I haven’t been able to shoot my SBR yet but the tax stamp is finished and I will be able to shoot it in July. When dry cycling it it feels pretty gritty. I have an on target stripped lower a CMMG lpk ALG Defense ACT trigger Raptor charging handle yankee hill nickel boron bcg magpul ubr and LMT upper. I am not 100% sure on what it is but I feel like the UBR tube has something to do with it. I was curious to see what can be done to smooth out the cycling. What do y’all do?
Lube the gun. Shoot the gun. It will work itself out.
I’m not being coy. Shooting it should smooth it out.
Ya, I figured that would help but was just curious to see if there were any other tricks
What buffer are you using? I would also consider tossing the NiB BCG. I have also been hearing reports that LMT is not sticking to their .071 gas port sizing with their 10.5" uppers, which is what I assume you have.
Not sure on the buffer. It is unbranded
When I say buffer type, I mean carbine, H, H2 or H3. If you look at the face of the buffer it will either be plain (carbine), or marked H, H2 or H3. I would start with H2 and probably bump it to H3.
It’s plain
Ok, then see guidance above.
As for the grittiness, it’s the phosphate on phosphate or phosohate on anodized grinding. Once you shoot it, the proper areas will smooth themselves out. Every new ar I’ve cycled felt like that. After 100rds or so will be way different than new.
Is your LMT an MRP upper? If so, or you using a bolt-on BAD lever on the bolt release? If so, remove it. I had failures of the bolt going into battery do to this. The MRP receivers are built a little wider than the standard AR receivers, and a bolt-on BAD lever like Magpuls and push the bolt release out some, causing the bolt to ride on the bolt hold inside the upper.
Look into a JP Enterprises spring. http://www.jprifles.com/buy.php?item=JPS-OSC
Do not toss the NiB BCG
Like was said above: run it for a while and it will settle in. I tend to over lube new rifles with heavier grease to ensure stray particles get caught.
Grease if for your M1 Garand and M14, oil/CLP for the AR.
See responses in bold.
Why toss a part for no reason?
Ever heard of assembly lube when putting together an engine? If the OPs rifle is rough then the “run it and it will work itself out” is good advice. Think about what is happening when you do that though. You’re wearing the parts in which means wearing the surfaces. The material that’s worn off has to go somewhere, might as well be put into suspension and prevented from flowing back onto the surface it was worn off of.
Grease is not rubbing compound, depending on the grease…
You’re thinking too hard dude.
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Just here to offer help
After you put a few hundred rounds through it, evaluate if it needs “smoothing out”. Many things will wear together during cycling.
I bought a PSA buffer tube for one of my builds. It was gritty at first but smoothed out after five to six hundred rounds. I suspect that could be part of your problem. It’s still not as smooth as my LMT but it’s better.
Frog Lube. If you follow the instructions correctly, it’s freakin awesome. Cleanup is easy and lubricity is excellent.
Putting lots of rounds through it is the most fun way to smooth it out.