Taking a new, unfired carbine to range tomorrow.
I know what I normally do…but for the new ones, and in case IM missing something, or doing something wrong, would love to hear everyones initial tests for reliability, function, ect.
usually i shoot it a few times with some birdshot, drag it behind my truck for a few miles and end it by blowing it up with 10 pounds of tannerite.
If it still shoots straight after that, then it’s a keeper.
- Disassemble and remove all factory preservative
- Lube
- Perform lock back check
- Insert fully loaded magazine and begin shooting
Thats exactly what I do now…thanks! Always wondered if I was missing something else…
Its a good idea to not shoot a dry barrel. Run a patch with a few drops of oil followed by a dry patch before shooting.
Would modify step 4 to two rounds.
Then if those both fire when I want them to and the bolt locks back, I go with a full mag.
Unless that lock back check you speak of is this. I read it to be manually checking with the lower separated from the upper.
You are correct on both counts. The lock back check verifies function of the the manual lock back and last round lock back.
I did forget to put “reassembly” on the list!
You could also do a function check of the fire control group.
Dry fire the rifle and continue holding the trigger down. Cycle the bcg and release the trigger until you hear a click. Dry fire again.
Load mags, go to range. All the function testing I do when I’m looking at the firearm
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MistWolf - I had a duh moment and released that I did not include the lock back check in patrol rifle function checks.
Do steps 11 and 12 accurately depict what you refer to as a lock back check function check? Of course this is after assembly before going to the range.
FUNCTION CHECK
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Ensure weapon is clear, safety on.
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Open action and release.
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Pull trigger. Hammer should not fall as the safety is engaged.
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Selector on SEMI. Pull trigger. Hammer should fall.
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Keeping trigger pulled to rear. Cycle action.
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Hammer should not fall. Release trigger to ensure it has reset.
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Selector on AUTO. Pull trigger and hold to rear. Hammer should fall.
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Keeping trigger to rear, cycle action. Hammer should fall each time bolt cycles forward.
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Release trigger and cycle. Trigger should reset.
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Check burst groups in same manner, counting to ensure proper function.
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Pull charging handle fully to the rear, depress bottom of bolt catch, hold in place and then release the charging handle. Bolt catch should retain action locked to rear.
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Insert EMPTY magazine, rapidly and firmly pull charging handle to rear, stripping it from your fingers (to approximate the action of a round firing). The magazine follower should activate the bolt catch, locking the action to the rear… *
- Step 12 should be repeated with all duty magazines. Ensure magazines are EMPTY when performing this check.
Make sure nothing is in the bore. I’ve seen everything from powder residue to little shards of cardboard (no kidding!).
I also check to make sure the bolt carrier key and receiver extension castle nut are properly staked. I did have a receiver extension come loose from improper staking and/or tightening on a first range trip.
I recommend checking the part of the gas tube that comes into the receiver. One brand new AR I purchased twenty years ago or so had some grease or something inside the tube as it came from the factory. I’m not sure if the first round fired would have melted that grease and I would never have noticed it, but I cleaned it out with a pipe cleaner anyway.
I do this with every gun I get, I’m always surprised on how many little shards of metal I find.
Definitely should test the FCG as mentioned above, but I’d do it with the upper removed.
With the safety on fire, cock hammer, pull trigger, (catch the hammer so it doesn’t slam into the receiver. Keeping the trigger pulled, manually pull the hammer back until caught by the disconnector. Slowly release the trigger. The hammer should slide out from under the disconnector’s hook and be caught by the sear. If the timing is off, the sear won’t catch and it’ll fire on trigger release. Last AR I bought (as a complete rifle for around $1k) had this defect. This is not a pleasant defect to discover at the range when test firing.
While doing this, obviously also make sure the safety “works” as intended.
Yes. But you forgot Step 13
13) Load one round in mag. Insert mag in magwell, load rifle and fire. Carrier should lock back.
Step 14 would be to insert a fully loaded magazine and test fire for function until the mag is empty and locks back. All rifles should test fired with a fully loaded magazine before being put to use.
FYI, if you immediately do a “load 1 round and in magazine, fire then check for lock back” as the first round fired, many people will think their brand new AR is broken. Your brand new AR may only start to lock back after the last round until after a few mags.
Reason is that a brand new AR is virgin tight. The parts need time to wear on each other and it doesnt help that both phosphate and anodizing are very rough finishes.
In fact, I had that very problem with a new 6933 but it didn’t take long for it to settle in. Still, the lock back check makes a good starting point.
That would be ideal, but hard on the range house/armory.
You might want to observe the processes of extraction and ejection by allowing someone else to fire it as you stand behind them and observe.
Basic stuff should be done before range (headspace, lock back, safety manipulation, muzzle device tension, gas block screws). At the range I mag dump with m193. Mag dump with shit steel or anemic 223 (PMC Bronze). Watch ejection, feel consistency of recoil. Accuracy test with something good like CBC 5.56 77gr, Geco 223, IMI 69gr, or AE 50gr varmint. Sometimes I do a stringing test with a 5 shot group, a mag dump, and a 5 shot group.
Whats the best option to remove factory preservatives? Probably in my best interest to get a cleaning kit, any recommendations?