I am building an LMT and they do not park under the FSB. I am considering using rustoleum high heat paint but would like to know if anyone has done this and what their experience was.
Thank you and have a great day
I didn’t paint that particular place, I painted a cut down standard “A” frame sight/gas block. I used 1300 degree BBQ flat black. It’s not as spiffy as parkerizing, but it worked pretty well. I haven’t got any rust there and it’s been years.
Rustoleum BBQ or VHT Flame Proof should work. VHT recommends baking.
Thank you Tom. The above is exactly what I needed to know.
Is this area going to be fully covered by a FSB or gas block? If so, why not tru-blue it and call it fair? This way you don’t have to worry with scratching a thicker layer of paint off during assembly.
- Tru blu isn’t at my local Home Depot.
- I want to get this thing dialed in tomorrow.
- It isn’t under the FSB that concerns me. I removed the handguard cap (without removing the FSB) and part of the FSB that was behind it is shiny bare metal.
[Rob_S Chart Intensifies]
But seriously…This is why any new or restored gun of mine isn’t using an FSB anymore.
Good luck wif it (send me pics)
- Academy sports.
- That will be one way to bake the paint.
- Got it.
4… if the paint doesn’t work out, you can always strip it and tru-blue it later.
Jealous of you getting some trigger time tomorrow. This work stuff gets in the way!
I got one gun left with an “A” frame FSB and I don’t use irons anymore (old eyes). I’m eventually going to cut that off, paint it and slap a Fortis Rev 2 12" on it. And that will be that on AR irons.
I forgot to add, that these non-firearms off the shelf heat paints don’t stand up to gun cleaning and preserving products too well even when dried, so be careful in their use.
BBQ paint or VHT high temp (or same from other automotive paint companies) should work, but as TomMcC mentioned there can be dissolving issues. That (and touching up iron sights) is a good reason to keep Birchwood Casey Super Blue or Brownell’s Oxpho Blue on hand.
I know it is supposed to be phosphated first, but I think enough oil will leach in to the area via the gas port that corrosion is not a likely issue.
Out of curiosity, how hard was it to remove the pins? The finish before pinning barrels I have pulled the front sight off of have been easy, but the 2 that got phosphated after pinning I ended up Dremel’ing loose.
I’ve also never heard of academy sports. Interesting looking place.
I used a type of paint that claims to be oil resistant. Whether that’s true or not who knows but it’s something.
Academy Sports is a moderately less dickish place than Dick’s.
Sometimes you can get ammo deals but its mostly like Kmart for yuppie kids
Another vote to chop the fsb into a low profile gasblock and paint it. That’s what I did on a 10.5 lmt barrel.
I didn’t need to be super aggressive with it, you can shape it more if you need to. This was for a High Power rig when I added a scope to it, HG are NM FF. Hacksaw and a file, cold blue and krylon. It just takes a little time.
But then I wouldn’t have an FSB?
If I didn’t want an FSB I wouldn’t have bought an LMT upper?
Why am I talking in questions?
I don’t know?
It came out well though. I used matte black to coat the FSB where it was bare, baked it per the directions, and then played arts and crafts all night.
That turned out really nice. Well done.
That turned out really nice. Well done.
Epic couch…:jester: What’s going on with the magnifier?
Im not sure. It has a green tint to it but I think it looks neat.