Just got back from the range. I have a slight concern and am wondering if this happens to you gentleman after firing your airweights too. This is the second range session for me, with a brand new 442. I have fired a total of 300 rounds in 2 days. Each session being 150 rounds. 100 rounds of Magtech 158 gr, and 50 rounds of Hornady 125 per session. The Magtechs are fairly warm for a non plus P load it seems. Anyway!
Nearing round 80, I’m not sure if my finger is just getting fatigued, or if its the gun. At the very end of the triggers travel, it seems to stick right before it breaks. Both sessions it didn’t start doing this until around 80-90 rounds. I’m thinking that my trigger finger may just be getting fatigued, but is there anything that could be wrong? Internally? After coming home and cleaning, both days, I dry fired about 30 times and could not make the “sticking” happen again.
I have certainly never experienced that after owning quite a few J-frames. Did it not fire? Did the cylinder move to the next round when you pulled the trigger again?
I did have a Scandium .357 that would sort of do what you are describing, but it would actually fully lock up. I sold it!
When the J Frame trigger pull gets heavy at the end of the travel, have you tried unloading it and dry firing it dirty? If it dry fires easily when dirty, the cartridges may not be seating all the way forward in the cylinder. Brass dragging on the recoil shield will exhibit the symptoms you describe.
At times a run of factory .38 Special ammunition will have thicker case heads. When the revolver gets a little dirty, it will cause cylinder rotation issues. On a rare occasion it can occur when the cylinder gets warm on a clean wheel gun.
Mr. Bell, you’re the man for your “Project Break My J-Frame” thread. Thanks for that. Yeah it fired, after I opened up the cylinder and re-indexed it.
Mr. T2C wow, Thanks for your words. Yeah, I snapped it a few times dirty, and it did indeed dry fire easily. Your insight may be what is causing my issue. I’m not sure if this means anything, but my 442 is the version that has the moon clip cut out in the cylinder. I did all my firing without the moon clips. Have not tried them yet.
The thing about it, is both times it didn’t start exhibiting this issue until roughly 80-90 rounds were fired. As stated above, it felt like I couldn’t get the trigger to break, it just stuck. So I’m not sure if it was me, the gun, or a combination of the two.
I have to also add that after 70 rounds my hand was getting shaky and tired. I should have stopped there, but I was trying to push the gun a little hard, I plan on relying on it. After that 150 was through, I was DONE.
I have experienced finger fatigue where after a full box of ammo or so I’d get to the point where I’d fail to pull the trigger to the rear enough to fire and think it was binding. It turns out my hand was just tired and I wasn’t pulling the trigger back far enough after 50 rounds or so. That heavy trigger pull requires you to really want to fire the gun.
The more you shoot, the more tired you become if you are applying yourself. The number of rounds you fire before experiencing fatigue varies depending on experience.
I beat the daylights out of my J Frames. I fired another 300 rounds through my BG38 J Frame on Friday. I fired 100 rounds through one of my 1911’s before breaking out the J Frame. You may notice a small decline in performance and accuracy when fatigue starts to set in. When you start to get tired, bear down and focus.
Yes Doc Glockster, I’m starting to think that’s all it was with my situation. Pure hand fatigue. When I went to the range the first two times, I told myself I wasn’t going to leave until all 150 rounds were sent through the gun. By the time I hit round 80/90 I was feeling it. That trigger just didn’t feel as easy to actuate anymore.
T2C
That’s quite a feat. Did you fire all 300 in one session? Also, how does recoil compare between the BG and the aluminum versions? Would you recommend the BG? I’m thinking of getting one later this summer just for the hell of it. One reason is the lack of a cylinder release on the side of the frame. Won’t beat the crap out my hand.
I’m telling you, by the time I got to 150 through the 442, my thumb and trigger finger knuckles were bleeding, the web of my hand was missing skin, and the pad of my trigger finger had a weeping blister. The next day at work, I was feeling it for sure.
Yes, I fired 300 rounds of .38 Special, 100 rounds of .45ACP 230g ball and 70 rounds of .380 Auto in one session. I don’t get to the range as often as I like and have to get more work in at each session.
My other J Frames bloody my right thumb after about 150 rounds and I usually keep going for another 50 to 100 rounds. If I see a student with a J Frame in a CCW class, I recommend they place a Bandaid on their firing hand thumb over the knuckle. I normally have them shoot 200 rounds during the live fire session and it’s more comfortable for them to apply the Bandaid before shooting instead of afterwards.
The BG38 felt recoil is slightly lighter than with other light weight J Frames and it does not tear up the thumb due to the location of the cylinder release. It will callous your hand though.
I would borrow or rent a BG38 and fire it before replacing a 442. The 442 is a fine revolver.
Found some minor wear marks near the cylinder lock, contacted S&W, concerned the cylinder was contacting the frame during recoil.
They say that the airweight frames flex enough, to where the cylinder will contact the frame upon recoil. Does anybody else have these marks near their cylinder lock? Its insane for me to think the frames flex enough… But it’s supposedly so.
On my last required qualification, I shot 100 rds 380; 100 rds 9mm and 100 rds .45. All were ball ammo. Seems the more I shot, the tighter grouping placement in center mass became. I guess I just had to get warmed up a bit. The .380 was a S&W bodyguard; 9mm a Sig Saur P290rs in 9mm and he .45 was my favorite, an HK Compact.
Unable to upload pics unfortunately. I keep getting a “Over the KB quota” type prompt. Not sure what to do.
Basically, both in front of, and behind my cylinder lock, there are very minor scuff marks. The only thing that could have caused this, is if the cylinder bottomed out during recoil, and struck the frame.
Smith & Wesson confirmed this via email, stating that “It is normal wear marks on the frame of that model. The frame will have flex being an aluminum airweight model and the cylinder will rub there”
For that reason, I have my gunsmith polish the lower edges and corners of the cylinder release on my 642. It doesn’t cut me anymore, it just knock on my knuckle every now and then.
You are a serious shooter. I shoot 50 round max. at any given practice session with the 642. I’m a wimp.
