JP Hammer Spring

BLUF: Is a stock hammer spring and the JP red hammer spring comparable?

I have a set of the JPS3.5’s coming for my SIG716 (JP Reduced Power Spring Kit). I’ve read many posts about the hammer spring from this set causing light strikes, especially for .308’s. Can I just stick with the stock hammer spring and still notice significant trigger pull reduction with just the JP trigger spring installed? Or should I work on getting a set of the JPS3.5T’s which have the red hammer spring (JP Reliability Enhanced Spring Kit)?

Thanks,
C_

Wait so your wanting to mix a low pull weight spring with a normal hammer spring. Yeeea I’d personally stay away from mismatched springs… unless you want dangerous issues. That is just IMO tho. Don’t run weak springs if you are having light primer strikes etc. Or best yet just put a solid fcg in it and not worry about springs.

I saw this idea in the latest RECOIL magazine. Maybe I didn’t pay close enough attention, but I am skeptical.

Yea I’m always leary of mixed springs but just because I’ve had some skewed fcg malfs.

I’ve seen mods where people even cut or bend springs to weaken pull weight and worked out good for them. Not for me personally. I prefer just having a good fcg where this kind of stuff is not needed in the first place.

Last thing someone wants is an AD or failure. I guess it’s just one of the few things on a gun I feel tinkering with is a bad idea.

Personally the only real answer I can see the OP getting is one from JP. I’d shoot them an email about this and if they say g2g, it probably is as it’s then their liability.

Buy a Geissele. http://geissele.com/super-semi-automatic-ssar-trigger.html

I have no doubt a $200 geissele or timney is superior to new springs, but a ton of people report night and day improvement with this little $10 mod. Failures really isn’t a concern, as many have reported running the JP trigger spring with stock hammer spring successfully. Was more interested in how noticeable the difference of running lighter trigger spring only is compared to the full set. I’ll give it a try here shortly…thanks for the replies.

Follow-up question which might help financially justify purchasing an aftermarket drop-in trigger…is there a decent secondary market for factory parts (trigger, buffer, flat buffer spring, A2 flash hider)? If so, where’s the best place? eBay?

Yea I’d stay away 100% from ebay with anything gun related. Just about everything these days has Chinese knock offs and imo almost guranteed to get one even if purchasing from known decent sellers on fleabay. Just keep an eye on the EE here. FCG’s however are typically one thing I prefer to buy new, unless it’s from a real reputable person like IG etc. You def don’t want to risk getting something from someone who has no clue what they are doing and have possibly damaged the parts (thus them wanting to sell them).

IMO if you don’t want to spend 200+ keep an eye on CMC triggers. They every now and again go on sale for 150ish for either the flat or curved. Had good experiences with them and use them in almost all builds. IMO however, an ALG ACT is so smooth, I like it just as much as my CMC FCG’s.

Hope this helps.

Ps stay away from Geissele triggers :slight_smile: You get one… suddenly all your guns will have one theehee. They the best out by far, and the only reason I haven’t bothered to actually keep one, is they make all my other triggers feel like crap.

Learned that the hard way…got some knockoff magpul xtm enhanced rail covers I’m in the process of replacing now. Think I’m going to save up for the geissele…took me a minute but I came around…

I have run most of the aftermarket triggers and the two stage geissele is a great setup but for my own use I tend to like the single stage best. I have run the JP with yellow springs and speed hammer for years and like it a lot but have learned that I am just fine using the stock springs with JP’s trigger and hammer. It is a bit more pull weight but a nice crisp clean pull & my groups are just as tight when I do my part. I still enjoy the same setup with yellow springs for my varmint rifles I just prefer the reliable ignition and safely provided with heavier springs in duty rifles. I know that some will argue that the JP setup should not be used in a duty type weapon because of the set screws potentially working loose but I put a great deal of confidence & respect in red locktite #272. I have much experiece throughout my years of separating parts that have been assembled with it. Many that have been subject to years of vibration and impact equalizing or surpassing that of a firearms trigger. It’s tuff stuff! Heat would be the only enemy & I just don’t see an ar15 trigger reaching 180 deg. unless you are approaching melting point of your bcg.
Anyways to get back on track, I believe that both the light and heavy springs have their place. I suppose even mixing them ias long as its not a working gun where lives are at risk.

Close but not the same.
With the red spring I get a 3.0 lb pull in my JP system. With a milspec hammer spring its 3.5, so the red is a bit weaker. Would not trust it for 100% reliability with a stock hammer, only a light hammer, such as JP.
When getting into trigger springs, I expect the yellow spring to reduce the trigger pull in a stock setup without affecting hammer force. Would definitely test the combo to determine if its reliable.
No harm in experimenting, as JP is made of quality materials.

Mark