Just wondering if anyone knows of markings that differentiate between manufacturers and brands. Since fcg’s are getting hard to find i picked one up that is supposed to be a certain brand but wanting to make sure it is. Plus this is one question i’ve had that no one seems to go into detail on.
One side of the hammer has a #2 and the other side has two s’s. The trigger has two s’s and a #3 on one side and nothing on the other with 2 flats on the sides about half way down the trigger(shoe?). Just eyeballing the geometry of the engagement area looks off.
I’d also like to add the grove in the selector looks horrific and didn’t want to rotate without force when the detent is installed. This is the first time i’ve assembled a lower and i’m wondering if this is the norm? To me it seems the end points are drilled too deep and grove is rather jagged. The detents are gold colored if that helps identify what parts i have.
Well i stoned the selector groove a little to remove the jagged ridges that made it want to stop midway through it’s travel. It rotates smooth like it should now, not to mention a bit quieter.
Still trying to figure out if i was sold what i was supposed to have gotten. Maybe some pics will help?
The pull doesn’t feel too bad but does have more creep and more weight than i like so i’m going to have to fix that.
Also i’m using a lithium/mineral oil based grease made by lubriplate on anything that moves. I’ve used it for a while on rimfires with good results but they don’t see the heat/pressures this rifle will so i’m wondering if i should look into another lube?
I’ve seen those markings on your trigger and hammer on LPK’s from RRA, Stag, Armalite and Doublestar LPK’s. I wouldn’t be concerned with anything, just ensure everything is properly installed and shoot it to ensure proper function. You’re gonna have a hell of a time getting an LPK anytime soon anyway.
I was wondering if it might have been an unpackaged dpms group. It was sold as a rra lpk for 70$ and the only other packs i could find locally were dpms for the same price and would’ve had to drive to greenwood.
I was also wondering if anyone has used anything like this…
… or just a set screw to remove some of the creep? I’d have to run a tap through my lower to finish the hole to use a set screw which i’m not sure i want to do. So i figured drilling a screw and putting a set screw in it like the one in the link or buying a longer 1/4 x 28 and turning the end down to fit may be better solution.
Just wanted to see how well it works before i go through the trouble.
