BCM upper 16" mid SS 1/8
needs to be under 900$
dont matter if its in stock or not… no rush…
make a pick and tell me why you like that pic…
or i can go this route
this rail
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=27474/Product/DIAMOND_PATTERN_FREE_FLOAT_HANDGUARD
or this
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=27524/Product/AR_15_M16__SMOOTH__FREE_FLOAT_HANDGUARD
BTW any 1 know what the USMC SAM-R chamber is?
You are the only person that can pick your upper… :rolleyes:
What are you going to use the upper for?
.
This thread could get crazy quick!
I think Olympic arms is what you want.
Why SS? Is this for a precision rig?
If precision, why wouldn’t you want to go free float?
It is beyond me why you would have anyone tell you how to spend almost $1k 
If you have questions about the comparative technical merits of one upper over another, please by all means ask them.
Otherwise, there’s a poll feature available to the OP of any thread, which still required, by definition, that a question(s) be asked and the viewers given a field of answers from which to choose.
As it stands, this is dancing on the out-of-bounds line like a wide receiver that just fingertip-caught a pass and is prancing on his tippy-toes to get some more yardage.
The OP will have the opportunity to have this one re-opened by contacting myself or another mod and proving that he has at least one question (preferably a series of questions) or state his desired usage so that members can provide input based on something other than Wheel of Fortune basis.
Ya gotta help us to help you.
[b]EDIT: Okay, Take 2, Act 1, Scene 1. OP should be along with more background. See either his new, modifying post below or an edit in the OP above. If you’re not the OP, check the time-stamp of whichever it is in comparison to this edit of my post before posting.
Fair warning – before anybody makes an attempt to prove to themselves how clever they think they are to themselves or the membership at large…don’t. Answer the topic at hand, not the one you gin up for the sake of unhelpful sarcasm. “Entry into this area constitutes consent to search your person and your bags for contraband.”[/b]
im trying to get opinions, my upper was damaged and the insurance company is giving me cash to replace…
upper its replacing in the top 1 in the pic
its my general shooter, carbine class gun, HD/zombie, and walk around ground hog shooter
when i get it, it will be sent out to be nitrated…
i prefer a 1/8 to 1/7, BCM only offer 1/8 in SS
I will try to answer your “question” but be warned I am not going to sugar coat things and if you don’t like my answer fine, but keep in mind I am not trying to flame you or start some sort of drama. SO here goes…
First let me say I think you are asking too many things of one upper. I have tried the “one-size-fits-all” AR before and while it may do many things OK, it won’t do any of them well. If you want something for carbine classes and serious social purposes I would get a BCM lightweight mid-length CMV 16" and be done with it. Mind you that with match ammo these uppers will be close to 1 MOA if assembled properly with a quality rail system and good optic. If you want a precision rifle then the BCM upper you have linked is a great start. However don’t fool yourself, the stainless upper is a poor choice for a “general shooter, carbine class gun, HD/zombie” as you have listed. It will be damn heavy and it will have no where near the useful life of a chrome lined 4150 upper.
YMH rails are crap. They are heavy, overly complex, poorly machined, and lack the anti-rotation features which are considered mandatory by most serious users. Look at Daniel Defense, or LaRue, Troy, etc. for your rail. Hang out here for a while and you will get a good idea as to what is GTG and what is garbage.
Generally Zombie/TEOTWAKI/SHTF/Alien Invasion/The Reds/Chinese/North Koreans/Book of Eli/I am Legend crap doesn’t fly here. It is usually interpreted by members here as placing you in class of AR owner which doesn’t do well here.
Finally, you have some nice stuff in your picture there, but the cheap-ass red-dot, fake 3x magnifier, CAA shit, cheap scope, etc. is not going to win you any points here. They are wastes of money pure and simple. For the money I see wasted in that pic I see at least a Surefire Scout, Aimpoint RDS, and perhaps even a Daniel Defense rail.
In the end though if you want something to shoot some dirt with and show off at BBQs, well get whatever you want. Thank you at least for asking the question before you bought, that is VERY rare these days.
the red dot im looking to upgrade with the insurance $
the 3x some 1 gave me to test, it was to crappy to use… no eye relief.
the stock is a FAB
http://www.fab-defense.com/en/category-butt-stocks/id-208/m4-m16-shock-absorbing-butt-stock.html
the bottom gun i sold.
im going to look at the hammer forged line now, im just not a fan of the 1/7
and i rather nitrate the barrel over chrome.
OK, I understand.
