I haven’t had any problems shooting Wolf through my CMMG, but haven’t really run it hard yet (through a class, for example) so it’s still un-proven to me.
Any reason not to ream a chamber if it needs it?
Of course it would depend upon how out-of-spec your chamber is, but exactly how much material is removed by a reaming?
I’m guessing that reaming the chamber would remove the chrome-lining, but having a true 5.56 chamber is probably more important than having a chamber that’s too tight, but chrome-lined.
Just looking for some clarification / further explanation for my own personal edumacation.
http://www.m-guns.com/tools.php Take a look at that page Ned also sells a gauge if you need see if you have a 5.56 chamber.
Its mostly if you shoot 5.56 spec ammo seems to some advantage also if you shoot wolf.
I am no expert Iam sure some one will explain it better than I can.
In the past, I’ve recommended pre-emptively reaming chambers in those other than known-good, to help ensure function with 5.56 and other quirkier ammo.
Now that we have Ned’s excellent 5.56mm chamber gauge, use that instead. If it passes the gauge, GTG. If not, ream it.
What about stainless Noveske barrels? Do I just ASSume that the chamber in my Infidel barrel is correct, or do i ream it to ASSure that it’s correct? isn’t my chamber different than the reamers that are available?
I got hammered a few years ago over on ARFCOM for giving my opinion on this very subject…but here’s my opinion anyway.
As someone who has suffered from chronic tight chambers in Armalites years ago,I can tell you if its a problem you will see it in short order.
One little redneck test I learned along the way is to take a round of 5.56 NATO,or even better a round of Wolf and mark the bullet with a sharpie marker from the case neck to the ogive.I do this on my old Armalites everytime I change brands of ammo.
(In my experience the Wolf ammo is loaded to the long end of the spec and the OAL varies from cartridge to cartridge.This was also confirmed in an email from Wolf stating that they load to the high end of the spec. and it may cause issues with tight chambers.)
Anyway,remove the upper from the lower and the BCG.Then drop the sharpie colored round into the chamber.Then take your finger and give it a light push into the chamber. Turn the upper muzzle up…if the round drops out thats a decent sign.If not take your cleaning rod and knock it out from the muzzle.
Take a look and the bullet and see if the ink is missing in spots or all the way around.If it is you more than likely have a tight .223 chamber and the bullet is being forced into the leade and or rifling.Which will lead to popped primers,stuck cases and all kinds of pressure signs.
As far as reaming the chamber that are unknown for sure or are questionable…IMHO if the upper runs well with the majority of ammo I would not worry too much about it unless you plan to use it as a fighting weapon,or plan to run it hard.
I certainly would not base anything about the upper while using Wolf as a standard.
As a side note I have an older Armalite M15A2NM that has a rather tight match chamber that has given me fits with different brands of NATO spec ammo…which caused me to use nothing but high quality .223 Rem spec ammo.
I talked with gotm4 sometime back about him reaming it to 5.56 NATO.
After some thinking on the subject,and considering the fact that it drives nails with Black Hills .223 Rem,and that its mainly used for serious target work…I decided to leave it alone and buy a different upper to use for fodder play.
Now,Im not trying to knock Wolf ammo as I use alot of it for light training and playing since its priced well for that.But is not true spec ammo,nasty burning and certainly underpowered.Which is enough in most cases to cause even the best made in spec rifle to choke at times.
Another thing about using Wolf is to make sure to clean the weapon frequently even if you do have a true 5.56 NATO chamber.I personally clean the chamber with a USGI chamber brush soaked with CLP and punch the bore at least every couple hundred rounds.I also try and keep an eye on the carbon in the carrier and on the bolt tail.
Keeping the gas rings lubed well helps too.And dont forget to wipe the upper out every chance you get.
If you do not do this expect a stuck case or gritty weapon shortly.
ETA
IMHO if you plan to use the weapon for serious training,defense or as a professional LEO etc…then I would train with the ammo I plan to use in those drastic situations etc…
