I’ve heard that KAC announced that the gun would run properly in a 14.5’’ configuration if the barrel was cut. Is this %100 true?
Will any gas port work need to be done? I’m concerned about dwell time issues with the Intermediate gas system.
If I were to run a switchblock would I use the 14.5’’ Midlength model that I ordered or should I cancel it and get a 16.1’’ Midlength version?
Help wanted.
From some other place on the silly internet…
Posted by KevinB from KAC.
“The shortest you can go on the SR15E3 is 14.5 with the midlength gas system…”
Sweet. No gas port work?
Well. You can go 11.5’’ but the muzzle threads will have like half a hole in them.
Actually. Mine is just a little shorter than 11.5’‘, it’s like 11.2, or maybe 11’’ even.
Hm. :blink:
Anybody have an idea on the switchblock question?
Wouldn’t be able to shove the switchblock under the URX-II as far as I can tell - at which point it becomes immediately more attractive to just get a BCM/DD/Centurion 16" LW Middy, small gas block, URX-II, and if you want, cut it down to 14.7", maybe dimple it.
Sure, you’re losing the E3 Barrel extension, and unique SR25 gas tube arrangement, but it’s a cheaper overall upper, pretty similar weight, and lacks proprietary parts (beyond the URX wrench)
All the research Ive done into this indicates, from several informed sources including a couple KAC employees, states that 14.5 will run fine.
I do not have any data on the switchblock, but would be interested in any info you can get on that.
I don’t have the URX II on the rifle anymore. I traded it for a 9.35’’ FF RAS which I like better anyway. I did it specifically for the Switchblock. (Had a co-worker who had a URX wrench, and was willing to do the work. Part of the trade.)
The block sits around 3/4’’ away from the rail. I’m not that good at eyeballing it. The gas tube is a little exposed, but it looks cool, and I doubt it’ll be any worry.
That isn’t an issue.
I honestly do appreciate the advice though. You guys have been really helpful.
Actually the Gas Block is right at the end of the URX II, the reason I did it for the Switchblock is because the RAS is a little farther back than the URX II was, and I didn’t want there to be any more heat build up than there would normally be.
I’m assuming that the SB heats up more than a normal block. That’s what I’ve heard, and what common sense tells me.
Who did you hear that from, and why would it heat up more than any other gas block?
I read it on TOS a few months ago, right before I bought one. (11.5’’ Carbine model, that I’ve never used, and am about to trade it to a friend for a non used 14.5’’ midlength one.)
Also I would think it would heat up more due to gasses getting trapped in it because of the variable ports.
Okay, I sound stupid, but I don’t know the anatomy of a switchblock, and it makes sense to me. :rolleyes::(
Grab a hold of a low profile gas block some time and let me know how it gets… 
They all get hot, you’ve got to remember that they are attached to the barrel, which is also known to get pretty warm.
Try to watch what you read on the internet unless you know its a credible source. The internet is filled with people who are posting about things without first hand knowledge, and with guys who are trying to pass themselves off as something they aren’t.
Its always comical to go to a board and find a poster asking for information about what to buy for his first AR15, and that same person has been posting for years telling other people what they should do and acting like they are all knowledgeable.
After accidentally placing my uncovered palm on an LWRCi gas block during a string of fire, I will never put my hand out that far again.
If I had a camera I’d post my scar. I got a small second degree burn on my left palm.
I know, I’ve seen it on TOS, that’s why I asked here.