On that guide rod, just change the spring.
Use Glock brand magazines, especially when troubleshooting. The mag being clear wont improve reliability or accuracy.
I see a 17, 15, 13 and 11 pound recoil spring and a 3lb, 2lb and “Pro” striker spring, which do you recommend.
I buy Glock parts from glockstore.com when possible. Get a factory striker spring(not sure weight).
Stock weights are 18# for a g17 and 16 or 17# for a g19.
Not sure you have a spring issue- does the slide not go into battery when released from slidelock? Maybe the it needs broken in? Maybe it needs a factory spring? Generally factory springs dont cycle reliably with comps. Is the spring too heavy?
Edit
See 1. And 2. In post 7.
I would also recommend returning the striker spring and recoil springs to factory. The heavier (stock) spring will cause a slight increase in trigger pull weight, but the trade off is reliable ignition. In several of my Glocks I use the factory extra power striker spring to get reliable ignition with hard primers (had a bad lot or two at work). I think my trigger weight went up about a pound.
I also strongly recommend using factory mags for defensive purposes. I have ETS and Magpul magazines, and while they have run pretty reliably for me, I only use them for training to avoid wear and tear on my Glock mags. As cheap as mags are right now, there is no excuse for not picking some up.
My own two cents; the more I have carried and shot Glock pistols, the more stock they have become. Right now I carry a Gen5 19 for work and the only non factory part is a grip plug. Everything else is factory, including the BOLD sights. About the craziest any of mine get anymore are a Wilson Combat barrel (my favorite aftermarket) and one RMR I am evaluating.
Guys, step back a minute and think about what you are saying.
He paid 1200.00 for a custom pistol that doesn’t work. I get the put it back to stock and work from there when troubleshooting something you built, but I think it is ridiculous to do that with a custom gun you have purchased. Much less go out and buy stock parts you don’t have on hand to test the weapon.
Send it back. Absent that go to a gunstore that has an armorer/smith and have them check it.
I don’t know if Zev sends a build sheet with their pistols that details what has been done and specifies what ammo the pistol has been geared to use. If that is the case, perhaps the OP didn’t read the sheet to find the ammo. I would definitely use 124 or 147 grain ammo versus bulk pack 115’s to test.
As for this:
- First of all when I racked the slide to load the gun, the slide would fail to fully lock into shooting position, I had to use my palm as a “forward assist”. I noticed this happened a few times and it looked like the extractor was not able to grip the rim of the bullet or the slide didn’t have the forward momentum necessary to fully put the bullet into the breech.
The term would be fail to go fully into battery. Pretty much the most common causes have been mentioned. You mentioned I used both threaded ZEV barrel and non threaded ZEV barrel. Were they both fitted to the pistol? I ass-u-me that at least one is fitted. It could be they got it a little tight which might be exacerbated by a lose grip in causing the slide not to go fully into battery.
For your general knowledge, when an auto pistol feeds a round, the case head slides up under the extractor. If the extractor is set too tight it it may cause the problem you’ve experienced.
One course of action might be to have someone else (a knowledgeable shooter) fire the pistol and see if they have the same problem.
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Second, the slide never once locked open after the last round. IMO as to order of probability - thumb riding on slide catch, weak grip, bad mags, recoil spring too stout, slide velocity outrunning mag spring. Check the mags by inserting each one, empty, into the magwell with the slide forward. Using an overhand grip on the rear of the slide rip it vigorously to the rear striping the slide from your hand. If each mag’s springs and followers are good they will lock the slide to the rear.
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Third, every 4 or 5 rounds I would have to manually cycle the gun to eject a round that failed to fire. After examining the round, I noticed that the primer had an indention from the striker. Where were the indentations on the primer? Glocks have a tendency to give light hits if the slide isn’t all the way into battery. In those cases the indentation will be off center and light. Yes, they could have a spring combo in the pistol that is giving you light hits, but, with all that has been said, I doubt that is the case. If that is the case, it is their problem to fix, not yours.
TLDR: Get a known pistolero to shoot the weapon and see if they have the same problems. Use full power ammo, not bulk pack. Have an armorer/gunsmith look at it before you start swapping parts. Send it back to Zev.
Thanks for your help 26 Inf:
Any Glock/Zev pistol pros in and around DFW willing to test this? I can donate 200-400 rounds
OP clearly does not want to send it back.
Should have purchased a Glock, but he doesnt want that either, so here we are
Send the gun back, let Zev make it right.
Could’nt agree more… OP, you’re finding out the hard way about some of these “custom” glocks…
This is the true and correct answer.
Ok, took the gun to the gun store I bought it from who employs a full time gun smith.
