Mr. Defoor,
With your real world knowledge and experiences in the Navy I was curious as to what, in your opinion is the most efficient design for a rifle based off the M4 platform? A standard M4 with SOPMOD enhancements or a full custom RECCE or SPR rifle? A rifle you feel could be used to make accurate shot placements from CQB distances all the way out to what you consider to be the max effective range of the 5.56 cartridge.
Thank you.
16" Heavy Barrel
mid length gas system
A2 hider unless going suppressed
12" rail or tube
100 lumen light
collapsable buttstock
flip down irons (becuase of optic choice)
metal magazines
2 point side mounted sling
70-80 grain ammo or militray 62 gr gt, nothing over 85 grs
1-4 power variable scope with quick detatch
In my experiece , I see no advantage to piston driven over gas impingement. Additionally, for hard use fighting guns, I’ve not seen an advantage to lighter triggers.
400 yds. is the max range using magnification on human targets of 5.56 in my opinion, without magnification 200 yards is the max effective for realistic human target situations.
Mr. Defoor,
There are countless threads in heavy vs light barrels.
Would you share your reasoning for the selection of the heavy barrel?
Was the selection for full auto weapon or includes if it was a semi-auto only?
Thank you
I like a heavy barrel because it lasts a bit longer than a normal walled barrel. It helps with accuracy a little too, and can take abuse, like getting banged around better.
I would never shoot a rifle on full auto- complete waste of time and ammo, that’s what 48s and 46s are for.
Yes, that DD V5 is close, except I didn’t have irons on it yet.
Awesome. I was curious though. Did you take the MOE stock off and replace it with a standard CAR stock? Any particular reason? Also, suggestions on flip up sights?
Would you still want a 16" barrel if there were no NFA rules, or is it mainly on account of transporting the gun between states and so on that you would go with that length?
Yes, I removed the buttstock that came with. I always use the old Car-15 ones when I can find them, getting hard nowadays.
If there were no barrel length rules, I’d still have 16" for the weapon asked about in the OP. I’d go 12" barrel for a non-magnifed (irons or red dot only) rifle.
Hey Kyle,
I’ve heard that certain people have extensively tested barrel lengths, and found the 12" barrel to be the “sweet spot”. Even when compared to lengths that are only .5" different. Since you mentioned that you would go for the 12" as well, I was wondering if you could shed some light on why the 12" is the sweet spot, and what benefits it brings to the table that similar lengths don’t?
Thanks!
I don’t know the exact why 12" works. Perhaps it’s the dwell time combined with the twist rate?
I think that 11.5 or 12.5 would be fine too. Some of the length will
Be different depending on the hider you use. With that, gas pressure will also be different. So maybe 12.5" is good with certain hiders.
The advantages are simple- smaller, lighter, faster manipulation, and still accurate past 200 yds.
Thanks for your replies. Which optic is shown here?
Okie John
This may be a dumb question but what is that rod strapped to the side of your rifle? And what optic are you using? Thanks for your time.
The rod strapped on the side is a simple cleaning rod without the T handle. I have always carried one on my rifles with the exception of the Everyman Carbine I just did.
I have rarely done even a 2 day carbine class without letting someone use that rod to get a case unstuck ( generally becasue of cheap ammo).
The optic is a U.S. Optics SN-4S with a custom made DFP reticle. That reticle may be available to the public now, I’m not sure. My most favorite scope I’ve ever used.
KD,
First, thank you very much for your service, as well as your answers here! I am curious why your opinion of metal mags. Where does your objection to polymer mags come from? I am not in disagreement, I am simply curious the other side of the story. Thanks!
Be safe!
I’ve yet to see a carbine class where a plastic mag doesn’t fall free from all receivers when empty or locks into the receiver every time during a reload. Plastic mags also can’t be used for malfunction work.
Feed lips also break constantly and lodge in the chamber especially on non black ones.
Way not worth it for a piece of kit that was a solution to a problem that never existed.
Thank you for time and thoughts. 
Let’s discuss this a little further, if you will.
I am curious, how do I keep USGI mags loaded up without impacting feed lips under long term storage when loaded? Do you suggest any particular mods to USGI mags to enhance performance? Thanks in advance!
RCM
I don’t do any mods to a mag.
I’ve left mags loaded for 6 months at a time for 19 years now and never had an issue, especially with feed lips.