new to me AK for $0, minor question

Picked up a AK47. From what I can search/figure out it looks like it might be a Century SAR-1. The seller was told it was Romanian and it has the mag dimples. The bolt is chrome (prior owner believed it was aftermarket/upgraded). The trigger was replaced with a tapco unit so trigger snap should not be an issue. Could use a good cleaning IMHO. I know most people here have on average higher end gear/equipment and Century is a bit low tier. All I wanted was the counterpart to my AR15…this AK will probably be shot a few times a year at most.

Not sure if the barrel is chrome lined and that is my question? How could I tell…

Not fond of the fore grip…but I am basically in it so far $0.

Are there any markings on it? From that distance, it does look like an SAR-1, but the markings would prove it.

SARs were solid guns. I’ve several thousand rounds through my 5.45mm SAR-2 with no issues. I’ve cleaned it a handfull of times over the years, since I never shoot corrosive ammo through it, and it runs like a sewing machine.

No real markings on it that I can see, not sure if its some kind of “kit” or just inconsistent as some info indicated…there is a USA stamped on the underside of the stamped receiver. From what I searched out the SAR-1 markings were not always the same…

It looks like the receiver may have been refinished at one point

Kit or not it will be marked someplace.

Look for “Made in…” markings as well.

The only stamping is the usa under the receiver just forward of the mag well that I can see. There are serial numbers (2 letters and 4 numbers) scribed into the area under the front sight by what looks like a awl. Also it looks like there are no rivets they are all allen head screws.

I am going to look around the area of the front sight base block.

It sounds like it might have been originally a receiver flat, I’m not sure I’d shoot it if it was held together with screws instead of rivets, could be dangerous

It has the Century number system markings (1-4 for parts fitment system). I researched the screw/rivet thing to find some actually prefer screws for cleaning access reasons but I will probably go over it with some locktite and a in/lb torq wrench (for consistency) prior to shooting as many who do use screws check 1-2 times a year. I also found that its not uncommon to have the serial number electro penciled like mine and not having any markings on the flat part of the trunnion was somewhat common with some of the civilian model receivers used by Century.

Also found out it has a tapco piston…so far the receiver is a double hook trigger setup with a tapco trigger and mag dimples. Not sure if its a SAR-1 or not but with the aftermarket tapco parts and information I found I don’t think I did too bad. Construction is solid with no rattles when shook.

Still no idea on the chrome barrel thing but the ammo I will run will not be corrosive either.

Clean it up and look at the chamber. If the barrel is hard chromed the chamber is almost certainly also chromed. Hard chrome is satin gray, not mirror shiny.

Great, will do. Thanks for the tip.

That’s a kit build on a flat. No one knowledgeable about AK’s is going to prefer a screw build.

There is no way I’d put my face anywhere near that thing when the trigger is pulled.

Best thing to do is use it for a parts kit.

great, at least I am not into it for anything…

Could a gunsmith reassemble the lower with rivets? Or do the screws ruin the entire receiver so that rivets can not be used?

I’d really like a clear picture of the receiver, right side, left side, bottom, set your camera for “macro” and get some good natural light.

If it is a flat build, then I also doubt the heat treatment is very good on the receiver either.

If it were me, I’d get a receiver from DCI/Nodak, and send it to a competent smith. You should be able to get a decent carbine out of it that way.

http://www.nodakspud.com/

That pic was from my iphone.

Let me take a few with an actual camera.

Right side

Left side

stamp by mag well, still not all that clear but it says usa, its not straight in how its stamped.

Trigger portion of the bottom.

Yup. The only good thing about screw-builds is that they’re easy to take apart and then properly rivet it together on a known-receiver.

Furthermore, that rifle needs to have its headspace checked; triply so if the bolt isn’t matching.

Exactly what I was gonna recommend.

I’ll second those recommendations. Never trust someone else’s kit build. Send it to a good gunsmith and get it done right.

That is reason #1

I am going to take it to a gunsmith and have them see if they can tell if its worth while to rivet. If not the economy bare receiver in the link templar posted should fit the bill. For the cost I am tempted to just order anyway.

I will have what…probably 100-150$ in a properly/professionaly setup Romanian AK with some decent upgrades depending on what the gunsmith charges to setup/rivet.

Not worth rebuilding. :frowning:

Here’s what you are looking at.

Demill rifle into parts - minimum one hour labor. $50 ?

New receiver $75 + transfer/background check from FFL
(a receiver IS a firearm )

Assemble parts / headspace barrel on new receiver. $150

rivets, odd part, any pretty work will be extra.

.

I would disagree depending on the quality of the parts.

Check to see if it is a matching parts kit. The serial number is on the left (opposite of ejection port) side of the front trunnion. The dust cover, bolt carrier, And bolt will also have serial numbers, most likely those parts will have 4 digits which would match the last 4 digits on the trunnion.

You can demill the parts yourself, it will just be a matter of removing the screws, may require some heat if there is locktite on them.

Building an ak isn’t something that a typical gunsmith will do, the jigs required to rivet the parts together will only be owned by smiths that build a lot of ak’s.

The smith will need to press out the barrel pin and barrel, rivet the trunnions and trigger guard into the receiver, mill the second groove for the double hook trigger (nodak receivers are setup for single hook triggers, other option is to buy a single hook g2). Press the barrel and pin back in, and refinish. The cheapest you are probably looking at for this is around 250 but the price and wait time will depend on what smith you go with.

If it isn’t a matching kit it will also require headspacing, and won’t be worth as much when you are done, so itmay not be worth the cost. But a parts matching kit built on a nodak receiver by a good smith will be a fine rifle.