He was only able to replicate the slide not going into battery. But only one time after 10 attempts. So the slide not staying open after the last shot fired is most likely from me, and I think its because this gun as a large mag release and I am trying to keep my thumb out of the way of it and most likely putting pressure on the slide release. The light primer strikes could not be replicated by him. The reason he gave me the slide is not going into battery is most likely the extractor depressor plunger that operates the extractor, there is a little black plastic plug that is inserted in the rear of the spring with some kind of guide and it was damaged. He says that is the most likely reason the extractor got hung up on the bullet. He didn’t have that little plastic piece so he is ordering a new plunder/spring. I could have damaged it the first time I bumped the slide into battery. Who knows…
Other than that, it should work like a charm from here on out. I didn’t want to send it back because this is the only gun I have and ZEV is weeks behind right now. I appreciate you guys help, thought we couldn’t replicate the light primer strikes, I will just have to play it by ear.
Having multiple guns is a good thing. Whether it’s another Glock 19 (Gen of choice) or even another make & model, is another choice. I can hardly remember when I only had one handgun available. I think it was in 1988.
Just for the readers’ info, the polymer “spring loaded bearing” which may be the problem is a $1 part if ordered directly from Glock by a certified Glock armorer, but could take 2 to 4 weeks to get, again, if ordered from Glock. If ordered from Brownells, it’d be a $2-$3 part, but overnight shipping is an additional $20. Brownells standard shipping would usually take ~week. This is just for info.
If another similar Glock 19 was owned, the subject part could be taken from the working Glock and used in the non-working Glock, should the non-working ZevTech Glock be the preferred one to carry/use/shoot.
I hate having broken guns laying around awaiting parts, too. I feel the frustration in this thread.
I believe you are talking about the spring loaded bearing. There are two of them for the 9mm’s a thicker one for a non-loaded chamber indicator extractor, and a thinner one for a loaded chamber indicator extractor. This one is for a loaded chamber indicator extractor: http://glockparts.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=6838&CAT=801
If they had the thicker one on an LCI extractor that might be your problem.
Even if fitting the wrong bearing, it would be pretty hard to mess one up unless you put the slide cover plate on without depressing the spring loaded bearing. This is the slide cover plate: http://glockparts.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=6801&CAT=739
Do you know if he checked the slide to see barrel hood to slide gap was correct?
I believe the most likely cause of your light primer strikes was a slightly out of battery condition.
Hope it works.
ETA: someone else got it while I was typing.
Elephant, if your light primer strikes are slightly off center, it’s very likely that the light strikes were due to being slightly out of battery.
It is possible that the spring loaded bearing may be part of the extraction issue but I’d have to see it to know for sure.
It’s not uncommon to have to tune a custom pistol to run with a particular load so there is a chance that you may need to try different recoil spring weights - so that is a possibility however, I’d talk to Zev about the problem before jumping to that conclusion.
My advice to first time Glock owners that are seeing problems are to use a firm thumbs forward grip, and make sure that you are not impeding the slide or limp wristing. Also to run a warmer round such as 9mm NATO for the first 100+ shots.
Good luck!
Well, to be honest, I also have a older Ducks Unlimited Browning Buckmark .22 that my dad gave me. A couple of years ago I had a Sig MK25 that I really liked and it was stolen out of my car along with my phone. I actually carried the Browning until a few months ago when I purchased this gun. I figured “any day now” the police would call me and I would get my Sig back so there is no reason for me to go out and buy another gun. But after 2 years I figured its long gone, probably in Mexico, tucked in the pants of a drug mule running cocaine in the US for the Sinaloa Cartel-granted that’s the worst case scenario.
I acquired a Glock 19 that had a Cerakote slide, match grade barrel, and RMR.
Luckily I had the original barrel with the fancy barrel. It was my first thought to replace that piece first. The gun shoots fine. But with Cerakote and the right tolerances of the other barrel it did not match.
Any time there are additional mods, I try using as much of the original parts and see what works. I carry spare parts mainly because I have a big basement where springs have soared never to be found again.
When I worked on my CZ 75, the pin broke and I was in trouble since I didn’t have a spare. I bought spares just in case I had to service my firearm.
Same goes for my Ruger Mark II. Spare springs, firing pin, etc.
It is disheartening to hear an experience for a premium gun to fail, though.
I’d love to see an update after you return from the range. For me, I just go into my backyard and fire away. For others it takes driving somewhere that may not be convenient for time or other circumstances.
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You’ve claimed in previous threads you have a watch collection worth well over 100k, had a Ferrari, and enough disposable income to own and operate an AIRPLANE.
Stop being stingy and buy a stock Glock while you wait. Or don’t.
Whole things bizarre.
Whoa! Lol!
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My thoughts exactly. One is NONE. Two is one. I can’t imagine living without two carry guns. $500 for second stock G19 (and it will work) is an easy solution to this problem.
Glock 23 police trade-in’s are $325ish. Not a huge investment in a secondary >