I will be installing a SureFire muzzle brake on my Colt LE 6920. Is there a special wrench for taking off the stock flash suppressor and tightening the SureFire muzzle brake. Is there a required torque for the new SureFire muzzle brake?
Your best option is a Hammerhead rifle tool. If you use a wrench (unless it is thin walled) you will damage the crush washer.
As for the torque you need to read the instructions for whatever Surefire recommends. I believe that they use shims and you will need to make sure to clean the threads to apply the Rocksett.
The other main thing is to use a hold the barrel in a barrel vice.
Holding the receiver and cranking on the flash hider can and does mess things up.
I don’t have these tools, so I think the safest bet is take it to a good gunsmith and have him put it on. I don’t want to screw-up my new Colt.
Thanks for the replies.
Impossible with most free float rails. At the 15-20 ft lbs of torque it takes to secure a flash hider you will not damage a receiver held in a clam shell or other type receiver block. If you properly torque to the 15-20 ft lbs you don’t need rocksett. If you are using a suppressor torque to 25-30 max with a couple drops of rocksett.
The tool you need is an armorers wrench.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/762854/dpms-mil-spec-armorers-barrel-wrench-ar-15-steel
They are cheap enough everyone should have one. Or buy the multi tool.
Torque Values:
Compensator (Flash Suppressor) - 15 to 20 Ft. Lbs.
Barrel Nut - 30 Ft. lbs. Minimum, not to exceed 80 Ft. Lbs. to align the next slot in the barrel nut.
Carrier Key Screws - 35 INCH pounds to 40 INCH pounds.
Lower Receiver Extension (Buffer Tube)
Rifle - 35 to 39 Ft. Lbs.
Carbine - Tighten the locking nut to 40 INCH pounds plus or minus 2 INCH pounds.
Just curious because I’ve only ever removed comp’s to install new ones which came with new washers… How would a wrench damage the crush washer?
Yea and that’s a royal PITA, the shims are marked with various colors that rub off while handling.
OP, if you end up doing it yourself, acetone is a great cleaner for the threads. Test fit using the chamfered washer + shims before applying rocksett. SFs timing wheel chart can make your guesses educated in terms of what shims to use.
How would a wrench damage the crush washer?
You notice he said “thin walled” right? A too thick wrench will engage the flats and be too wide for the flats…which damages the crush washer.
A standard open end wrench is too thick and as you torque it down it presses against the crush washer.
Carbine receiver extension should be torqued to 40 FOOT pounds, not 40 INCH pounds. The confusion comes from a typo in the 23 & P that went uncorrected for years and transfered into a lot of other documents.
The “thin wall” wrench IG is referring to is a tappet wrench (left). A standard wrench is shown next to it for comparison (right)
When the crush washer compresses, it gets larger in diameter and will interfere with a standard wrench because there is not much room on the wrenching flat of an A2 or a Battlecomp . The Battlecomp in the photo was installed using a standard wrench and you can see the shiny spot where the crush washer was damaged. Afterwards, I got a set of tappet wrenches and replaced the damaged crush washer
Per the latest TM (November 2008) the torque value for the bolt carrier key screws is 50-58 inch/lbs.
If you wish to torque your device. Standard open end is not the best anyway. Crow foot wrenches work well and allow you to use a torque wrench.
Mine seem to be thin enough and if your’s (or your open end) is not, you can take a grinder to it ALA my 1-1/16" Noveske NSR barrel nut tool (shown next to the flash suppressor crow foot).
Jt
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Hammerhead Tool works well. The main thing is you need to have it in a vice or have a buddy hold onto the upper (and I mean hold !!!) and do it that way. I’ve used various wrenches, screwdrivers through the FH slots, and just about anything you can imagine… without a proper tool and vice/hold it’s a very slippery slope and you should be careful not to cant the barrel or break it free from the receiver. There’s also a higher chance of cross threading and/or stripping if you’re not doing it properly
Hmm… Alright heh… I guess I just don’t see how someone would apply force to a round surface with a wrench and be able to damage it…
Guess I’ll be sure not to bust out a gripping pipe wrench or anything lol.
Because the width of the wrench is greater than the width of the wrenching flat of the A2. As the crush washer is compressed, it gets wider until it makes contact with the wrench. Try it for yourself and you will see what happens
Yeah, I do see what y’all are saying now.
I wasn’t really thinking about the washer expanding into the wrench probably forcing it to oval.
Looks like y’all just expanded my knowledge on a subject.
Anyone just use the rockset and not a torque wrench? Is that acceptable or must I use a torque wrench? Just curious, thank you.
I used a tappet wrench and two blocks of wood to hold the barrel in my vice. It’s not rocket science.
Didn’t think it was. It seems easy, just curious if a Torque Wrench is 100% necessary or can I tighten with a regular wrench until it lines up.