A friend of mine has a RRA M4 clone built in 2003 during the ban. It came with a muzzle brake installed and a fake collapsible stock.
He is offering to sell it and I was wondering two things
If the brake can be removed and if the barrel is threaded to accept a flash suppressor.
Will a mil spec stack fit or is this rifle a “commercial” design?
I had planned to build an AR (my first) but am considering buying this instead but I would want to get it to a pre-ban configuration. I live in PA so this is legal. He is asking $720 for it and I’m thinking I would be ahead (over buying/building a new AR) even if I replaced the brake and stock.
If the brake can be removed and if the barrel is threaded to accept a flash suppressor.
If it has less than a 16" barrel (without the brake) then the brake is pinned and welded. It can still be removed but you’ll probably need to have a gunsmith remove it and replace it with the new flash hider which will also have to be pinned and welded. If you do not re-pin and weld the new flash hider on, then you will be in possession of an illegal SBR. I have no experience with them, but a lot of folks on M4C will recomend Adco for this kind of work. Otherwise, if your barrel is 16"+, then removing the brake will be very simple to do with a wrench and some elbow grease. If the barrel has the standard 1/2 x 28 thread pitch (which it most likely does), it will be fine for installing any flash suppressor or muzzle brake designed for a 5.56/.223 AR-15.
Will a mil spec stack fit or is this rifle a “commercial” design?
I just got an email reply from RRA that said “You would have to have the pin at the 6-o’clock position removed first.” and no other details. I’m assuming that the brake is not welded then(?).
I guess I should pass since it seems I could do better buying a used “pre ban”.
Read it again - this is a ban era carbine. No spinning off the muzzle device regardless of length.
OP, if you buy it I would send it to Adco or similar for muzzle device removal. It should be threaded.
Also, I believe the stock is scrap - I seem to recall RRA selling six position stock bodies permanently attached to a special longer RE. They can’t be economically modified.
Edit - Sorry OP, you posted while I was composing.
A friend had a ban era RRA barrel, and it wasn’t welded all the way around - the pin was welded, though. You can probably split the FH off and clean up the threads if you’re handy, or send it to Adco for the work.
I don’t think I’d bother unless it were practically free.
What do you see them going for? I can’t seem to find one online for less than $850. $500 seems very low. Not that I wouldn’t want to get it for that price.
And if it matters at all , I know that the gun has no more than 50 rounds through it. My friend likes to buy guns but rarely shoots them :rolleyes:.
Sorry, but considering the rebates available on SW rifles I am seeing at gun stores, combined with some of the prices I am seeing at gun shows up here, I would say that any ban state used rifles by RRA or Stag, or any of the lower tier producers (even if it is only 50 rounds) isn’t worth more then 500 in my mind. Especially in a non ban state. Are there idiots that will pay more for them? Yep. Doesn’t mean the rifles are worth it.
Thanks for the advise. That is good news. I am real new the AR world and I’m still in the research phase. I have not really checked out a lot of gun stores. I’m going to head over to a gun show this weekend and I’ll see what they have.
Thanks for the advise. That is good news. I am real new the AR world and I’m still in the research phase. I have not really checked out a lot of gun stores. I’m going to head over to a gun show this weekend and I’ll see what they have.
I’m concerned that you might be heading into this decision a bit naively, but to tell you the truth I was too when I first ventured into the world of AR-15’s. I strongly recommend that you do some more research, especially here on this site before you head off to the gunshow and buy some guy’s frankengun or spend $1,200 on a DPMS with a canted FSB. Before you run off to the gunshow with your money burning a hole in your pocket, do yourself a favor and read the threads linked within this thread: https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=7355. Pay special attention especially to the first three links, “Comparison Chart of Major AR Brands”, “Oh No! I bought a BM/RRA/Stag before I knew better!”, and “I can build a better rifle for less money!”
Thanks for the info and link. You guys have been a big help.
On a side note I showed this to my wife and she chuckled because she knows that I research things for months before I buy anything. If there is one thing that I fear more than anything, its being the person you described. If you knew me I think you would feel that I’m the polar opposite of that description.
That being said, I am in the very beginning of the research phase as I’m sure is obvious. I have a pile of books and magazine I’m currently pouring over as well as scouring the internet on a nightly basis. My friend sent me an email Friday about his rifle and I wanted to get opinions on the proposition.
The world of AR 15’s is more complicated than I suspected. The research I’ve done so far has made me feel that building a rifle may be the best bet. Right now I am trying to figure out the major differences between all the manufacturers and what is the best combination of components and why.
I didn’t really plan on buying anything at the gun show this weekend-just look around and ask the same questions to different people to get a consensus. If was to buy anything it would be a striped lower receiver because from what I read there are all very similar. But for me further research is needed.
Again, thanks for the links and advise. If you know any other links that will help shorten the learning curve I would be very grateful for them.
I had a RRA that I bought during the Clinton ban era. When the ban sunset, I had a friend of mine remove the factory compensator that was “permanently” attached. He just used a Dremel and cut away the weld spot a little at a time. Taking his time and going very slowly, he cut enough of the weld spot off that we were able to get to the little hex screw. From there, we took the screw off and the compensator unscrewed with no problem. We put an A2 flash hider on the barrel (it was 16") and it was good to go.
As for the stock, I took the whole stock assembly off and installed a standard M4 buffer tube and 6 position M4 stock.
Go slow on the compensator and you’ll get it off without having to send the upper to anybody out of state.