My Noveske

AR/M4 AR General Discussion
1

Got the lower today and the upper in yesterday.

■14.5″ Cold Hammer Forged Barrel, 1 in 7″ twist, 5.56mm
■Made of Mil Spec M249 Machine Gun barrel steel, with heavy M249 Chrome Lining, (appx. 2 times as thick as an M4 or M16)
■Extended Feed Ramps
■Mil Spec Phosphate finish
■Same weight as M4 barrel, 1 lb, 9 oz, but improved contour for maximum rigidity, no M203 notch
■MP HP tested with certification
■Carbine length gas system
■AAC Blackout M4-2000

The lower is a RRA. Nothing to special.

Went to the range today and was really impressed with the quilty of the upper and its ability to shoot far better then i ever could. Bouncing a pop can around at 75yrds with irons really wasnt very hard to do after i got my back sight dialed in. Still have some work to do on my groups on paper, but that soda can sure was dead.

Nothing changed yet in this picture(will delete at a later time, would like to show the difference as it progresses)

Would like to change out the front sight gas block with a low profile gas block, maybe a 10’‘-12’’ FF rail.

Scott

add few new things, more to come!!

CTR stock and grip add-on
Changed out the grip with a black one, and picked up a CTR… Now im just waiting on some rails to attach my flashlight and have a eotech on order. Then i think my defense weapon will be complete.

Oh and the bag in the old pick was huge, so i returned it and got something smaller. amazing what my camera can do, same carpet in the background, just different camera settings.

Eotech

got a great deal on a brand new Eotech

Ok heres the flashlight… Now all i need is a decent sling and maybe a nice forward grip to complete what im looking for in this rifle.

2

nice rifle, going to be hard to swap out the site tower and hand guard if the vortex is permanent. Is it welded, brazed, pinned?

3

people tend to overlook the “Permanently installed” part when they order :o

I also have one in the safe, Im too lazy to go look :stuck_out_tongue:

4

Your flash hider is most likely permanently installed, making it impossible to take your front sight off. You can cut down the front sight to just the right height to put railed handguards over it or have a gunsmith take off your flash hider and install railed handguards and then perm attach a new flash hider.

5

Very nice shooter you’ve got there.

6

That’s also not a Vortex flash hider - it’s an AAC Blackout M4-2000 suppressor mount. It looks good, but I’m not so sure I’d have permanently pinned a suppressor mount unless I already owned that specific suppressor.

That aside though, it looks sexy. How are the gun laws in AK, if I may ask?

7

I guess your right, I didn’t think about the flash hider being permanently attached. I guess I could shave down the front sight tower so a longer rail could fit.

Sky, I really don’t know much about the gun laws in alaska. Iv always had a gun since I could remember. But just never paid any attention to the local guns laws. I guess now that I’m getting into the SBR area, I should probably start doing my homework. Would hate to have the gun I own and any future guns taken away, and have the label a felon because I was to lazy to care what I was buying and shooting.

On that note, I took out a tape measure just to see what the exact length of my barrel was, and I was right at 16". Is it consider to be a SBR if the flash hider isn’t permently attached? Thank you for sharing for those who posted.

Scott

8

Ok so yesterday i picked up a Ncstar 3x9 compact scope for 150bucks local. Wasnt what i thought it would be. The scope worked well after about hour and half of messing with it. I was shooting from 100-150ft with my irons, so it was kind of close for the scope. Its pre settings took some time to zero. After i got it dailed in, i was shooting well.

It sat really low on my flat top. Would be prefect with a scope raiser. Without it, the front tower sat just below my crosshairs. Wasnt co-witnessing at all, the front tower was blurry even at the min power(3x).

Bench rest, there was no different in groups between irons and scope other then i was able to see where i was hitting with the scope. Free standing, the scope was hard to keep steady, seem like it wanted to jump around lot. The irons out did the scope imo, i was able to acquire the target much quicker for the follow up shot. Im sure with a much more expensive scope, it would make the bouncing and jumping around much less a factor.

Im still thinking about keeping the scope, but the irons have me all the way. Iv always thought it would be cool to have a 200-400 scope or red dot, but really… It doesnt make you a better shooter. Just easier with the proper use.

