so i just got a bottle of militec at a local gun shop. people there told me it was the shit… well guess what it sucks ass… rust protection sucks.
lube wise it’s good did a heat treatment thing the recommended and it did leave a film. but i would not use it to store my rifles specially my antics. i am talking about an 11mm Mauser or 6.5 Swedish or mass 36 in 7.5 french. all in immaculate condition
let me point out something about the penetration bonding thing. as a mechanical eng. i studied extensively materials and especially metals.
metals are crystals. on the surface of any metal depending on how polished it gets u have pit’s. i think that the militec fills those pits making the finish a lot better. a better finish equals less friction.
i am sorry about the language but having spent my hard earned money on snake oil pisses me off.
on the other hand i found that landrover swivel grease is nlgi0 ( liquid at room temp) and contains 3% moly i may try that and see how it goes over all
Have you looked at Gunbutter? I’ve had very good results with it and have run some comparative frictional and environmental tests with it and some other brands of firearm lubricants and the results were very positive. Fully synthetic and works at both ends of the temperature extremes.
I think Ive read that somewhere in the past. I think it may have to do with the recommended application method.
Keep us posted on the land rover grease. Im interested to see how well it does.
You could also give bug juice a try. It’s a mix of: 1 part fully synthetic engine oil
1 part ATF
1 part STP Motor oil treatment
10% Hoppe’s #9 solvent.
The original thread recommended mobil 1 10w30 but I think any fully synthetic oil should do. I used a 10w diesel engine oil.
I used to use Militec almost exclusively and it worked pretty well as a lube. Until I found out it didn’t have any anti-corrosion properties. I mixed it with a royal purple synthetic motor oil. It works well.
Weapons shield and Slip EWL also works very well.
Militec is an great lube but shoddy at rust prevention. I use CLP or Hoppes gun oil when I wipe down my weapons and then lube w/ Militec. FYI that whole heat treating thing is BS, just use it like regular lube and you’ll be fine.
I consider this lube to be a “dry” lube. Heat part, aply…repeat a couple more times, wipe off as much as you can off the weapon, now your gun is ready for the sand box. The good thing about it is that it doesnt leave your gun gunky and full of dirt. Here in the states this is not nessesary and thats why I use slip 2000 ewl.
So-called “dry” lubes are popular mainly among those who don’t understand how lubrication really works.
liquid lubes are designed to:
reduce friction
protect
cool
cushion
clean, through swiping action
So-called “dry” lubes really cannot do all those things. In fact, at most they can do 1 and 2, IF they can even do that.
Liquid lube does not attract sand and dust to the detriment to lubricity, if used in sufficient quantity. The clearanced parts will swipe the entrained solids suspended in the lube, keeping them out of the critical areas.
Residual lubricity, should you burn off your liquid lube through heat is desirable, but shouldn’t be the primary function of your lube.
i got a bottle of that stuff when i bought my AR, and was using it pretty religiously… then i decided it was snake oil, and stopped using it (CLP instead).
seemed fine with the CLP til about the 3rd range trip, then i noticed that the locking action of my bolt was substantially grittier/harder, due to gas ring friction. so i’m thinking that whole “dry lube that stays on” thing has some truth to it.
I tend to go with CLP for corrosion protection, and militec for wear points. about all i really shoot these days are glocks, so corrosion protection isn’t a big thing.
i’d say that militec is an excellent AR lube, as corrosion is rarely an issue with these guns, all anodized and park’d.
just my personal experience.
i’d like to give a gun grease a whirl at some point…
edit- i leave the militec wet on both glock and AR. not sure if this is “bad” or what… it seems to be a nice reasonably thick oil. the protection after it burns off is a bonus.
Mil-Comm MC3000 is a semi-fluid that I use more than the straight oil. It’s not quite grease, but it is thicker than plain oil. Seems very resistant to burn-off. I have run 1k+ in a day without relubing in a class once just as an experiment. Started with the BCG pretty well slathered in MC3000. At the end of the day, it was still running 100%, though starting to dry a little bit. I think it would have made it through the next day, though I relubed (without cleaning) in the morning.
I have some militec, machinegunners lube and some SLIP as well.
These are not my go-to lubricants. I’ve been using Mobil 1 for years. Works well at below zero temps. Wear doesn’t seem to be any more or less of an issue, reliability seems to be just as good as the three aforementioned lubes. The big bonus is that I pour the Mobil 1 from the quart container into smaller squeeze bottles. Works like a charm and is far cheaper than the expensive lubes without sacrificing reliability.
I use Militec and it does work pretty well for a lube. The moving parts get a base lube of Militec every 3 or so cleanings and with every cleaning I wipe the same area with a light coat of CLP for corrosion protection. Works well for me.
I tried Miltec only once…I lubed up the slide and barrel of an M&P and put it in the oven for the heat treatment part. I used one of the wifes brand new nonstick bake pans and this is no lie…it had dripped onto the pan, ate the non stick coating off and left some kind of corrosion on that spot while in the oven! I scrubbed it off the slide/barrel and never used that stuff again. It might be the slickest snot in the world but after doing that I will never find out. And does anyone else think this stuff smells absolutely horrible?