I am building my first AR. I am 18 and still learning about guns so no hating. Seriously. Anyways, can I afford to go on the cheaper side with the lower parts kit except the trigger? I was thinking of a geissele trigger.
No, go with a well respected manufacturer. DPMS does not fall under the designation. If there’s one area I wouldn’t skimp, this is it. There is a lot of stress on certain pieces of the lower parts kit.
Colt or Daniel Defense are the only ones I would use now that they are readily available in multiple online stores.
http://www.gandrtactical.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=SPK99796
This is what I would do.
http://www.gandrtactical.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=SPK99796
Most of the critical components would be in the Geissele trigger. You can skimp a little on the rest. Not sure what available kits are out there less the trigger group. G&R has the Colts, but that’s over $60. I think Bravocompanyusa had complete DPMS in the $40s range. You probably don’t want their barrels or Bolt groups, but for the small parts of an LPK, you’re probably ok.
JP makes a LPK with no trigger, and goes for about $40.
pretty sure you cant talk about a subject thats been discussed here before. have to use the search feature.
inbtc
(in before the close)
These are some of the relevant threads you can read on the subject.
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?13773-Lower-Parts-Kits-brand-differences
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?37940-best-lower-parts-kit
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?91218-Highest-quality-standard-LPKs
Rock River kit with a 2 stage trigger is nice and can be had for around $100 to 130 or so. There’s a vendor on AR15.com that sells them for a good price. I would fit the trigger to the type of shooting you plan on doing.
I can’t think of an reason to not get a psa or Anderson lpk on the cheap. I’d stay away from ptac lpks though.
Joeboboutfitters kits have been good budget kits for some of my builds and if you are set on a nicer trigger, they have LPK minus triggers as an add on item if you buy the trigger from them. Giselles wife’s company makes some nice milspec type and combat triggers.
RRA triggers are some of the crappiest and have some of the highest failure rates. I personally know 4 people in the last year who all replaced RRA triggers after very little use. Something like 1000 rounds give or take a couple of hundred.
Really, this is the one area? What parts have high stress in a LPK?
I’m with markm - barrels and bolts are the two biggest parts. If you use a quality after market trigger or get lucky with a good GI one, many LPKs will be fine, assuming they have all of the parts.
That being said, does anyone have any experience with the DSG kits?
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This is the best option I’ve seen recently: https://www.primaryarms.com/Spike_s_Tactical_Lower_Parts_Kit_Without_FC_p/slpk100.htm
I have 2 AR’s with RRA triggers. One is a factory RRA, and the other I built. My RRA has just shy of 4k rounds through it and the trigger still functions properly. Supposedly RRA fits each trigger group to a particular lower during assembly
My build’s RRA trigger “lost” the second stage after about 2k rounds. What I did was surface grind about .007" off the back of the disconnector that contacts the shelf that limits its forward rotation. That allowed the disco to make contact with the trigger’s engagement area before the trigger broke, which gave me back the second stage.
What are the typical RRA trigger failures you’re seeing? I’d like to know what to look out for.
…and sorry for the hijack
Primary has great customer service, don’t hesitate to do business with them.
The kind that force users to trash them or grind on them. Kindof like yours.
The hammer for one. The pins holding the crap together is another example.
Also, you can go into tapacrap settings on your phone and disable the tapacrap advertising it slaps onto every post.
ETA: I now see the context of this was an LPK without the trigger group which has “most” of the components that would be stressed. Although I wouldn’t want switches or levers breaking either.
Have you had experience with the RRA triggers?
What I did was fit the trigger to a particular lower. If RRA had chosen to use a set screw for that adjustment, it would be a simple thing to do. Some other 2-stage triggers have user adjustable features
Bolt catch for one, the safety selector is also a critical component that could render the weapon inoperable if it doesn’t function.
A colt lpk from G&R with a QMS trigger will be about $100. It isn’t worth screwing around with sub par components to build a rifle that your life could depend on, especially considering that every magazine you fire will cost about $10 in ammo.
Uh yeah, the bolt catch for one. That thing needs to be pretty damn solid.
I don’t skimp on any part of a rifle. But you can skimp on certain areas with little to no consequences. Flash hider (A2=$8), grips (A2=$3.50), stock (mil-spec-$24), etc.