Will (Slippers) brought up a good point in another thread regarding differences in the Surefire SOCOM MDs. That is, that the muzzle brake and the flash hider have labyrinth seals and the warcomps and closed-tine FH do not. I don’t think most people have noticed this.
After using the closed-tine warcomp and CT FH, I have decided that they aren’t good suppressor hosts because they don’t seal as well as the brake or open FH. Not that the latter two seal wonderfully; they don’t, and the SOCOM suppressors still get stuck. However, I have found the devices without the seals to be noticeably worse than those with the seals/rings.
Additionally, I have found that the holes in the warcomps contribute considerably to the suppressor getting stuck after prolonged firing (approx 200rds or more without removing suppressor).
I’m interested in the observations of others.
Also mentioned in the other thread was a question about blast baffles in the devices to act as sacrificial baffles for a suppressor. Each of the SOCOM-compatable devices has a restricted orifice (baffle) - including the FH. They are not open/unrestricted such as a NATO FH is. The brake is the only device that has more than one of these baffles.
**To me, QD means [b]quick[/b] (a few seconds) [b]detach[/b] and without tools, even (especially) after prolonged firing.**
Having used the SOCOM suppressors and mounts extensively I have determined that I don’t care for them. They are not QD, even using oil/grease on the mating surfaces. I think there are better QD mounts available. The suppressor itself is durable but I don’t consider it QD when I have to shoot it off with a blank (or live round).
I prefer the NT-4 and Griffin M4SD type mounts because they are repeatable and truly QD. The devices are short/same length as a NATO FH. The mechanism on the suppressor is relatively short as well. My experience shows they generally (not always) have more POI shift than the SOCOM set up, but not enough to be a problem. The QD benefit is well worth the trade. (Yes, Griffin makes some longer devices designed to bring a 14.5" barrel to 16+".)
I also have experience with the Dead Air Key-Mo QD devices and find them to be excellent. They have solid and repeatable lock-up, and actually are QD. I don’t like how long the devices and mount are, but feel that’s a small price to pay for the function.
I know there are other QD systems out there but I have little to no experience with them. I would particularly like input from hard users of the KAC QD mounts and suppressors.
The circumferential rings around the MD about 1/3 from the rear. Only the brake and FH have them. I did not think they would make such a difference but after running CT (closed-tine) warcomps and a CT FH I see that I was wrong. I’m getting rid of the warcomps and CT FH I have.
I have not used the open tine warcomp, but they do not have the rings/seals. Also, I find the carbon and copper deposits left in the suppressor from the vent holes in a warcomp to be problematic. This is particularly so when switching suppressor hosts.
I find as long as I don’t switch hosts, it’s not a huge issue to remove/reinstall surefire cans. I ran about 450 rounds through my scar 17 last weekend with socom 762 mini 2 mounted the entire time, and it has an open tine warcomp. It was a little difficult to remove - the can unlatched and the collar spun, but I had to twist it back and forth a bit to get it to slide off the mount.
By comparison the same can has been run on another rifle with an SF3P, and went 1000+ rounds over multiple shooting sessions without cleaning the muzzle device or mount.
Also, I find that it’s not good to heavily lube the mount before use. It seems to contribute to carbon buildup since the temperatures get high enough to burn off the oil. Much like how you don’t lube the gas regulator or piston in a scar.
I believe this is what’s contributing to your issue and not the lack of any “seals”. Not even sure how they could seal anything being the same diameter as the base. Regardless, my Socom sticking problem has completely disappeared using silicone oil on the adapter mating surfaces.
Do you use anti-seize grease on your mount? Do you scrub the carbon off after shooting hundreds/thousands rounds or just let it go? I’ve been lubing with ALG go juice or Anti-Seize, but I certainly see the carbon build you’re talking about. I usually scrub the heck out of the can and mount after several hundred rounds. Certainly looking for a better way…
My socom sticks frequently, on a mb, and open tine fh. Cleaning does nothing, anti seize does nothing, lube or grease does nothing. I’ve tried it all.
The only thing that always works is heating the rear 1/4 of the can with a torch for 5 seconds and it comes off nicely.
I have found that the CT FH (no vent holes) doesn’t seal as well as the open tine FH or MB. The can still sticks if you shoot several hundred rounds. I’ve never tried silicone, but I have tried several types of lube and nothing helps. Leaving the surfaces dry doesn’t help either.
This is the the Q cherry bomb suppressor mount brake.
It’s a pretty effective brake with all those vent holes.
It has a tapered surface in front of the threads that effectively seals out carbon, which works in conjunction with the bearing surface just behind the threads to ensure good suppressor alignment.
I’ve had surefire cans for years and years and never had one stick to where I couldn’t get it off. I take them off while they are still pretty warm. Never an issue. I shoot Magtech and PPU m193. I feel they burn much cleaner then federal LC stuff… maybe ammo directly relates to additional carbon buildup? I still haven’t had an experience where I need to torch my can or shoot it off. Only rocking it back and forth a little and comes off…
I use a rifles only HAD core to take the cans off while still hot.
Great info, everybody. My first can is in jail and it’s a SOCOM RC. I’ve been debating which muzzle device to use on the host and this thread is pointing to the brake.
