Low Profile Pinned Gas Block?

How about a photo then? :cool:

I didn’t have a chance to get some pics, it’s been stupid busy at the shop and I don’t bring my camera with me to work everyday. Sales are up about 60% in the shop I work in.

Here are some photos. Just note that A) the gun is used alot and B) I suck when it comes to photos.

Awesome. The well used look is fantastic.

i suggest chopping the FSB down and reshapping it in to a low profile. nothing a Dremel and some time can’t take care of just go slow and be careful.

My take.

How to taper pin a gas block

Less work and cleaner look then chopping a FSB. You can also reuse the FSB on that barrel if you wanted to in the future but you would have an extra taper pin groove. :wink:

I’ve never installed a LP gas block before, what is the best way to make sure the gas holes are perfectly aligned? I’m thinking about going to flip sights on the front, I was reading this thread about the shaved fsb, and now trying to figure out should I shave mine or just buy one, and who makes a good gasblock that seems secure better then others?

Thanks

Read the link in my post above yours.

Are all aftermarket gas blocks have the same set screw spacing as the jig in the link, or is the jig for only a certain brand gas block?

On most the rear set screw is in the same position or close enough to work most of the time. On some it is not and causes problems. However your FSB ā€˜shaved’ will always have the same taper pin holes as it did as a FSB when you remove it ā€˜shave’ it and reinstall it.

Just sayin’…:wink:

I’d venture a guess and say all of the rears are in the same location since the gas port in the gas block is drilled through this hole. The jig uses the pointed set screw into the barrel gas port to align. The front hole varies (Vltor and Larue are the same, PRi is very close but not quite)

The shaved FSB is a strong way to go if you don’t grind too much away. I don’t like it since I like the option to go back to a fixed FSB in the future, tough to do it if you grind it up. For me it’s less work to pin on Vltor block then hack and refinish a FSB but I have the tools to do it too. It’s all good. :smiley:

The jig was designed around the Vltor and LaRue which have the same spacing. The PRi I tried was close but not quite the same.

Since the gas port is drilled through the rear hole all of the gas blocks I’ve seen have the rear set screw hole in the same location, right below the gas port. The jig uses a pointed set screw tightened into the barrels gas port to align itself.

Just wondering which would be better other then a shaved front sight, a low profile with set screws or a low profile with clamps? to me seems like the clamp style would be a little stronger and easily adjustable if ever needed especially if the set screw style was not dimpled right from the get go. I’m just trying to figure out which one would be more feasible for me, I plan on putting ona troy free float, so I trying to figure out which one would fit with no probles and very little chance of moving on me.

A low profile with a set screw AND a pin is the best way if not using a shaved FSB, this is why Noveske gas blocks are set up this way.

Set screws would hold a gas block for most people especially if its covered by the FF tube/rail, but if you to be damn sure it can’t/won’t move then pin it. As long as you know or the person doing the work knows what they’re doing you’ll be good. It’s stupid simple to remove a FSB and shave it and reinstall it. You can’t misalign it and you don’t need a gig.

I noticed that www.specializedarmament.com is offering ā€˜shaved’ FSBs as an option. Ken Elmore must believe as I do that the FSB from the factory is the most reliable…I’m just sayin’ :wink:

I agree with GotM4 that the shaved FSB is the best option.

Mike,

Thank you for your interest in Daniel Defense and our products. While our gas block will fit, it doesn’t fit well. With the limited amount of space under the Omega Rail, I recommend that you consider the CMMG Micro low profile gas block. If you have any more questions, please feel free to contact me.

Best Regards,

Joe Marler
Sales Representative

This is in reguards to the Question ,
What gas block will fit under an omega rail

comp1911

I am impressed with the ease of your dimpling jig. I just ordered one from Rainer Arms. My weapons are more of a hobby for me and I like the options of varying the configurations from time to time and feeling like I have a brand new rifle. I was not able to find your pinning jig for sale and was wondering if you could point me in the right direction. Ialso look forward to seeing your fsb jig soon.

The pinning jig is still under development I guess. I got the water jet sample last week and with a little file work looks like it is viable. Problem is the waterjet vendor has not given me a price yet. I also need to hone my machining skills if I’m going to do the machine work myself. Most likely I’ll try to sub it out though. Once everything falls together, it looks like Rainier may be the dealer for these as well.

As far as the FSB jig, the job shop I use is getting busy and the proto type gets bumped down the production line. I did make a change to the design to simplify things so hopefully that will get bumped through.

Thanks for your comments. Stay tuned. :slight_smile:

well after reading this thread I decided to go ahead and shave my fsb, one thing I was wondering and this is for either gotm4 or rob_s on the bottom where the taper pins go do you think the corners on it should be shaved as well or will they be ok to fit into a troy 10", I havn’t received the troy rail yet waiting for the delivery man, so I went ahead and shaved the fsb to get it ready, but in some photos here I see the corners shaved all the way around and on rob_s it looks like he left the corners intact, I copied the pics and circled where I am talking about.

Has anyone shaved their fsb and installed a troy rail over it? if so did it have good clearance?

Just round the edges well and the shaved FSB will fit under the Troy rail well. The tightest spot inside the Troy rails is the wide of the gas block at the top of it. Just make the front and back edges the same width as the middle spot and it’ll fit. Be sure to remove enough metal where the supports were as well.

The reason the one I shaved for a DD Omega looks like it doesn’t have taper pins is because that one has a perm. mounted A2 flash hider and is 14.7" long making it 16". The Omega has very small inside dimensions.