I just received my Smith Enterprises muzzle brake from Brownells. I’m installing it on my S&W M&P 15T. First, I need some advice on removing the factory flash hider. Second, instead of a crush washer, the brake came with a washer with 2 wrench flats. Will I be able to index the brake and get it tight and keep the washer’s wrench flats aligned with those on the brake? Thanks.
Bob
Still trying to get the existing flash hider off. S&W hasn’t replied to my email yet. I’ve looked very closely and I don’t see a pin. Can anyone offer any suggestions please?!?
Bob
The new washer has wrench flats?
All you need is a 3/4" wrench or the one that is on an armorer’s wrench. Threads are right hand so if you are looking at the gun from the muzzle end, turn it counter clockwise. I’m assuming you are clamping the barrel in a bench vise? If need be, get a pipe that will fit over your wrench and use it as a breaker bar. I really hope they are not using red loctite or something similar otherwise you should heat it up to make removal easier.
The new washer has wrench flats?
Yes. The washer that shipped with the Smith Enterprises brake is about 3/16" thick and has two wrench flats on it. Kind of like a jam nut. I talked to Brownells and they said that is correct for that item.
All you need is a 3/4" wrench or the one that is on an armorer’s wrench. Threads are right hand so if you are looking at the gun from the muzzle end, turn it counter clockwise. I’m assuming you are clamping the barrel in a bench vise? If need be, get a pipe that will fit over your wrench and use it as a breaker bar. I really hope they are not using red loctite or something similar otherwise you should heat it up to make removal easier.
That is exactly what I’ve been trying to do. I’m not able to keep the upper from turning. I dremmeled some wooden blocks to roughly match the barrel diameter and clampped the p@#s out of it and when I use the wrench with the cheater bar on it, the upper eventually turns.
The existing FH looks like it has a regular crush washer and no pin. I just can’t hold the barrel tight enough to get the FH to budge. Any ideas?
Thanks for the replies!
Bob
If you can post pics of the new brake and washer.
Do you have this brake? If so you can use regular crush or peel washer to time it correctly.
If it’s a Vortex like below it doesn’t need any washer and only a small amount of torque (a washer and too much torque will damage it), I usually install them hand tight and never use a washer.
You are going to need the aluminum barrel block (clamps to barrel) or the armourers action block (wraps around receiver). My first choice would be the barrel blocks. The improvised wooden fixture can’t hold the barrel in place.
This is the brake that I have. My first problem is getting the original flash hider off. I think I need either a barrel clamp or action block like FALbert suggested. I’ll try and see if I can borrow one. Thanks again for the replies and suggestions!
Bob
Wrap leather around the front sight base and clamp that in a bench vise.
This has worked very well for me and does not rely on barrel vise blocks that leave ugly aluminum marks on barrels.
Excellent idea! I’m assuming you mean to wrap it and place it directly in the vise jaws and not use the wooden blocks. I’ll try that tonight. Thanks for the suggestion!
Bob
Yea! I finally got the flash hider off and no damage or marks on my rifle. I took AR15barrels suggestion and wrapped the barrel with heavy leather. The rifle has a Troy FF handguard and Troy folding BUIS so there is no front sight base to clamp against. I wrapped 2 layers of leather for about 6" just behind the FH and really tightened my vise on it and smacked the wrench and it broke free. I couldn’t get the included washer to line up, so I just used a crush washer. It looks great. I’ll shoot it Friday morning. I’m interested to see how well it works. Thanks for your help.
Bob
Shot about 190 rounds yesterday. Got it dialed back in on paper, then shot prairie dogs until the afternoon wind really picked up. No change in accuracy whatsoever. 
The rifle really sits still very nicely. I shot both factory Federal 50 gr HP (Wally World) and my reloaded Hornady 50 gr V-Max over TAC loads. My reloads are a bit hotter than the factory and worked more effectively with the brake (more gas pressure to work on the ports and baffle). I was able to observe hits on PD’s through the scope. Pretty cool. The farthest confirmed hit was something over 250 yards. I was happy with that from a 16" factory barrel. I can now recommend the Smith brake pictured above.
Bob