Greetings,
New to the AR world and have a colt 6940. Also have a Aimpoint Micro T1 installed. Can someone point me to the zeroing process/procedure. I plan to cowitness my aimpoint…questions are Do I first zero my BUIS (sounds like a logical first step) and than zero in the aimpoint?
any pointers/guidance greatly appreciated
Zero the Iron Sights.
Zero your Aimpoint.
Be happy
Shoot Things
Cowitness is being able to use your irons through your aimpoint. It has nothing to do with zeroing the optic.
do folks also just keep the back sight folded down and show with just the optic?
If I were you, I’d go to panteaoproductions.com and sign up for 1 month and watch all of the online training videos. Both Paul Howe and Travis Haley go into detail about zeroing the rifle.
Do you know how aperture sights work and how to use them?
If so, and your capable of keeping some manner of actual group at 100 yards, hopefully around 4":
I’d zero the iron sights first(a front sight tool will make things much easier but isn’t required,) using the small aperture(and remembering to keep your focus on the front sight) to where your point of aim and point of impact are the same at either 50 or 100 yards. Ideally you should confirm the windage/fine tune the 50 yard zero at 200, but I wouldn’t worry about that just yet.
You can complete that step with the Aimpoint mounted and pretending it’s not there when you use the irons, but if it wasn’t I’d mount it properly now. With some rifles, when you attain a sight picture the dot of a properly zeroed red dot will sit on top of your front sight post. You can use this knowledge to get you close, but remember that it’s not a 100% solution.
Remember to maintain all the fundamentals you used with the iron sights(cheek weld, grip, stance/position, and trigger control,) and zero the optic at the same distance that you used for the iron sights.
Five shot groups are a general rule for each string between checking the target, and most people prefer the prone position if they can get into it. If not, make sure that when you build your position on the bench, that you keep the same cheek weld/relationship to the sights that you will in other positions.
Some do, some don’t. At this point it’s irrelevant to you. If it helps you shoot better with it folded down, then for the purpose of zeroing your optic, go ahead and fold it down. Some schools of thought are that it should always be up so that if your optic goes down you have an immediately available solution…but you aren’t there yet. DO remember to use blue lock tight on it’s mounting screw if you haven’t already(same goes for mounting the Aimpoint.)
I will definitely check out
Here are some links to some very useful zeroing targets that I found on here earlier.
Both are made for zeroing Aimpoints to the 50/200 Improved Battlesight Zero. The 50 yard package also includes targets for the 2-MOA dot Aimpoint variants, though the T-1 is a 4-MOA sight. (You can still ring a 12x12" steel at 200 yards with one though.) I personally use the 25 yard version, since it’s easier to see clearly, at the expense of perhaps a slightly less precise zero. They’ll work for your irons too.
I’ll reiterate…be sure to use blue loctite (or Permatex thread locker…same thing) on the optics and the irons. Nothing more frustrating than not being able to hold a group, then realizing your optic is jiggling back and forth on the rail. (I’ve been there.)
I’ve also found that point of impact tends to change slightly with ammo type and brand. If I’m going to be shooting a large amount of a certain type, for a class or something, I’ll re-zero, with the optic taking precedence if pressed for time. The T-1 is pretty much bombproof, absent taking a round to it.
Enjoy!
I never really likes this method, but the Army loves it.
I’d also recommend zeroing your iron sights with the T-1 attached. Depending on which T-1 mount you have part of the rear sight aperture might be blocked by the bottom of the T-1; this could cause you to align the iron sights slightly differently than you would with the T-1 removed. Also, zero the iron sights with the small aperture.
Sgt, how do you zero? I’m asking out of curiostiy only.
Thanks for posting these targets man, I was using a ruler and this will make it much easier.
Glad to help…I can’t take credit for creating them, but the numbers on the grid actually amount to clicks on the Aimpoint, which makes life a whole lot easier than just guesstimation.
Before putting the optic on (or take it off) I zero the iron sights at 100M, then I put the red dot on and adjust it until it is sitting right on the top of the front post of the irons to get it close. Then fold the irons down and zero the red dot. With both an Amipoint T1 and and EOTech when I have finished zeroing both, the red dot sits right on the top of the front sight post when sighting with the irons. Lower 1/3 co-witness with LaRue mounts for both RDS.
Cameron
I zero my irons, then adjust the dot so it sits halfway up the front sight post. That way the center of the dot is the same as my irons.
This is a valid observation, especially with new shooters to the configuration. Depending on sight heights, you may or may not see the full circumference of the rear BUIS aperture, creating potential for some vertical misalignment. Usually, it’s not enough to make a big difference at closer ranges, but it can be substantial at distance.
Also, zero the iron sights with the small aperture.
I prefer the large, but as long as you make hits when and where you need them, gtg.
Thank you so much for your advice and referring me to panteao productions. That site is awesome…I’ve already learned a ton.
thanks again.
Anyone know of targets just like these for the T-1 but for 100 yards?
I’m no expert, but I agree. Given that the BUIS is basically an “emergency” backup sight, it makes sense that it will be used at close range if the optic goes down, hence the need for the large aperture since you can pick up targets more quickly, or at least in my humble civilian experience.
The small aperture IMHO is for more careful aimed longer range shots, which you might decide not to take in a civilian personal defense scenario.
I’m just philosophizing, but I’ve given this a lot of thought–agree or disagree.
You’re welcome, it’s good stuff.
I zeroed my T-1 first, since I didn’t have a rear sight once I took the carry handle off the 6920. Then I slapped on a magpul mbus, lined the front and rear sights up with the red dot (lower 1/3 co-witness), fired… perfect iron sight zero:D.