First I want to apologize for my reaction in the other thread. Every other post saying I was breaking the law combined with being tired put me over the edge. Good intentions or not, it wasn’t well received and I made an ass of myself.
Here’s what I came up with for this barrel:
The bottom of the blue line towards the chamber is 16", so it measures closer to 16.25" with the crown on the brake (the barrel itself also has a 11 degree target crown on it).
The internal chamber necks down as it gets further from the muzzle, so it should do a good job of stripping off the blast and forcing it out the bores.
The reason the ports aren’t centered on the bore is to cause turbulence as the gasses pass the internal edges. This should cause complete combustion of any remaining powder. Any visible flash will also create an “X” pattern which will be to the sides of the field of view. I’m not worried about a dust signature - this gun will shoot in the woods for the most part.
I want to leave the finish like it is, but I might have to paint it because the 416 probably isn’t passivated anymore since sand blasting. The brake is 304 and shouldn’t have any issues with rust.
I don’t have the barrel nut torqued yet, and I only got my scope for it yesterday. I may head out to the range later this week if my customer’s crap goes well.
It is hard to tell from the pictures and the blasted surface texture- is the device pinned and welded to the barrel? Nice job on the execution. Comments in the previous thread were not intended to discourage your creativity- only to provide a little feedback in the hope that you did not stray to the darkside.
Looking at the first pic it appears you can see a spot at the base of the brake where it might be pinned/welded. I’d be interested too in finding out for sure
The divot in the second pic is the crater/bump from tig welding the pin in.
I used 309 SS for the pin (best weld compatibility with 304) and just left a little extra length to blend the pin into the base metal.
The pin is sunk about .125 into the side of the barrel in the threads. The only way it’s coming out is by milling the whole works off, as it’s a press fit pin.
Thought I’d updated this before, but I guess I forgot to post it.
Been to the range and in the field a few times with the brake, and been next to guys shooting 16" barrels with A2 flash hiders and I’ve gotta say I MUCH prefer being around my gun. Even out in the woods letting others shoot it, it’s just got a lot less concussion all around.
Recoil is slightly less, but muzzle flip is greatly reduced. On cheap brown bear ammo it’ll still throw a fire ball (flaming pig style) doing mag dumps, but the goal of not seeing it in the glass has been achieved.
For those interested in one just like it - PM me and we’ll talk.
Well, it’s hard to say - there’s not much recoil out of a .223 to begin with.
It still kicks more than my marlin 795 .22lr. But it kicks much less than my .308win cetme. I really enjoy shooting my cetme, so whatever the factory 12 hole brake does for that works pretty good in conjunction with being a 14# gun.
I’d say it’s about the same as my 24" HBAR no brake Colt accurized did, but that’s also 7 year old memories now. That was a pretty heavy girl too with the bull barrel and all.
You know it’s gone off, but it’s not punishing in the least bit.
