It won’t make a difference either way.
I know I’m trolling with all this positive vibe shit… but Stick it just tickles me pink when you get in here and put in professional opinions, even when there ignored or rebuked…class act you also Grant!
We can all benefit from Stick and Grant’s knowledge. When they say something, I pay attention. Everything I know about the M16/AR15, I learned from the Military, which wasn’t very much. They gave me a comic book and a spray can of WD40.:fie:
Guns are supposed to be lubricated properly; this is how I lubricate my duty gun:
Inside upper receiver
Barrel extension
Oprod
Piston
Adjustable gas regulator
Charging handle
Ejection port cover spring and pin
Forward assist (never used, but it’s a moving part)
Trigger springs
Selector switch and axle
Mag release
Bolt catch
Buffer and spring
Bolt carrier
Bolt
Firing pin and spring
Cam pin
The inside of the upper receiver and the bcg gets the most lube, the other parts get a “light” coating; enough so I can see the lube on there. Never had an issue.
As for the statement about getting dirt and debris accumulated in the receiver extension if you lube the spring, I find it highly unlikely based on my experience. That area does not get very dirty.
And again, excessive lube is mostly an issue for external parts on the AR, and for crew served weapons, in sandy/dusty environments.
I have never had an issue with weapons that are properly lubed. I have had and seen issues with dry guns, both crew served and AR’s, in most environments, including in the middle of firefights (not my rifle, but weapons in my team).
The devil is in the details, and my advice is to be meticulous in your approach, to ensure proper function when you need your weapon the most.
When I install the buffer I hose the spring down with Breakfree CLP spray and then roll it on a dry shop rag to get the excess off and then install. Every few years pull everything clean buffer, spring and tube with Gunscrubber, braklleen, slip 725, etc. and then relube spring and install.
Look, there are so many thoughts and OPINIONS on how to clean and lube (what portion of) the platform. Bottom line is if you are counting on it for defense of yourself AND OTHERS, you need to be responsible and insure you have it in the proper state of cleanliness and lubrication.
Also, if you haven’t noticed or caught the name, Arctic1 and Norway means it’s cold and apparantly his gun isn’t freezing. And yes, blah blah, he has a piston–which still has springs in it.
Most of the quality RE’s on the market have a dry film lube on the inside of them.
The spring (with rolled edges) does zero damage to the inside of the RE.
In regards to the spring, this is a wear item (3,000rds) so the odds of it rusting before needing changed out is close to zero in my experience.
Unfortunately, I have logged more training ours in pouring rain than I can count. It is so bad that many of my friends assume that once I step foot on the range it will rain. 
Point to the above is never once have I had a buffer spring rust.
C4
The FCG does benefit from oil. Look at geissle triggers for example, the manual says to grease the engagement surfaces and keep the pins oiled.
Definitely helps, but not essential. I oil the FCG once in awhile and grease the sear surfaces.
Tried lubing the spring/tube, but found it just got dirty. Wiped it all off and have never done it again.
It’s self lubricating. Whenever I decide to clean, it’s covered in dirty oil and carbon from the BCG…
I only run Geissele Super 3 Gun triggers. Haven’t had a problem in over 5,000 combined rounds (4,000ish on one and over 1,000 on the other).
I put a few drops on the spring and buffer.
No need to go crazy, the lube won’t burn off there and it IS the most sealed part of the action from a dirt perspective.
Exactly.
You are probably causing accelerated wear on your trigger. You can ask Bill himself. Unless he says otherwise Im going to keep greasing and oiling my FCG.
My rationale for being so meticulous in my lubrication plan is to ensure proper function over time in demanding climates and terrain. In the case that dirt, sand, dust, snow etc gets into the action, it is still lubricated properly and will function.
I have seen failures to cycle in insufficiently lubed weapons, I have seen weapons seize up completely after being shot in an almost dry state in sandy/dusty terrain in the middle of firefights, I have seen selectors stop functioning from being bone dry, ie not rotating. All of the above problems were solved by applying lube.
Lube/oil has 4 properties/functions:
-Cooling
-Cleaning
-Protecting
-Lubricating
There are no parts that won’t benefit from being lubed, in terms of the overall reliability of the firearm.
Same here.
It can be when you use stupid aftermarket CS springs instead of the correct USGI part. :rolleyes:
The best part of the paul howe rifle vid is the cleaning section. He paints everything with a brush full of tw25b. " i like to lube the buffer spring bc I dont like that springy sound".
sent from mah gun,using my sights
I’ve never felt the need to lube the spring, buffer, or RE. It’s never seemed like an area prone to need lube providing the interior of the RE not being damaged. Mind you I’m just a hobbyist shooter…
Agreed. If you’re lubing your action spring… read my SIG LINE!!! 