Completed this one tonight.
*I’m still waiting on the HK grip and have a Colt grip installed as a placeholder.
Very nice. Look forward to range report.
Awesome build! The WOA SPR is on my short list for a DMR build. Can’t wait for the range report.
Very nice build. I like the parts selection
Those WOA SPR barrels shoot lights out
20 round clips and an Atlas bi-pod. 
Which Atlas do you recommend Markm? Also, do they attach to a small piece of PIC rail? They have so many damned options it is a bit confusing.
I have plenty of 20 round GI mags.
Zeroed it today.
On the positive side, the rifle functioned flawlessly, the scope is excellent, a bit tight on 18x but nothing I can’t endure. Certainly not a shitty scope. I like the option to have Green or Red illuminated reticles and the glass is very clear.
Ejection was a bit forward, not much I can do about that except maybe change the extractor spring, but since it is a Sionics BCG, so not sure that would be of any value.
I am definitely not happy with the groups. The best I could manage out of the barrel was 1.5 MOA.
Not sure if it doesn’t like the three loads I tried, if I was off or if I need to try a new muzzle device.
The muzzle device was about a half turn away from where I like it so I crushed the washer a bit more than I care to usually.
Maybe my WOA expectations were too high?
This was the best group and I can normally shoot better. The others were between 1.8 and 2.0 MOA.
Maybe the barrel needs to break in? How tight did you make the muzzle device? I won’t tighten mine past 25 ft lbs to avoid any chance of accuracy degradation.
I didn’t torque it, I just turned it until it was tight and aligned properly. The more I think about it the more I think it is the flash hider.
Did you go with the 1:7 or 1:8 twist SPR barrel? What loads did you shoot?
1/7 twist on this barrel and I shot two different loadings of 77gr SMK’s and one load using 55 gr Barnes bullets after neither of the 77gr loads produced results.
These loads aren’t “world class” but easily shoot sub-moa in my 16" chrome lined combat style barrels and Wilson Combat barrels.
On the positive side, it cycled and functioned flawlessly.
I just removed the FH and the crush washer had to be screwed off the end of the barrel. Never had to do that before so I’m a thinkin that was the issue. Will try another FH I have inbound tomorrow to see if it times better. Regardless, I will stop on the less torquey end of the spectrum and buy a FH that times properly in any position if necessary.
I would buy a Smith Enterprises Vortex if I was concerned about the muzzle device affecting accuracy. I’d also use Surefire Shims, or at worst Precision Armament Accu-Washers.
You might consider shooting groups before installing the new flash hider.
I did consider it and since you suggest it also, I don’t consider it a another one of my crazy ideas.
I will do that on my next trip to the range.
May I ask why you went with a Wylde chamber?
Because it isn’t as sloppy as a 556 NATO chamber and this was supposed to be a precision rifle.
Two of my best shooting .223 rifles were post ban and did not have flash hiders. They also had Wylde chambers.
I’ve fired without a flash hider attached to a new match barrel to determine how the attachment affects accuracy. If a crush washer is used, I’ve seen a noticeable difference in accuracy at 300 yards.
Applying torque to a muzzle device on a barrel is like hanging a paper clip on a tuning fork IMHO. It can change things.
How do you protect the threads?
Biggest thing is to make sure the threads are clean before attempting to install anything, especially on stainless steel which can gall. I’ve only used stainless flash hiders on stainless barrels as well. Make sure the threads line up before attempting to thread the MD on, you can do this by turning the MD in reverse until you feel the threads seat to the barrel threads. If you don’t plan to mount a suppressor to your MD, then you can apply a thin lubricant (CLP, WD-40) to the threads before installing. My rule of thumb is 20-25 ft lbs of torque on the MD.