In particular Slip 2000 EWL compared to Mobil 1. Due to a lot of research/feedback for the past year or so I had begun to use Mobil 1 on my (wife’s :rolleyes: ) Bushmaster and also due largely to what I had been reading here I ordered Slip 2000 EWL for my new LMT.
As for comparison they both seem to behave in a similar manner. Both seem to stand up to the heat of continued use in a DI system. EWL seems a little ‘thinner’ it tends to run out any crack it can find, but it still remains wet where it was applied. Mobil 1 seems to stay where it is put better, it stays wet but doesn’t seem to ‘travel’ as easily.
They both make cleaning easier, again I’d have to give a slight edge to Mobil 1 here. Although I can’t call this definitive. Due to weather I only put 100-120 rnds through the LMT with EWL. However I had maybe 500 rnds on the BM since it’s last cleaning after switching to Mobil 1. I was quite impressed with it’s ease of clean up and ability to stay in place after so many rounds.
I use small bottles filled with Mobil 1 and glass droppers, this makes application much easier. I may follow suit and get a glass dropper for the EWL. I plan to continue this comparison and see what happens. But I must say I am already tempted to switch to Mobil 1 across the board.
I know many of you have more experience and shoot more with carbines. Have any of you done a similar comparison before? Any thoughts?
I use auto tranny fluid for oil and brian enos’ slide glide when I need grease. It must work as I’ve never had a lube-related malfunction but I think there has to be something better out there and will watch this thread closely.
I use Hoppe’s lube in both of my AR’s. Both run without hiccups. High round counts as well. After a day’s shooting of several hundred rounds in a compact time span, my carrier is still covered in (dirty) lube.
I’ve been playing around with Mobil-1 on other people’s guns and my own, for the past few years, with excellent results. My 1911s all seem to like it fine. I am not a chemist, by any means, but can any industry professional who is knowledgeable about/designs firearms lubricants, explain what exactly the advantages are to weapon-specific lubes like Slip2000, MilTec, FP-10, and the others, compared to simple Mobil-1 or transmission fluid?
I’m not cheap when it comes to my guns, but it seems that, at $1 per ounce for CLP/Dri-Lube/Brand X/Amazing New Lube of the Month vs. $7 a quart for Mobil 1, there had better be some magic happening in the smaller bottles, something that makes them, by definition, better for guns, as opposed to being simply marketed for guns. Engines run hotter than firearms, so I know it’s not that. I would like to know about real, designed-into-the-formula advantages that make firearms-specific lubricants a better choice for firearms - and if not, why aren’t we pushing Mobil 1? All informed opinions appreciated in advance.
In my experience all the higher end gun lubes work almost equally well. I use Militec-1, Slip2000, WeaponShield, Machingunners Lube/10-8 lube).
For direct impingment standard ARs I find that WeaponShield burns off the slowest. I notice this while shooting supressed. Militec-1 I find burns off almost as slow.
I’ve been shooting regularly, and quite frequently, for 32 yrs. in northern Ohio. For most of that period I was using the original formula Clenzoil for lubing everything. Back then they only had one product, it was made locally and worked very well. I still have some of it from a bulk purchase that was made before they started coming out with their current line of products, so I can’t speak for it today.
In the last 5 years I’ve been using a lot of Militech, Slip2000, and a 2:1 “red oil” blend that I mix-up of Mobil1 motor oil & auto trans fluid. My experiences are far from being scientific, but I see little difference between the lubes in all weather conditions with high round counts and using suppressors. One AR, that is used primarily for classes and instructing, gets “red oil” exclusively and it just keeps running.
I’ve used everything from CLP to synthetic motor oil. I’m running Slip 2000 EWL now primarily because it is non-toxic and not petroleum based. It works as advertised.
I normally use militec on my handguns and rifles for slow fire. If I do a high round count shoot (500 rds +) or attend a class, I’ll run with Slip EWL. I have been curious about Mobil1 lately and definitely will be giving it a try.
I haven’t tried Mobil1, but have used and continue to use Militec, Slip2000EWL, and Weapon Shield. I have a good amount of Militec, but once it is all gone, I’ll probably just use Slip2000EWL. I have had good results, and like someone else mentioned I like that it is non-toxic and not petroleum based unlike the Militec or Mobil.
For direct impingment standard ARs I find that WeaponShield burns off the slowest
That’s been my observation as well since they sent me samples to try. Also, I don’t see as much fouling clinging to things either, even on dirty as hell SBR’s.
To the best of my knowledge Mobil 1 is not petrolem based, it is a full synthetic, so is Slip 2000. Where are our automotive engineers when we need them.
What about Gun Butter? I have seen it on some 1911 sites and MSTN Sells it and shows it with a Receiver & Carrier Lubrication using Gun Butter & and special wipes. Check out MSTN web site and the section on lubing the Rec & BCG with their special kit.
I use a little on the contact surfaces on the bolt carrier and the upper. I use Hoppes oil on everything else. I haven’t had an issue thus far but I’ve not wrung my rifle out in various weather conditions or high round counts.
i know a bit about engine oils…and it makes sense to me that if you are going to use a motor oil in your rifle, probably best to look for those that have the API “energy conserving” circle symbol on the back.
these normally contain friction modifiers of some sort, such as ptfe or moly. anything that reduces friction cant be bad i guess:confused:
unless you are using it in a motorcycle with a wet clutch…
I’ve been working on using up a liter of Mobil 1/ATF for a couple years. It doesn’t run off and at a 2-3:1 ratio it’s thin enough that it doesn’t slow down and sludge up like straight 10w30. As cheap as it is, I just submerge the BCG and loosely wipe off the excess.
I haven’t tried the Slip EWL or 10-8 stuff yet and don’t see a reason to run grease in an AR. I am playing with slide glide on the pistols though.
Mobil one is NOT a “true” full synthetic. The only oils that are that I know about are: Amsoil, Castrol 0-30 European formula, some Royal Purple oils, some Redline oils, and then the designer stuff for certain car manufacturers. I think ELF may be, but am not sure. I am sure there are a couple I missed, but Mobil 1 is not among them. After losing a law-suit with Castrol (Mobil 1 accused them of lying basically, as Castrol calls their group III with Group IV/V added oils “fully synthetic” which is slightly deceptive.), they now include just enough group IV/V oils to be considered “fully synthetic” according to a lable they apply. I hate mobil 1 and it has given poor results compared to the 0-30 Euro formula (Pure synthetic) Castrol I use. With Mobil 1 I: used more oil, and had more grey goo on my drain plug magnet. True, LS1’s like to use oil, but 0-30 GC cut that in HALF.
