Mora Knives Only

I just finished Cody Lundin’s 98.6 Degrees, The Art of Keeping Your ASS ALIVE! (Great Book)

He clearly likes and uses Mora Knives. I have read about them little on this website but there isn’t enough info on them. Most of the info here and there regarding the topic is limited to “I like them and they are cheap” posts (unless I missed something).
I went ahead and ordered three Frosts Mora Knives from ASE Best Glide based on Cody’s recommendations in the book. He only designated about two pages to the knife so I thought we could compile more information here.
Why did you buy one?
What do you like/dislike about them?
How long has it lasted?
What are the limitations?
Best way to sharpen?
Is there a best brand/style?
Best carry method?
How do you use them?
…And any other good info…

As the title reads “Mora Knives Only” please don’t cloud up the thread with anything not pertaining to Mora-style Knives.

D

Do you happen to know the steel material? For that price, if they have quality steel I’ll definitely have to grab one.

I have CLippers with both Stainless and carbon blades love them been using and abusing them for years as woods and camp and hunting knives and just usually strop them up and they are back to hair popping sharpness. I made my own simple kydex sheaths or use factory ones I carry them in my man bag that is always with me. Its funny when you use and abuse a knife that is this cheap its hard to go to top dollar ones. These have their place. The Mora or Frost is the SAK of the fixed blade world. Is there better yes but these are really good

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It has been years since I kept up with knives but I think the Mora’s used a “sandwiched” steel. Two soft layers of steel that support a hard steel in the center. I think it was a Swedish? composition.

I don’t know about Frost now but years ago, they generally only had r-e-a-l-l-y cheap knives. I think he was kin to Jim Parker or something like that.

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I have a Mora in my car kit. It’s not a bad knife for the price. I’ve had mine for 10 years now and it just needs a resharpening after chopping small branches with it. I have 3 brand new ones in backup since they are so cheap. Don’t get me wrong I love my Spydercos, but you can’t beat the Mora for a cheap camp knife.

Looks good enough to try for $15.
Hope this helps:

Different Steels Grades from Frosts

The Clipper is Sandvik Stainless

Ease of sharpening in the field is apparently one of the reasons these knives are so popular (besides the cost). In Lundin’s book he goes into why it sharpens easy but IIRC he states heavy use will make them require frequent sharpening.
D

Yeah actual steel information was what I was looking for. Thanks for the links

EDIT:

I found the information you seek: It’s Sandvik 12C27.

I bought 3, one for both my vehicles and one for my brother who is an avid backpacker.

Hopefully that link will help; my Google-Force is strong today.

Here’s the link I use to research knife steel from Bladeforums.com. Thanks for your due diligence.

At my primitive living and survival skills school here in Maine, we reccomend the carbon steel Mora’s to people for a first knife. They are cheap, and amazing quality. (keeps an edge and very durable) this lets students use and abuse the knife cheaply and then once they have used it enough to decide what they like and dislike about it, they can spend the money to buy a more expenisive knife. Also work as back up knives/kit knives.

Some of the things i do not like (though for the price i still love em)…

Not full tang. This is a big no-no for a survival knife for me. Most models are partial tang. Many cheap knives are atleast Pin Tang. This is where the tang does travel the length of the handle but it is significantly narrower then the blade itself (like a ka-bar). Ether way, this results in a weak point at the blade/handle junction. Though i would rather have a full tang, ill admit ive never broken one.

The sheath. The sheath is absolutely terrible. What do you expect for a 10-15 dollar knife but still. Not something i like to carry on me. Fine for a bugout bag or car. The rentention is sketchy at best and not something you want to roll/jump around with.

The blade shape Though mora offers many models, the common ones utalize a Clip Point blade. This results in a pointyer blade which many do desire for stabbing bad guys. I have a folder and an M&Pc for poking holes in people so its not important to me. Id rather my bushcraft/survival knife have a beefier tip (IE DROP POINT) to withstand more abuse.

The carbon steel one rocks for heavy bushcraft use, but obviously will rust if not cleaned and oiled. Because of this it is sometimes tricky to include them in seldom opened survival kits. I do, but i lube the hell out of them with motor oil (nice and thick) or bicycle chain grease. And check them/ reoil them whenever i remember too.

My lifestyle does not allow me to carry a sheath knife on me 24/7 so i have to downgrade to a folder. However a fixedblade is really the way to go for SHTF and survival.

Great post, Neo. I’ll definitely take all that into consideration. How often do you have to sharpen yours?

hmm thats a tough question. When i am using mine while in the bush or teaching a class, i will “sharpen” it after 4-5 days. However i sometimes will “steel and strop” my knife after uses which allows me to go longer with out sharpening. I also like my knife very very sharp, and use it very heavily. I know students that carry one and use it a few times a day and havent had to sharpen it yet.

Keep in mind if im teachign something like friction fire i will be continuously fixing peoples notches and carving sets for almost 2 hours. So my level of use is different then most.

Carbon holds an edge way better then stainless steel though, and the single bevel of a mora is the tits. Most american knives youll find have a double bevel that is inferior in my opinion. I do love moras, and for the price point they cant be beat. The knives that i like better then moras are around 200$ per knife. This buys me full tang, beefier tip, and better sheath. Though not neccisarily a better steel or edge. Hard to get that when compared to a mora

NeoNeanderthal, thank you for your first hand information.

Which model/blade length do you recommend NeoNeanderthal?

I found many different versions.

I have a couple of Moras running around. I have a thrasher Kellam that I have my students use for specific cutting tasks and an ornate Helle that I wear/use when I am a acting like a “local” at work.

I love them for their feel and keen edge. I do not, however, use them as a general purpose survival knive. I use them for fine cutting and specific purposes.

Got my first mora for 5 bucks at gunshow. Had a problem with rust with carbon steel mora on a backpacking trip.

There is a group of Mora lovers that hang out at the Bushcraft USA forums (http://bushcraftusa.com/forum), and who get good results from them.

If you’re looking for a great resource to find Moras and other Scandinavian style knives, here’s a great resource:

http://www.ragweedforge.com/

I went with the Mora 2000 because it has one of the longest tangs. From the X-ray pictures I’ve seen it is a 3/4 tang.

I think it is some kind of mystique thing with the Mora… A stated above in another post, there are some serious shortcomings in making a Mora a “primary” knife, especially a primary survival knife… And this is coming from one with Swedish bloodlines…

For an extra blade tossed here and there (vehicle, tool box, fishing box, desk drawer, etc…), then it seems it fits the bill…

Rmpl