Proper AR15 Break in

I never tore down my new car before starting it, I wont tear down my new gun before shooting it. I trust that Ford knew how to properly assemble my SuperDuty and I trust Charles Daly or Stag knew how to assemble my AR. After shooting I do a standard tear down for cleaning, take a gander around…and put her together for the next time.

On a new gun I’ll run a solvent, oil, then dry wipe down the barrel, drop some oil into the bolt mechanism and shoot.

I know, some of ya take your new gun apart and inspect each part before shooting… but I don’t.

I certainly hope you cleaned the Cosmoline out of your dad’s 6920 before shooting it for the first time!!! Colt encases all of their ARs in a healthy coating of Cosmoline before shipping and it must be removed entirely before you begin shooting. If you didn’t…stay tuned. Expect seizing of the entire rifle in the future and a rather difficult time cleaning it out. I know people who didn’t realize this fact and thought that it was just lube that their Colts arrived with…they found out the hard way.

You should always clean and lube a new gun, whether handgun or rifle, before heading off to the range for the first time.

Colt does not encase their AR’s in Cosmoline. Where did you come up with this?

Obviously I’m referring to the internals of the rifle. My Colt M4 and my friend’s Colt AR15 were completely covered with Cosmoline when we received them from the factory. I phoned Colt for proper cleaning method to remove Cosmoline and they confirmed both its presence and the importance of removing it before shooting.

IF there is cosmoline I would highly recommend good ol’ WD-40 for removing it, works like a champ!

Before going to the range with a new weapon-

1- Disassemble and clean with whatever you happen to prefer, provided that you have a little common sense, to ensure that whatever the factory coated the gun/parts in is removed. I do not know of any manufacturer that uses a quality lubricant, instead they use a protectant to prevent the formation of rust while being shipped/sitting on the shelf. It is a good idea to get this crap off your gun.

2- Clean the chamber and barrel to ensure that any little hangers-on from the manufacturing process are removed. A simple chamber brush on the chamber first, then wipe out with a wet patch. Then a few repetitions of a bore-brush, followed by a few patches.

3- Adequately lubricate all moving parts during reassembly. For details, there are numerous threads on the subject, and there are sure to be many more.

4- Conduct function check, which also has a few threads for details.

Break-in procedure-

1- Buy 500 rounds of quality ammo. I prefer M193 or M855 simply because I know it should work with 5.56 guns.

2- Ensure gun is properly lubricated. If in doubt, put a few drops into the oil holes in the BGC to ensure that your gas-rings are lubed, a drop or two onto the cam-pin, and a drop on the BCG rails. Don’t be worried about excessive lubrication- just ensure that lube is not dripping into the chamber. Excess lube will be gone by about shot #5, and anything that blows out of the gun before then will be stopped by your eye-pro (you all do wear ballisitic lenses when shooting, right?;)).

3- Fire a few rapid shots in an aggressive stance to check for proper function.

4- Begin zeroing procedure. This will probably take about 50 rounds if you are going to confirm at distance. I like to use 5 round groups for adjusting zero with 10 rounds for confirmation. I only fill the mags with 5 rounds (10 for the conf string) which lets me ensure that the bolt locks to the rear on each mag during live-fire.

Note- if you find that when you change positions from prone or bench to kneeling or standing you hit low, you are probably jerking the trigger, anticipating recoil by either flinching or bucking, or both.

5- Once the zeroing is done, increase tempo to get the gun warm. I let the gun cool every 200 rounds or so just because it makes the gun a little easier to work with if I decide to move something.

This is my current procedure for personal guns based off a little experience with the platform. My primary concerns with the platform are proper functioning of the FCG and smooth interface of moving parts. Secondary concern is to achieve a hard zero. Tertiary is to confirm precision potential.

WOW,

Some great information. Thanks all of you for taking the time to give some feedback. It is greatly appreciated.