What optic are you looking to upgrade to? If you are looking at an Aimpoint, or any other optic under about 10x or so then I would highly implore you NOT get a stainless barrel. You will not see the accuracy improvement with a stainless barrel with such a low powered optic. To really see the advantage stainless has over a CMV you need a 10x or higher scope, good match grade trigger, rail, match grade ammunition, practice, etc.
im going to look at the hammer forged line now, im just not a fan of the 1/7
and i rather nitrate the barrel over chrome.
OK this says to me that perhaps some further research on the subject is necessary. Here is a link to a post done by BCM themselves.
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=37
Read it, learn it.
ETA: Sorry, not the link I thought it was. I will dig and see if I can find it.
I don’t know why you don’t care for 1 in 7" or for chrome lining, and no offense, but I believe it is due to some ignorance on your part on the subject.
Please allow me to speak a little about twist rate. Firstly you denoted the twist as 1/7, and this is a common error. The twist rate is NOT a ratio as you have denoted. It means that the projectile will complete one 360 degree rotation of the bullet for every seven inches of travel. This rate is in fact necessary to stabilize the M856 tracer rounds used by the US Military due to their long shape. 1 in 7 is useful because it can and will stabilize everything from 50 grain and up. It is a myth (pure bullshit) that 1 in 9 will somehow be more accurate for 55gr or similar bullets. It is impossible to “over stabilize” a bullet. The only bad thing that can happen with a 1in7 is that with some very lightweight projectiles (36 grain) can actually spin apart in flight from the very high rotational speed of the projectile. If you are using this sort of projectile in an AR you should be using a long (think 24") stainless barrel with a 1 in 12" twist.
i swap optics as i need, i use a red dot for anything under 100y
and a 4x16 for out to 500 for groundhogs…
i have have many uppers for different uses, the 16 for general walk around and under 400, a 24" heavy for out to 800 and a 24" 243wssm upper for 1100.
im building a 260 out to 1400…
necessary to stabilize the M856 tracer
i know, the main reason i dont need it, the 1/8 allows me to still shoot my light 40’s and up to the 77 … i have a 20" 1/7… ive had issues with 55gr soft points and 50gr TNT’s
i have the Geissele Match trigger and a armalite NM in my other upper…
I’ve had great luck with bcm stripped uppers.build it the way you want it.
Eta: you might be asking too much of one upper.
It sounds like you have the precision/varmint rigs covered. Why not build a “fighting” carbine at this point, and keep your light projectiles for your precision rigs?
I think you might be satisfied and enjoy something that is light, robust, accurate, and durable. I would honestly suggest a BCM lightweight midlength 16" with a Daniel Defense, Troy, Viking Tactics, or LaRue rail…or perhaps even a Magpul MOE handguards. Add a RDS, or perhaps an ACOG and you will have a really nice carbine.
The accuracy will surprise you I think, and the handiness and lightweight will astound you.
Your usage of figurative language and metaphor never ceases to entertain on this forum. There should be a book written sometime in your future. 
hmm… are you talking the normal m4 profile light, or the pencil light?..
ive thought about the pencil lights, my buddy has 1, just not sure on the durability or the look of the tine front 
i really like the look of this 1,
http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-16-Mid-Length-LIGHT-WEIGHT-Upper-Receiver-p/bcm-urg-mid-16lw%20ddl12.htm
and with the rail out that far, you dont notice the thin front barrel…
The M4 profile is useless without an M203, and furthermore it limits you to the carbine gas system. I think the middy gas system is superior for the 16" barrel length, and unless you have a registered M203 than the notch in the barrel is useless and could have a negative effect on the barrel harmonics.
I know the skinny barrels take some warming up to, but I am telling you they are really damn awesome. Larry Vickers has stated on numerous occasions that the lightweight profile is everything a civilian could need unless they shoot a bunch of full auto through the barrel.
I can assure you the pencil barrel are extremely durable, just as much as any other Gov’t profile, or stainless barrel.
ETA: that Upper you have linked to is awesome, what I would consider something state of the art in the AR world.
DONE…
BCM UL 1-7 hammer forged
troy battle rail.
home made low pro gas block
barrel, gas block, gas tube, phantom FH Nitraded by H&M
http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=83495&page=15
Your not done til you rearrange that front sight;)
huh? i just took it out now, with out sighting it in and all being new, the first 3 shots @ 50Y were dead center in a 2" bull.
the front sight is made so it can go on a rail or gas block and still co-witness
Ring
Not sure what front sight you have there, but it appears to be mounted backwards.
You made a good decision. Really like what you’ve got there.
Yeah, he’s something ain’t he.