It won’t hurt anything to pull the flash hider to inspect the muzzle crown if it will give you peace of mind.
This is what I use to support the barrel when torqueing on the flash hider. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...prod12470.aspx Put masking tape over the barrel where it will touch the vise jaws to prevent marking the barrel. Or you can put the masking tape on the vise jaws.
I have had great luck with these. Good for heavy barrels and standard profiles. The padding on the inside is rubbery, which gives good grip and is non-marring. If you plan to do more builds or mods, I highly recommend them.
If you really want to do it right, toss the crush washer and use a shim set instead.
PS- If you really did over torque the crush washer (crush washers expand inward as well as outward), be prepared for further drama involving a hammer, an anvil, a die grinder and a cutting wheel
We would be happy to assist. Took the time to read through the thread and so far, the help provided has been spot-in (thank you M4C community!).
Until we can see a picture of the crown, we would not be able to advise if there was an issue from the flash hider. However, the QPQ and base steel is likely far harder than the steel in the A2 hider. As such, the hider has most likely deformed versus the barrel.
Please let us know if we can assist further or send us an e-mail with a photo and we can give you a definitive response.
Ok, I suck at that…just click on one and go to my photobucket. There are pics of the crush washer, barrel, flash hider.
A few of them show the depth of the threads on the barrel vs the depth of the threads of the flash hider. The one with the pin is the backside pin on the micrometer set to the maximum depth of the FH in relation to the barrel thread depth. No way possible for the FH to thread to the shoulder of the barrel.
i can answer any question you may/may not have about the pics.
Looks like some metal is left over from the flash hider on the edge of the crown. Deburring tool will work or a quick touch with a fine grit sandpaper.
Also took a second to check on the barrels from that batch. All were in-spec from internal Q/C so you should be good to go!
Well, it is the Flame Fluted barrel so once I compressed those 2x’s I had almost 100 percent bearing surface on that barrel and the flutes would act as a stop.
That being said, it did come off WAY easier than on.
Now I’m wondering what caused all the rukus when I put it on…not a new crush washer is my first guess. Then that caused the FH to bottom out on the barrel.
I imagine your flash hider is just fine. But if it gives you peace of mind, they’re only 5-10 bucks. Just pick one up the next time you order something. Just about everyone sells them.