The correct procedure is as follows:

  1. Inspect and clean gun
  2. Go to range
  3. Load 30 round mag
  4. Fire
  5. Repeat step four until mag is empty
  6. Reload
  7. Repeat steps 4-6 until ammo is gone

Congrats, your rifle is broken in. Feel free to clean it at this point if neccesary.

oops, double tap

what? that doesn’t make any sense to me. why would a maker of high end barrels want his barrels to wear out faster? word of mouth and reputation pretty much makes or breaks a product in the small world of precision shooting. sorry, but I ain’t buying…

So he can sale you a new one every couple years and keep the cash cow producing?

nah. suffice it to say that barrels are going to be bought. a rep of having a barrel that doesn’t last as long as your competitor is one good way to make sure that you reduce your percentage of those sold. this idea simply doesn’t hold any water.

the discussion of whether a specific break-in procedure can improve accuracy has been, and will be, discussed till the cows come home, but I’ve never heard anyone seriously suggest that this is the way the concept got it’s start…

Did you realize we both spoke of COWS in our responses? Odd. Cows and barrels. Who would have thought there would be a corrolation between the two!

This is what I do:
Now, some people do things differently, but this has worked in the past for me, and all fo my AR and AK rifles all shoot sub-moa out to and inclusing 1000 yards. Every time. You might want to write this down.
Go to the range. Take your gun. Load up 5 pmags, and yes, this will ONLY work using pmags. FDE is best, black a close second.
Load up 5 pmags. Put ONE of them into your gun. Take one shot.
Go home.
Repeat this process for 3 days, 4 if you have a Bushmaster, DPMS, RRA, or equivalent. If you built the rifle yourself, you might as well do this for 5 days, just to be safe. You’re not a gunsmith. But if you are, you still need to be safe.
K. So on the sixth day(but not if it’s a Sunday), you need your pmags. You should have 5 of them. Between 3 and 5 will onll have 29 rounds left. You will need to bumpfire those while a friend or loved one pours water over the barrel. You can’t trust just anyone with this. And your barrel can’t get too hot, it will degrade accuracy. I believe it should go without saying that you use COLD water for this.
Next. Clear your rifle. Take out your BCG and put it in a bowl of Coca Cola. Not too long, though, it may completely dissolve. You just want the carbon gone, not the whole BCG. You will need that for the next step.
Replace the BCG and fire one round. At this point you can start to use CP or GI mags, but at your own risk. I don’t recommend aluminum mags, because your rifle is made of aluminum and when two metals that are the same come into contact, the gall. I read that on a forum and I have sworn by it ever since.
To clean the barrel, after your 151 rounds, you need WD-40 and a long fireplace-type match. Take off your upper and clamp it in a vise, hold in it place firmly somehow. I bungee mine to the handrail on the back doorstep. Spray the WD-40 into the barrel and all over your rifle. Light the match and slide it into the upper, into the chamber. All of the carbon and anodizing should cook off fairly quickly.
Let cool. Once the rifle is clean you can spray it off with the hose and put it back together.

K guys obviously this is a joke(don’t try this at home), I’m going nuts waiting for my DDM4 to show up. Just got confirmation it’s been delivered! What a long week! Going to pick 'er up, will give a report in a few!

woah! cows…that is weird…

:smiley:

this thread is too long! proper break-in: clean, oil, shoot, repeat.

That was my impression of this procedure when I first heard of it.I’m glad to see someone else mention this.

How appropriate a subject. Please follow this link and see what a recent DPMS owner alleges happened to him. This is exactly why you should ALWAYS inspect your weapon and know what you are looking for.

http://usualsuspect.net/forums/showthread.php?t=402193

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Sorry, Didn’t know that you had to log in to read it. I’ll post it here.

I just bought a DPMS ar15. I know the platform well having spent 4yrs in the Army Infantry. When I got it home and broke it down,the buffer spring came flying out! There is no buffer or buffer retainer. Its a new gun so it should be there. It is an entry level ar15 so is this a corner they cut to keep price down? My dealer is calling the supplier on monday, but I figured one of you heere would know. THNX in advance.