This is a Kimber that I bought new in 98. While I have had it a long time and shot just over 8000 rounds with it I have never done anything more than change the grips on it. What I want to do now is freshed it up and put some quality parts into it. My goal is to have a good carry gun. The changes that I wish to make are to change out a number of parts, specifically the main spring housing since the one in it is plastic. I want to get rid of the FLGR for a GI set up. New sights too. Put in a new trigger. Have the front checkered and then refenish the entire gun in a FDE finish. The point of the post is to try and determine if those changes alone will be enough or are there other items that should be replaced for good reasons? What I would like to do is gather parts that work well together and once done with that send it to a 1911 gunsmith to have everything fitted and finished. Another question would be is there a weld on rail tha could be added that works well? Thanks for the help.
Well, making a slew of changes is going to require you to go through more shooting for reliability. Because what you do may change change how it shoots. On my carries I prefer “If it ain’t broke don’t fix it”. So I’m often reluctant to change anything. So do your due diligence once changes are made that it is reliable and functions 100%.
I’d leave the plastic MSH. Reason - weight. For carry, a full size 1911 will get heavy. Made sure you’ve got a good rig for carry.
A FLGR - get it gone. I prefer the simplicity of the plug spring.
Trigger - ok. I never messed with my triggers much other than changing out for finger fit (I like GI short length vs mid or long). Find what works for you.
Weld on rail - eh, don’t do it. Seen it done, not a fan. Do you intend to be CCWing a fullsize 1911 with a light? I wouldn’t get tacticool with it. It takes the practicality of concealing a full size 1911. I can see it for a night stand gun, but carry is far from ideal. Also consider your holster options. Pretty much all makers build a railed 1911 holster. But fewer build with specific molds with lights. You’d almost be looking at a custom job. Just a consideration, look ahead.
Night sights - consider a set with a different front sight color for quicker sight acquisition (te fsp isn’t dancing outside the rears). Take into account the sight picture during daylight too. I found the white ring around the tritium vial uncrisp/clear. Just know what you’re getting for day and night to get the best your eyes can pick up.
I don’t think the plastic mainspring housing, as long as it holds up, will cause you any problems. I’m not a fan of plastic on a 1911, but there’s something to be said for weight savings.
I prefer the GI rod and plug versus the FLGR, and a good rod+plug setup is not expensive.
I like Heinie Straight Eight sights the best.
When you say “trigger”, do you just mean the bow and shoe, or do you mean the hammer/sear/disconnect package as well?
I’ve had a kimber from 1997 rebuilt by a well regarded gunsmith. It was a great gun before, it was even better later, with a Kart barrel, checkering, new sights, and refinishing. If the base gun is solid, I see no drawbacks getting it suited for your PERSONAL needs.
p.s. I carry a 1911 with a dawson rail and a surefire x300, IWB. 15 hours with it yesterday, 18 hours the day before. It can be done. Rigs are hard to come by. But IF it suits your needs, you can make it work. All it takes is effort, money, and the resolve to find/create a solution.
ETA: if you’re going to go with an add-on rail. there are more carry rigs available for the MARS/Dawson rail than any other. and those are few and far between. if you go with the Novak or Caspian rail, your kydex (because no one wants to do leather) rig will be custom. Duty rigs are avaiable in sizes that fit the novak or caspian rail, even if they weren’t designed as such. my dawson railed colt also fits in many of my standard leather holsters, sans light, of course.
Thanks everyone. To answer a few questions, I would like the trigger (bow & shoe) changed only for cosmetic reasons. I know that’s not the best reason to do anything, however I would like another. Thanks for the tip on a new barrel, this one has been shot quite a bit, the Kart is probably the way I will go.
As far as carrying the gun with a light I dont mind it at all. My current set up is a M&P 45 with a X300. I have found good holster makers and at 6’2" and 220 lbs it just doesn’t bother me. I was thinking a full size rail but will look into the Dawson.
Thanks again, I am still wanting as many good tips as I can before it gets sent off, which wont be a month or so.
You might also wish to change the length of the shoe (long vs medium vs short). Also, there are flat versus curved triggers. Some guys swear by their flat triggers as they say it makes the trigger press much more uniform regardless of where your finger lands on the trigger.
What holster do you use for that? Pancake style like RCS?
And OP, I have very little experience with upgraded parts (only switched the thumb safety in my Colt so far), but if you’re going to spend the money, I don’t think Wilson Combat Bullet Proof parts can be recommended enough.
If your gun has been reliable but just has a bunch of rounds through it, the only thing I would do is replace the springs and leave it alone. I believe Wolff sells a spring kit.
