Well I guess I don’t know my own strength but I somehow pulled the rear takedown pin all the way out!!! The detent pin was still in and didn’t go flying into no man’s land. That is, until I was messing with it and then it came out (talk about hunting for a needle in a haystack).
I was actually trying to figure out how to get the detent pin back in and also the takedown pin WITHOUT having to loosen the staked castle nut and back plate.
I did manage to get the detent back in several times (and have it pop out several times) but couldn’t figure out how to get the takedown pin back in with the detent pin in the channel like it’s supposed to be.
I decided to go ahead and buy a castle nut wrench and remove it and install the rear takedown pin (and spring and detent) the normal way but then my stubborn streak reared it’s ugly head :fie:
I managed to get the detent back in then used an eyeglass screw driver to push it all the way back into the receiver…while it was pressed in I inserted a CHOPSTICK through the back hole into the hole with the detent and once the chopstick was in I pulled out the screw driver. So now I have the detent pushed in most of the way and the chopstick inserted. Next I pushed the chopstick so that the detent was once again all the way in and placed my rear takedown pin flush with the chopstick (with the channel NOT towards the detent) and moved them TOGETHER AT THE SAME time until my rear takedown pin was in and the chopstick was out. Next I turned my takedown pin until the detent clicked into place …SUCCESS, and I avoided having to remove the staked castle nut. I do believe I can do this again if need be (hardest part may have been to get in the detent again, it’s so very small and slippery).
Some may ask why I just didn’t do it the normal way to begin with. Well, first, I’d have to buy a castle nut wrench, probably a vice or something to hold the receiver, I didn’t really want to break free the “pinned” castle nut and have to re-do that…and I was just being stubborn in thinking that there had to be another way to get that darn detent and pin back in!!! Plus the more I take apart and try to “fix” the more I sometimes mess something else up…LOL
I actually sort of got the idea from a video where they were replacing the rear takedown pin without removing the castle nut…but in their scenario, the takedown pin was still installed so it was pretty easy to do. I guess in the end, the only thing I did different is use a smaller diameter rod (my chopstick) so it would fit in with the screwdriver yet still be able to push the detent in all the way and then slide out when I tried re-inserting the takedown pin. So I certainly don’t take any credit for the “methodology”, I’m just glad I got it to work the way it did.
So, this has been a learning experience for me. And you can be sure I’ll NEVER pull that pin all the way out again!!! :eek:
Ended on a high note as I successfully installed a new safety without any incidents.
I would still be worried why it came out in the first place. I can’t see how it would come out without damaging something (shearing the pin, or openening up hole in receiver).
Seems to be in there really good but next time I have a reason to remove the castle nut I’ll take a look at everything. It’s just a range gun and the pin seems to be functioning properly now. If anything, I think the detent pin looked a little small to me so I’ll probably replace it at some point in time (and I’ll look at the hole in the receiver).
Detents are also brass & takedown & pivot pins are hardened steel. Enough force will mash the detent. However, if it’s still stuck, I suspect the gentleman who noted it may not have been assembled correctly is right.
The yellow ones are plated/coated steel like “titanium” drill bits. I’m pretty sure the silver ones are stainless. I tried to find a link but my google-fu is weak this morning.
I believe Colt and BCM detents are mil spec cadmium plated. Not sure what type of metal the detents are. I’m fairly certain their 17-4 springs are cadmium plated as well to prevent corrosion.
I’ve had a couple wear down over the years (safety detent) and simply replaced them with Colt detents.
I replaced the horrific take down pins on a HK MR556 without removing the end plate or castle nut.
I have found that a dental pick and a spare take down pin make it pretty easy. Once I’ve removed the old pin using the dental pick to push the detent into the receiver, I hold the spring and detent into the cavity using a small screw driver (or chopstick), and press the spare takedown pin in the hole from the wrong direction (taking care that the slot in the take down pin will not line up with the detent)… that holds everything in place. Next, I pushed the new take down pin in from the correct direction, taking care to make sure the detent pin track was pointed the correct direction, and push out the other pin. I rotate the new pin to make sure the detent is in the track, and drive on.
Uh no. They are made from steel (I think it’s 1215L) which is why they are magnetic and are then yellow zinc or cadmium plated. Some companies use stainless steel.
A “trick” I was shown back in 80s use M60 (30 cal.) Cleaning rod section for that and pivot pin too. If you don’t have the pivot pin tool… Pivot pin will still be a P.I.A. Have done that in field to replace broken pivot pin a time or 2. Someone drops lower just wrong on concrete floor with pin sticking out of lower receiver, snap go’s the pin (note only seen happen to M16a2’s)
OP - If no spare takedown/pivot pin to be had, use a 1/4" clevis pin that can be purchased from just about any hardware store. Just make sure it is long enough. Works like a charm on the pivot pin assembly, too, when building lowers.
