this was a slow process that wasn’t the most precise…but the combination works effectively for my hand dimensions.

Modified one on left, stock Glock extended on right.

The standard extended mag release, note how much it sticks out:

My modified extended mag release, note how the front edge is radiused and rounded

Note the relief cuts above the trigger guard for trigger finger placement, and the beveled area around the mag release.

Lastly, one of the more important modifications done was the texturing. The stippling pattern is pretty consistent throughout the frame…and the pattern wasn’t done on the first attempt. I stippled the frame a few times until I found the happy medium that I wanted. The texture is relatively fine, as it won’t tear clothing or my hand, yet it is enough to “grip” onto when shooting in extended periods w/o tearing the skin. The combination of the grip angle/shape and texture makes for a consistent grip every time the gun is drawn.


I have had others ask me about the reliability of the frame after doing a reduction. I performed the reduction back in October 2010 (last year). I have had about 2,500+ rounds since then (with some +P NATO ball in there), and the there has been no cracking or visible fatigue of the frame or on the filling material used.

If there are any questions, feel free to ask.

Nice job the pistol turned out great. I actually just finished doing about ninety % of those mods to my own glock 19. Unfortunately I ended up biting into the back strap a little too far, then I found out that marine Epoxy dose not stipple…at all. Anyway I was wandering what you used to get your border with? And what tip you used? I tried duct tape on mine, needless to say it didn’t turn out well lol. I was told later on the masking tape worked well but I haven’t tried it yet.

Very well said and done write up!

Very nicely done!

Excellant write up, great job. I have done almost the exact same mods to my 19 and am very pleased with how much better it points for me.

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Yea…the key is not to grind it down to the epoxy if you plan on stippling the material. If you did, all is not lost…you can still texture the epoxy with some jeweler’s files (pointy edges).
As for the bordering, I started by “stippling” the border with small/shallow dots with the pointy tip of a soldering iron. Once the outline was finished, I used the flat head (like a minus screwdriver head) that was included in my soldering iron to engrave the lines.

Looks great. Has there ever been any documented cases where the grip reduction would lead to frame cracking or failing?

Nice Job!

C4

I too prefer the non finger groove frame shape. Looks perfect.

Thanks for the info,my kit did not include a flat head type bit but I’m going to look into getting one. My plane to fix the problem with the back strap area is to use some of that liquid rubber in a can just to get some texture. And if that doesn’t work I will try my hand at applying some type of checkering. Thanks again.

Exceptionally work.

To each his own.

Nice work. I agree that it is what suites your “needs” and it is made to use not collect dust.

Exactly. This is just a single data point from one guy to help those in the decision making process…and it should be taken with a grain of salt as it’s mostly personal preferences.

I’m in the process of modifying/resculpting one of my spare slide releases (stock dimensions) to something similar to the Vickers one with the large exception that it won’t stick out as much and potentially cause premature lock back when shooting (support palm issue). I’ll post more on it later as this progresses.

Clean execution of well thought out concepts!

Am particularly interested in your slide release mod because the same has crossed my mind also. I realize the Vickers is available but I am a tinkerer too and I have a few spare slide releases gathering dust.

Very well done. I have been very satisfied with just throwing some 3M grip tape on my grips but your mods look very slick. I don’t have the balls to do that to my own G19 but maybe when I get #2 that’ll happen.

Nice work Kilo. I like the relieved area above the trigger. I may need to try something like that in the future. Care to reveal your technique on creating the border around your stippling (under the slide release)?

Nice write up. It looks like you did a fine job.

Thanks again for the feedback guys.

Thanks. Relieving the area above the trigger group isn’t as critical as relieving the trigger guard first (and thinning it)…so only do it if you feel there’s a need to do so.

As for the bordering, I already stated above how I did it.

“As for the bordering, I started by “stippling” the border with small/shallow dots with the pointy tip of a soldering iron. Once the outline was finished, I used the flat head (like a minus screwdriver head) that was included in my soldering iron to engrave the lines.”