making a kimber run good

so ive been doing a lot of reading and i see alot of kimber haters. in sept of 2010 i orderd a kimber tact entry II. this was before reading up on all the horror stories. ive already paid for it and i should recieve any time. my question is what parts need to get replaced to make this thing run like a champ. i already have a first gen desert worrior and that thing is a tank. never had a hickup. but i read alot about the newer kimbers arent up to snuff

you’ve been waiting for it for a year and half?..

lol sorry i ment sept 2011 im rather not happy about it. i should have just bought my dd mark18 insted. would have had it by now

Hard to say what parts “need replacing” without your having the gun in hand. You may just need to tune up a few things. OR, perhaps you’ll have to have all the parts refitted/replaced/retuned by a very good smith. Hard to say without having the gun in your hand and with some rounds downrange to check function.

Get it in your hands, burn 500 or 1000 rounds with it, keep notes of failures/problems and then after 1000 rounds see where it stands. Hopefully you’ll save yourself some money and time by only chasing real problems that you’ve documented instead of chasing potential issues that some dude on the internet had with the same mass produced gun. (and I saw this as the owner of 2 Kimbers, one of which is my EDC- so I’m not a Kimber hater, but not a fanboy either; once my new custom 1911 arrives in 30 days or so one of the Kimbers is going to get sold).

sound advise. thank you

If you start changing parts and filing on it, you will void your warranty so I would pretty much just leave it alone and shoot it.

If it it was my gun, I would check the length of the feed ramp and then polish it (if needed). Then check the spacing of the throat to the feed ramp. Next, polish the roof of the barrel hood (if needed).

Check the case length of the barrel, check the staking on the plunger tube, tension on the extractor and to see if the tip of the extractor is touching the casing body.

I could go on and on…

C4

please do im bookmarking this page as we speek so i can go right back to it when the black sheep finaly arives

LOL, there are just so many things to check and on top of that, if you don’t know what you are looking for, you are just wasting your time.

Take it to a KNOWN quality 1911 pistolsmith and have them look it over (which I am not).

C4

ok fair enough. thanks for all your inpute

You are welcome.

C4

You are really going to need to shoot it first. It could be just fine and not need anything. I’ve got a Kimber Custom II with the dreaded external extractor and its up over 10,000 rounds with the factory parts in it and still humming along. Three areas that are common problems with Kimbers are (a) they are magazine sensative; mine likes Chip McCormick Power Mags and Tripp Research Cobra mags. (b) they have tight chambers (c) the barrels are throated improperly. After having a couple issues early on follow by some minor tweaks, my Kimber has been 100% for a very long time.

Good advice and you should follow it. Run about 500-1000 rounds through it. It will either run 'em without issue and you are GTG or it will choke at some point and that will tell you what needs fixing. Good luck!
:cool:

You should run 500-1000 rounds through every pistol/revolver/rifle you own before changing anything with the gun.

Sound advice. Why change out parts you “think” might need to be changed out until they actually break? There isn’t a weapon out there that won’t break a part from time to time if you shoot it a lot. Changing parts just to change parts because the internet know it alls said so, is just an exercise in wallet emptying. Shoot the damn thing!

Use a good lubricant. I’m getting good results with Frog Lube on my Kimbers. They are running just as good dirty as freshly cleaned, and that’s with Winchester white box (only 2 boxes left in the inventory - thank God).

Friends don’t let friends buy Kimber.

Sell it as soon as you pick it up. It will be inexpensive. Pay now or pay later. Take stellar pics, write a good ad, and post on various forums.

Since you dig a rail I’m thinking either MC OP or TRP OP. A little effort, but no big deal.

Assuming it needs work, how much $$$ do you guys think it would take to get his kimber up to snuff (replacing MIM parts and what not)?

A lot. Once again, if you do this, you are voiding your warranty.

C4

True but from what I have heard from some Kimber owners, it doesn’t have a lot of value. :wink:

Well that could be true, but I am not going down that road. :wink:

C4

Why not place a call to Rogers Precision and get a ballpark estimate from a real custom gunsmith? He can at least put a rough number to it, and you might just get some solid advice which will save you money in the long run. Since Chuck customizes a lot of 1911’s including Kimber, I would imagine that his opinion holds greater sway than the internet wannabes.