J Frames okay with the lock?

I have two j-frames with locks with around 2500 rounds through my 642 and maybe 1000 rounds through my 638. No issues whatsoever and these guns are carried daily. In fact the j-frame (most with locks) is the most popular BUG around mine and other local agencies and I have never heard of an issue outside of online gun forums.

Yea, mlk, seems the more people I talk to, local shooters or smiths, have little to no issue w/ them. Most all say put the key away & never use it…but haven’t found anyone, here, who has had problems.

Thinking I’ll just never use the key & leave the one I’ve got…as it is…& just buy a little more practice ammo.

I don’t have a round count on mine but have not had an issue with the lock. It sounds easy enough to fix and remove the lock and just prevent any.possible issue. It is on my list of things to do.

Yea, I read that earlier post…
However, unless I’m missing something, that will leave a hole in the side (where lock mechanism was). If so, it seems the potential of getting trash inside & causing issues is far more likely.

*I don’t doubt that lock problems have occurred (Just like people have been killed by falling meteors)…just not sure of the likelihood of a lock malfunction or how rampant the “problem” may be. I just don’t have data…& am getting just old enought that “THEY say…” doesn’t get as quick a knee jerk reaction.

Then again…what do I know…
just my .02… Though w/ this economy & current administration, I probably OWE you for reading my ramblings…:haha:

You can get a plug for the keyhole. Do a quick search and you’ll find a couple sources for them.

Thanks, for the info, RWK…
Still, w/o data, I doubt I’ll make any change to the one I have.

I’ve personally encountered a partial lock engagement on my S&W 317…a .22 LR J frame.

Will it happen on every shot with every revolver? No.

…but it does happen, and it has happened with sufficient frequency that I de-lock any revolver I own for serious social purposes. Yes, there’s a hole in the side after you do that…but it’s not going to introduce any more vulnerability to crud than the big hole that the hammer moves in, and generally the little hole will be covered up by a decent holster.

You can always, you know, check the revolver regularly to make sure the action isn’t crudded up on you. You cannot, however, check the lawyer lock to ensure it’s not going to engage on you the next time you pull the trigger. Therefore de-locking is the less risky move by far, especially on a carry gun.

My wife and I have four j-frames, all with the lock. They are a pair of 642-2, a 317, and a 649. The 642s are my backup guns, the 317 is a training gun, and the 649 is a backup for my wife. They are low rd count guns right now, with no more than 1500 rds among the four of them. We don’t use the locks. Have never had an instance of the locks self-deploying, or causing any kind of problem.

In a perfect world, I’d rather theguns didn’t have locks, but I view them as a minor flaw. If/when I have an instance of a lock tying up the gun, I’m sure my opinion will change quickly.

Your dealer is incorrect. We stock and have in stock 442’s and 642’s without the internal lock.

In fact S&W is moving more and more revolvers into the “no internal lock catagory.” Their new PRO SERIES do not have the locks (got those in stock as well). :wink:

C4

Based on what I’ve read and heard throughout the years it seems the lightweight (aluminum/scandium) framed revolvers firing magnum loads tend to be the ones that have had the problems. Not that it hasn’t or would never occur with the heavier stainless models. And these are very very rare occurences. And not as prevalent as some claim.

I see it this way. The chances of something going wrong with the lock within those 5 or so rounds (and possibly a re-load) when I’m using it to defend myself seems incredibly remote. About as remote as a squib or overcharged round. Not to mention all other things that could go wrong. If it ever happens it’ll happen during the thousands of rounds I’ll be shooting when I’m at the range. Granted, I do only shoot and load standard .38’s and .38 +P’s in my steel frame Mod. 60 and 640, but not out of fear of a lock problem. For me, not a deal breaker. But no doubt we’ll all celebrate once S&W gets rid of this unfortunate “feature” for good.

…

…

Takes about 10 minutes to remove one.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVPYgohVCNM

I don’t disagree with that. I’m just giving my perspective. I think we should all pressure S&W into dropping these locks whether through not buying them or just bad mouthing them in general. But still, I don’t have a problem using mine for protection. I guess I like to live dangerously.

This is excellent news!:dance3:

You are indeed missing something.

The lock is three main parts. The tumbler, the lock arm (aka the flag) and the lock arm spring. Removal of the lock arm and the lock arm spring effectively removes the lock from the pistol without the need to remove the tumbler as well. That way you do not end up with a huge round hole on the side of the gun.

Well that is good news. The reason a lot of companies started making guns with built in locks was to meet requirements in states such as Mass. I don’t blame them it is prob cheaper to manufacture your own than buy and repackag.another companies lock with your gun.

I know remington did something with locks in their trigger guard/saftey area and Glock had someone thing in the back strap area of their guns too.

This perspective is worth the read…
AND…I LOVE his closing line!
http://michaelbane.blogspot.com/2007/08/s-revolver-safety-failure.html

I have an old Model 60 in .357 with no lock, and a 642 that had a lock. I removed the lock, and dropped in one of the little round stainless steel plugs to fill the gap.

The pistol cycles just fine. It took about 20 minutes to do, taking our time. It is a lot easier to do with two people. The WECSOG factor is pretty low, really.

If I ever have to send it back to S&W, I’ll put the stupid lock back in it.

I would definitely buy a J-frame without the lock. But as been proven here many times, it’s your money, your firearm, and your life. To me, the $20 was cheap insurance for my cheap life insurance. :wink:

I shot mine for years with the lock. It was not till recently that I had the lock removed. I have heard of them locking up on their own. I heard enough of those stories to A. either get the lock removed (very easy) and B. to buy right the first time and get one without a lock.