So my suppressor is fairly new. About 100 shots through it. I noticed that on rotating the attachment there is a slight break ( just before halfway of full rotation when turning without it attaching to the FH). I don’t remember if it was always that way or not. Looking at the “teeth” with a magnifying glass it looks likes a little groove, I can’t tell if it is machined or if it is damaged. So do others get a smooth rotation all the way through or do they hear/feel a break when rotating the attachment system?
Also, I notice if I am attaching the suppressor to the rifle, the break point is at the very end of the rotation (About 28-30 clicks).
have you called surefire? they have a very knowledgeable help desk and little to no waiting time. i think i understand your post, are you saying that when tightening the collar it feels like it is skipping some teeth? you should really be keeping the latch depressed until the color is fully tightened. then let go of latch and try to tighten. the groove you are seeing across the teeth is from the latch riding over them as you tighten the collar and why i suggest keeping the latch depressed.
i just tested mine. with the can fully seated on the muzzle device and collar fully loosened/unlocked and not touching the latch, i do not get any jumps or surprises. just clicks all the way.
Thanks for replying. Here is a video I just shot of the action. Listen near the beginning of the rotation and you hear a click that is louder than all the others. If you, or anyone else finds that odd, I will call surefire first thing Monday morning.
OP, I have multiple Surefires and they all do this. About halfway through, it makes a loud click/skip noise exactly like yours and noticeably jumps a few teeth. It concerned me for a while, but I never followed up on it and I’ve shot them a few times since with no ill results. Whether or not its normal, I don’t know, but there’s a few more points of data for you. We also have an awesome Surefire employee on here named Garin (Kudu22, I believe) who has helped many members figure out all things Surefire. I’ve alerted him to this thread and maybe he could help us. 
And T15, while I follow the same method as you, I made a thread on that very subject a while ago and the advice from Surefire (“right way”) was to simply tighten and let the teeth ratchet, no need to depress the latch while tightening to avoid teeth-teeth contact. Depressing the latch was actually a solution to a problem on AAC cans.
thanks for this, i wonder if it makes a difference. op, i watched your video. when i take it off the host like you do in the video mine is exactly the same.
The groves on the suppressor do not go all the way around. They are only in a section of it. It is for a audible indicator that the suppressor latch is engaging. The suppressor is designed that the latch will end up in the 12 o’clock position when properly installed. Over rotating the lock ring will allow the latch to go further than the groves that are machined into the top of the back section. Your suppressor is GTG. If you have any other question feel free to hit me at work. Garin@surefire.com
Boom! Thanks Garin.
The teeth are designed as such on the pawl that they will work even if the grooves were machined away. They are for an audible and tactile indicator only, as Garin stated previously. They serve no function of retention.
Will this cause damage? I usually depress the latch when I install my SOCOM to avoid that ratchet sound, but tighten until it no longer turns.
Thanks Garin… for the hundredth time!
That will not cause damage. Not Garin, but I know what he’s going to say, and you’re good to go.
WS6 is 100% correct. The latch is made from heat treated bar stock and the teeth will not wear out. Other latches out there are made by MIM and can not be heat treated so they wear with use and that is their recommendation to limit the use of the engaging of the teeth. That is not the case with the Surefire suppressors.
My latch seems to be making new teeth in the suppressor body at its fully tightened position. Am I doing something wrong?
Is it indexing correctly? What do you mean, you mean it is “making teeth” that “super-impose” over the existing teeth, for lack of a better term? If so, then yeah, that’s normal and won’t effect a thing. The teeth have nothing to do with lock-up. They are there to let your hands and/or ears know that you are effectively tightening the lock collar (provided the can is seated correctly…). The angle of the teeth on the pawl as well as the rockwell hardness and type of material used that it interacts with are such that the system would be 100% effective, even without the ridges. I personally think that the REAL reason SF machines those ridges is so that people will hear/feel them, and they won’t see new ridges created by the pawl on a smooth section and totally freak, however, it seems that you and I are OCD enough to notice “new” ridges, anyway, lol. Your can is fine unless you notice it coming loose, or not indexing correctly, or not seating all the way, or something like that.