Scott

9

A 3-9 power scope isn’t meant to co-witness with your front sight at all. And YES it is a SBR if your flash hider isn’t permanently fixed to the barrel, Noveske typically pins and welds theirs in place to avoid NFA issues. You do know the proper way to measure the barrel length don’t you? That barrel should be longer than 16" with that flash hider. Measure from the bolt face to the end of the flash hider if it is permanently attached. I use a cleaning rod and feed it down the barrel until it touches the bolt face, then mark the end of the barrel on the rod with a sharpie.

10

It is permently attach. That’s good to know about how to properly measure my barrel, I just took a rough measure.

11

I have a 14.5 inch pinned Vortex, no regrets. Get a DD Omega 7inch or 12.0 FSB, a RDS and it dont get no better. Your only concern should be getting time to shoot it, and money to pay for ammo and classes. The upper is perfect.

12

How is he gonna put a DD 12.0 FSB on with a pinned muzzle device? The 12.0 FSB uses a proprietary barrel nut that requires removal of the FSB and muzzle device for installation.

13

Yeah iv put some thought in this. I’d have to take of the flash hider, then replace or shave my fixed front sight. Eithe way it sounds way above my know how. Maybe if I could shave the front tower down and not have to mod anything else, I might cosider doing it myself.

I’d also not want to bring the value of the upper down, and shaving the tower down would probably effect it a little. But why break or destory a already good thing. This Magpul MOE handguard might have to be it. All I need is some way to attach a flash light and maybe a grip, which the MOE will allow.

Scott

14

It’s a brand new rifle - step away from the dremel :slight_smile: and leave the FSB alone! An excellent setup is an Aimpoint set to co-witness with your irons. Your next rifle will probably have a longer barrel, anyway.

If you want a rail, the 7" Omega will install w/o removing anything. Mine is a Noveske N4 Reece Basic (16") with a 9" Omega rail, but you get the picture. The mount gives a 1/3 lower co-witness, btw.

15

No, it would destroy the value of the upper altogether.

16

I really hope you’re being sarcastic, or your statement is just idiotic. It might not seem like a nice thing to say, but there’s really no other way of saying it.

17

Yeah I’m pretty sure there will be no cutting or trimming on the rifle. It’s such a great shoot without optics, im probably going to stick with the irons and invest in a decent FF 2 pc rail. I do like the extended rail DD makes for carbine gas systems.

Again thank you for sharif your .02 cents in the matter,

Scott

18

The majority of the Noveske’s value comes from it’s off-the-shelf boutique-like pricing coupled with the quality in which it was assembled. In other words, they’re commercial parts put together after the fact by professionals and people pay for that fact. If you put an all-Noveske-parts self-built gun next to a Noveske-built Noveske rifle, the factory built will ALWAYS sell for more (unless of course, the parts gun is a licensed Noveske dealer), as well as carry a warranty.

If you cut down the FSB, you’ve just destroyed any value the upper had as a Noveske upper. The rails are not optimal for sight radius, so you’ll need a new rail if you want to use BUIS (otherwise, it was absolutely stupid to cut it down). The flash-hider is also permanently pinned, meaning a new FSB can’t be replaced by any future buyers without having to buy a new FH, drill, weld, and refinish it.

By the time you payed to get the gun back to like-new condition (or even just have a new FSB), you’re out $200. Coupled with the fact that it’s used, you’re losing another $200-300. That’s $500 of value lost simply from cutting down the FSB. You’re better off selling it as parts (barrel, rails, etc) and recouping the money that way.

Like I said, you’ll destroy it’s value.

19

So a used 14.5in Noveske Basic Carbine with a shaved front sight block is only worth $700? I just don’t believe that to be true. But, maybe that is all it’s worth to you.

I’d rather not argue about it, because it just comes down to what you would value something at and what I would value something at, and I don’t believe either of us will ever see the same thing.

20

It should be between $875 - 775, not $700 [$1,275 - 400 = $875 and $1,275 - 500 = $775]. I don’t think that’s unreasonable at all.

And yes, I’d rather spend an extra $400-500 on an upper (in fact, I have) to know it was put together correctly instead of buying one that had its FSB sloppily dremeled off and touched up with a sharpie, and God knows what else done to it.