Looking for Surefire tape switch mounting ideas

Tactical Gear Tactical Lights, Lasers & Knives
1

I’ve been experimenting with several different ways of mounting a Surefire tape switch to the rail on my rifle; my first idea was to mount it to some shaved down XTM panels using the supplied hook and loop tape. That lasted all of three days before it peeled off and got dirt under it during a class.

I bought some more velcro at Wal-Mart and relocated the switch to the 10 o’clock area and attached it directly to the fore-end itself in between the 9 o’clock and 12 o’clock rails. After a range trip and 400 rds later I began to realize that idea didn’t work as well as I had hoped; and even though it was really comfortable the sticky side of the velcro had burned off from the heat of the gas block and barrel.

Finally I saw one of the Ergo switch mounting kits at a local shop, and for $9 I didn’t figure I’d be too disappointed if it didn’t work. Well it didn’t, go figure. It’s too bulky and takes up too much space both laterally and height wise.

I didn’t want to go and spend $70 for the Surefire SR07 but it looks like my options are running out. Any suggestions?

Also just to cover my base I’ll disclose that I don’t like push button caps on lights. I run a 10" rail on my SBR with a RVG way out towards the end and there’s not enough room to get my thumb behind the light to turn it on.

2

Tangodown rail panel with pressure switch mount. Or adjust grip to use the thumb.

3

https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?p=984904#post984904:slight_smile:

4

Danke shun my friend, my search-fu is weak today.

5

What kinda Surefire are you running? If position is the reason you can’t just use the push-button there’s a metric shit-ton of adapters out there that can put it where you need it. I use a Gear Sector on my Scout and have been nothing but pleased with it, and it STILL cost less than a SR07. I really don’t like pressure switches on anything other than a PEQ-15.

6

I think the sr07 is the way to go at 12 o’clock. It’s takes some pressure to activate it and for those that are concerned, it’s very hard to have an accidental press.

The provided tape switch takes no effort in comparison. A lot of guys don’t care about this, but I do hear it as an argument quite often so I figured is mention it.

If that’s not a concern, it does appear that the ladder style DIY Trident posted is the way to go.

I look at it like this - I put somewhere in the neighborhood of $2,500 to $4,500+ into each AR, give or take, so it’s worth the $75 to get the better switch. I think it should be provided or much cheaper, but it is what it is.