I have a few BC 1.0’s on the way and wanted to know how many folks have used an armor’s action block to install a compensator?
My uppers are fully assembled (A2 FSB, DD Lite Rail) and I’m being a little lazy too.
I know the proper way would be to use a barrel clamp, but 15-20ft-lbs doesn’t seem like much force to adversly hurt the upper receiver or hurt the barrel.
Opinions please…
Wouldn’t you know it…a little more searching and good’old brownells has a “how to video” showing them using an action block to R&R a compensator.
http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to-install-muzzle-brakes-flash-hiders-ar-15-rifle-267092/view/
I still would like to hear your opinions…
Self correcting problems are always a good thing. 
I would recommend the barrel vise blocks method for removing and installing muzzle devices. 15 to 20 ft lbs…yeah, nice in an ideal world…but you may well find that it seems like a gorilla installed your original flash hider. Also, if using a crush washer (as you will for the battle comps), you may find that you have to crank on the thing quite a bit when installing, depending on how much you have to clock it.
For barrel replacement you can’t beat a receiver block…but not for flash hiders/comps, IMO.
I have done it both ways, but I always feel like I am cheating when I use the action block
I think using an action block puts unnecessary strain on the upper receiver. Making a set of barrel blocks out of a 2x4 is a pretty trivial exercise - cut matching V-grooves across the grain and wrap the barrel with some pieces of a bicycle innertube. Clamp it in a big vise. Removing the Vortex and replacing it with a BC 1.0 and a crush washer took me about 5 minutes.
I had to use a shim kit to get mine to clock correctly…
That issue can be avoided by using a crush washer instead of shims, like the one that BCE supplies with the Battlecomp.
yea i did use that crush washer…
but it seemed that I had like 1/4 of a turn off to how tight (subjective to me at least) i thought I needed it.
So I just backed it out and threw in a few shims to it… its working out fine so far
A crush washer needs at least 90 degrees of crush to get the right torque (16-20 ft-lbs), but you can crush it more than 360 degrees, so somewhere in there you’re good to go. Shims should be completely unnecessary. Just incrementally tighten/loosen it til you’re 90-100 degrees short of clocked, then just tighten to the right position. Don’t loosen it after that, or you either need to go around another 360 degrees (if you have it) or throw it away and start over with a new one.
Yup! What he said!
Happy New Year!
Alan