M&P slide cracked at 21K rounds.

So you like the finger grooves on the Glock?? If so, you might me the only one. :smiley: To be honest, I don’t know how anyone can say that the Glock fits them better than the M&P (espeically when they admit that a 1911 fits them like a glove). The M&P sits in your hand a lot like like a 1911 would and you can adjust the grip to match your hand size. Neither 1911’s nor Glocks offers this.

C4

I didn’t realize there were different grip options. The one I held was as big around as a 55 Gal. Drum. It also had some sharp edges below the trigger guard that really annoyed me.

The gun that fit me really well was the SA ā€œPlastic Jobā€ which I parted with.

I just think that after 30 years behind a 1911, my Muscle Memory won’t change. Hell…I can’t even shoot an Isosceles Stance/ Grip with both thumbs pointing forward. Every time I ā€œGo for Itā€ under stress, it all reverts back to ā€œWeaverā€, right thumb on the safety, and the left thumb on top of the right one.

I’m hopeless…and experts agree! :slight_smile:

However, my young friend, I have adopted the left thumb forward on the rail(ā€œnon- Chicken Chokeā€), Scout Light at 9:00, and I’ve done away with the VFG on my AR. I love this hold. Same one I use on every long gun.

I’m in the ā€œwait until I can afford to get one that I find in a private transactionā€ camp right now. :smiley:

I have short fingers. I have hands like a chubby raccon. I can get the lid off of any of the neighbors’ garbage cans, but Glocks are too big even with a grip reduction. My 1911s all have short triggers and thin grip panels.

On the other hand, I can actually reach the trigger properly on an M&P, even with the biggest grip insert installed. With the small insert, it feels kind of like it was made for me. The fit is nowhere near as good as a 1911 with a short trigger, but much better than a Glock.

All Glock’s or just large frame models (e.g., 21, 21SF)?

In full-screen video, shootback simulators, the Glock suits me just fine. These video scenarios are just training, but they do cause you to dive for cover and call for help on your radio. I have never had a problem getting the hit I needed using the Glock system. Folks I know who use Glocks to shoot badguys have not had a problem in the real world getting hits that stopped fights. The M&P has not proved that, yet. Keep in mind, I am a fan of the M&P and it is on the shortlist to replace my agency’s HK USPs in 3-4 years.

I would not be troubled by a 21K rounds service life; brake shoes wear, tires get punctured, vests get old. It costs money to stay current, deal with it.

Round count: 0



This is the .45 I recently purchased.

The slide cracked on me as I was attempting to install a Warren rear sight using the MGW sight tool. Everything was proceeding along just fine and then all of a sudden…TINK…

Ouch!:frowning:

Ouch! :eek:

Dude,
If a rear sight ever takes that much force to move, the best thing is to let is soak in Kroil for a little while and/or put the slide in the freezer. If that doesn’t work use a hacksaw and cut a groove down the center of it (side to side) about 3/4 a little more all the way through the sight. Kimber fixed sights almost always have to come of using this method (hacksaw).

Robb

That’s just it…this didn’t take any abnormal force. The handle was turning freely and then encountered just a tad of resistance (like you would expect when fitting it into the dovetail) and all of a sudden…TINK…It cracked.

The .45 was the last one I did. The 9C and full-sized 9mm went without a hitch. Removal of the factory rear was similarly without a hitch. It’s just when the Warren hit the point of snugging up that the slide gave up the ghost.

Seems like some sort of defect in the slide to me…I don’t think of myself as a weakling, but neither am I the sort of guy who can muscle a hunk of steel into snapping with just hand power. Maybe I should be included in that 2 bowling balls classification too…

Gotcha. I was thinking it broke removing the old sight. The Warrens do fit pretty snug in the dovetails (front and rear). I lube up the sights and slide with Militec-1 prior to installing the new sights and use a triangular fit to remove a little metal if required. It’s just of those ā€˜feel’ things that comes with time knowing how much to remove. S&W will take care of you I’m sure.
Just call customer service at S&W 1-800-331-0852 Mon-Fri 8:00AM-8:00PM EST.

I lube the piss out of the rear when installing too. From the way it felt it has to be a manufacturing defect. I made the factory sights move with a couple of good whacks from a rubber headed hammer and then used the MGW tool to finish removal. Then I tapped the new Warren in just enough to hold in the spring plate that sits under the sight before putting the slide back in the MGW tool. The tool was turning with the same level of force (no more than what I’ve used on other pistols like Glocks) I used to install the sights on my full sized 9 and then all of a sudden I felt an odd shift and blammo…busted slide.

See, this is why I don’t gamble. Some people have luck. Other people have night sights that poop the bed on them and slides that crack for no apparent reason.

I would wager bad heat treat.

I just spoke to a member here on the board and out of 800+ G17s and thousands of magazines in his department he hasn’t seen or heard of any Gen III mags hanging up. He also runs the departments pistol team and is an instructor at Blackwater, that use the G17s extensively. I have 40+ Gen three G17 mags and I just tried them in two different G17s and not a single one hung up.

The original Gen I mags were designed not to drop. They were designed that way (its not a flawed design, it was a requirement) because in the late 70s and early 80s that is what the Austrian Army wanted. Europeans thought it was a waste and bad form to drop a magazine. So the original mags were designed that way.

It wasn’t until the competitive shooters here in the USA started running Glocks did they change the design to full metal where they would drop free.

That’s what I was thinking.

Any way to get a pic of the rear of the slide looking forward?

Idea being to see how thick the metal is in that area (especially around the slide rail groove). If it’s thinner than the other side, or compared to other examples it could point out a problem with the machining. Otherwise, bad heat treat is a good possibility, but only a hardness test or microscopic grain analysis could tell that.

It did indeed happen at the narrowest part of the slide, right in the grove where the frame rails ride. Just looking it doesn’t appear that the area on the .45 is any different than the area on the 9mm versions. I tried getting a good rear pic but my camera isn’t cooperating.

That would probably rule out a machining problem then.

All of 'em. I have a G17 that’s had the grip reduced as far as possible, and I still have to crank my hand around too far to reach the trigger. I can shoot it, but having not much more than my thumb on the backstrap isn’t a good thing. I doubt if the linear distance between the backstrap and trigger is much different with the M&P, but the shape is different enough that my hand just seems to work better there.

What is your serial prefix?

You need to post a pic of your hand. I gotta see this!:stuck_out_tongue:

Just funnin ya. Ergonomics are different for every person, and it doesn’t matter how popular a gadget is, if it doesn’t work keep looking for something else that does.