One thing I do not like about Spikes.

So with me building a new rifle(M4A1 clone) I decided I would rebuild my SBR lower with new parts from a quality company.

Now one thing spikes does is they like to tap their lower for the rear takedown spring so it doesnt shoot out when a novice begins taking apart a rifle. What this means is they cut down the takedown spring. My rear takedown spring has never been very stiff but it always worked. I decided it was time to fix that and wanted to show you just what they do, aside from this their lowers are built well and this is just one of my peeves I cannot stand.

Here is the lower after removing the little screw thing.

Here is the difference in springs.

That is very interesting. I’ve never noticed that before, but I guess I would have been in for a surprise when the spring doesn’t pop out later this year when I install an A5 receiver extension on one of my Spike’s lowers.

It’s actually sort of a nifty idea.

…and I thought you just didn’t like the Rock’em Sock’em Phallics

Maybe I’m petty, but the Dueling Dicks logo pretty much makes that and anything else from Spikes a non-issue for me.

Not a problem if you don’t buy them.

Sounds like a love hate thing you have going. How has the Lower been for you over all, other then that little pesky issue?

I’ve built 4 spikes lowers and don’t recall that being so in any of them.

It’s been a while, maybe my memory is bad.

I cannot get over the spider. Give me the stigmata of a simpleton. But I hate that thing.

-Jax

Roger that on the Spider penis.

Aside from the owners antics and his vulcan arms way of promoting his company, the dualing dongs logo, and the issue posted above their lowers are fine, finish is usually very good and they built properly.

This lower has been through some use, it has been my main lower for the past 5yrs so it is a good lower despite its flaws.

And here I was thinking it was a spider, albeit an ugly spider logo.

Here is the difference in springs.
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I don’t know why they would cut the spring down that far, no wonder it feels soft. There was a machine shop nearby me helping guys out with finishing their 80% lowers, and they also offered this mod to anyone interested. The guy there did say to only cut the spring down the length of the set screw, which I guess is obvious ha.

No need to cut the spring any further than the length of the set screw.

That was the springs that Spike’s sent with the lower.

Is that lower detente a little longer?

I think the tapping is a great idea. I know people have legitimate gripes about Spikes, but this should not be one of them.

We should give credit for good ideas.

To me this is a fix to a non-issue since installing and removing an end plate without losing the spring is so simple a cave man can do it, this also opens up the ability to overshorten the spring when you snip it, like spikes did to mine(It has always been like this since I got the lower).

I would not be keen on needing a small, non-standard allen key if I ever did have to deal with it in the field.

How big of a problem is lost springs & detents anyway???

The more I learn the more I believe SWAG (Stoner Was A Genius). Not that the AR is perfect, but…

if you are careful they are hard to lose, If you are careless I can see the spring shooting out. I always loosen the castle nut all the way then raise the end plate and nothing goes shooting.

Thats not tapped on any of mine.

Ive seen peopletap it themselves as a “mod”.