I’ve been researching the “how to’s” on installing/removing a KAC URX rail. I know this has been asked a thousand times, but is there no easier way to remove the rail pieces without “the tool”? I am wanting to paint my upper and need to remove the rail. This is a major hassle. :sad: Any advice?
To get the rail off without messing the barrel nut up, you really need the tool.
Also use a heat gun. The rail is lock-tighted on.
Its really easy to get on and off if you have the tool, otherwise I wouldnt even attempt it.
The best thing to do (unfortunately) is to take the $250 plunge and buy the tool, along with a torque wrench. Things could get very messy if you tried to make your own tool for it. Plus, if the barrel nut gets messed up on that URX, it’s all over…
Man, that really sucks. I’ve got to find a better solution. The paint company nor my local armorer has the tool. My paint project may have to wait. :sad:
About $30 in materials, a competent machinist/welder and a torque wrench are all that’s needed. Unfortunately, off the top of my head, I don’t know the exact specs of what he used but all it took was…
- 18" DOM tubing of appropriate OD and ID
- Craftsman 1/2" drive socket to fit inside the tubing
Machine the front to match the barrel nut (this is the part where the competent machinist comes into play).
Then shove the socket inside the other end.
Weld the socket in place (this is the part where the competent welder comes into play).
It may not be worth the hassle but I have seen it done. A very good friend of mine made the wrench himself using just these items and only took about an hours worth of time in the shop. It worked absolutely flawlessly and if you look close, that’s pretty much what the KAC tool is made of anyways…
If you don’t have access to a full machine shop in your garage, then it would probably just be simpler to buy the tool. Or send it to someone who has the tool and have them do it…
There are KAC dealers with the tool and they will install it for you, but will most likely charge you around $100 to do it.
I have the tool to do the install, but not the time so I can’t help (sorry).
It is also a good idea to get someone that has a lot of experience with installing these to do it. If not done right, they will most likely come apart.
C4
You could just send it to Casey at Lawmens and have him cerakote it for you. He could handle the disassembly, reassembly & paint. I know he has done several in FDE. If you’re looking for some other color, I’m not sure if he would have what you’re looking for. Give him a call and see.
Agreed. Casey at Lawmens or Wes at MSTN is the easiest, hassle free solution.
I have to ask- why not paint the assembled upper? That way you avoid any potential scratches during the rail reinstall.
I would imagine it’s hard to get good coverage on the barrel under the rail.
Wait, you live in Metairie?
I live in Mandeville, drop on by, we can drink a few beers and change your rail if you want. I have a URX tool.
PM sent.
Good to see you LA boys sticking together! I grew up in Baton Rouge, but have been gone since '93. Man I sure do miss the cuisine down there.
It’s not difficult with a good airbrush. I’ve done several. There may be some areas, e.g., top of the barrel under the gas tube, that won’t get 100% coverage, but you won’t see them anyway.
If the OP wants a different color barrel from the HG, then that’s a challenge.
Casey at Lawmen’s is the way to go. It’s been awhile, but I think it cost $50 plus shipping to get my URX installed.
If painted while installed, the inner portion if the rail wouldn’t get coated. And, I want to paint the barrel and gas block.
Thanks again for the offer. We need to link up and talk shooting, training, etc. I am always looking for shooting/training opportunities, like Vata Group next month.
I’ve taken everyone’s advice and contacted Casey. FYI, Casey offered to remove the rail and then reinstall the rail after I had it painted FOR FREE! Knights continues to impress me.
When it came time to turn my rifle over to someone to be painted, I decided to trust the Knights specialist. Casey and Lawmen’s have my SBR on the way for FDE coating. It just felt right. ![]()
Thank you all for the good advice. I’ll post some pics of the completed job when she gets back.
For anyone interested there is a URX wrench for sale in the EE on this board and there is a machinist that made his own with a spare or two for sale over on TOS.
I thought you weren’t supposed to reuse the nut on the URX. Is that not the case?
KAC states you are not.
If we’re going by the book then yes it is not recommended to reuse a URX barrel nut. But there are shades of grey to that and it really depends on who is doing the work. We’ve done plenty now to see some completely destroyed and others are more then capable of being used again. Either way we always send anything we build out with a new URX barrel nut.
What is the proper ft/lbs required when torquing on the barrel nut?