Put too much stress on the FSB? I read some review about cheaper bayo to Picatinny adapters becoming loose over time because they were made from softer metals.
1- You will affect POI if you exert any pressure on the bipod, and any differences in pressure during a shot string will result in inconsistent groups.
2- It’s $50 you could be putting toward a quality rail.
When I got my first AR, I had all kind of stuff circled in the Brownell’s catalog to put on it. Thankfully, I was broke.
This isn’t the answer you probably want but here goes anyway…
I assume you want a tripod to be more accurate. Your rifle won’t be a tack-driver. For the money, it is an adequate AR but not designed to fill a DMR or SPR role. One of several things lacking to really “reach out there” you’d need to shoot a heavy (69g+) bullet. I’m pretty sure the M&P15 is only a 1/9 twist, which will not take advantage of the heavier bullets.
Your rifle is light, (very nice), hate to see you ruin that good trait by hanging “cool” stuff off of it. I would recommend you maintain your rifle’s “lightness” by only adding a light Aimpoint T-1 (4 oz) RDS and a BUIS and practice shooting.
I’m not talking your gun down, it is a good choice that I’ve recommended it to several people but I think a tripod doesn’t belong on it.
Was I right…you didn’t want to hear this, did you?
Going FF is going to cost money.
If you want to do it yourself and don’t want to have to deal with the delta ring, the DD Omega would be my recommendation but will run $250 (+) unless you snag a used one.
There are less expensive options, but they require a more involved mounting solution.
Unlike many other things in the firearms world, a FF rail brings some very real, very tangible gains to performance. Whether or not you need it is dependant your application and budget.
If you purchase a FF that comes w/ a barrel nut such as a Troy TRX or whatever other rail system you dont nee to cut your delta ring. I added a TRX to an upper that came w/ the standard plastic handguards w/o damaging the delta ring and will uses it on another upper down the road. There are decent FF rails out there for under $200 if you decide to go that route.
You don’t necessarily need a rail system in this day and age with the advent of the MOE handguard. They have their place and are the best option, but if money is an issue, I would put it on the back burner until other requirements are filled i.e. optic, light, BUIS etc.
Start out small, then work your way up until you figure out what you actually want/need. You won’t know what you want/need just by looking at pictures in catalogs. Your rifle won’t shoot anymore accurate without you knowing how to employ it. Optics don’t help you shoot better, they help you see better, and a free float handguard isn’t going to improve your groups if you can’t shoot tight groups in the first place.
Your list should look something like this to start out:
Rifle
A good sling
Mags & ammo
Instruction / time behind the gun
Once those requirements are met, you should have a pretty good understanding of where you need to go next.
I think F2S is trying to recommend an easy to install free float railed handguard for a new AR owner. The DD Omega requires no alteration to the host weapon to install. Thus, for a novice it has a lot of appeal. I like the Troy TRX too, but it’ll require removal of the front sight block and existing barrel nut - which is major surgery for someone who just purchased their first rifle.
In terms of escalating difficulty to add a free float handguard to a rifle…
Daniel Defense Omega requires no alteration to the host weapon.
Troy MRF (and similar designs) requires the removal of the delta ring, but does not require the user to remove the FSB or barrel nut.
Most other designs (including Troy TRX, LaRue, DD M4, SWS, etc) will require the user to remove the FSB, barrel nut and delta ring assembly.
I agree that the Troy TRX is a great, lightweight rail. I really like the VTAC version. But I wouldn’t recommend it to a new AR owner to install himself.
You need to get a quad rail on there - heck with that bayonet lug rail adapter (that’s awful). So, get the quad rail and then get a grip pod - it’s the best of both worlds, a forward grip and bipod in one. You should be able to find one for $50 with the metal inserts. Then save up and add a good trigger, something like the Geissele SSA or a modular trigger like Chip McCormick, etc. Get a sling and a light and some optics and you’re set. Either way, you’re about to spend a bunch of money! :dance3:
I’m going to echo JSGlock34 and suggest that you grab a set of MOE handguards, a lightmount and a light (VTAC mount + SureFire G2 is hard to beat) and spend the rest on ammo/training. Im a firm believer that the first item to go on any weapon should be a light.
This is:
Light
Practical
Cheap without sacrificing quality
The money you spend on ammo/training will be far more valuable than any piece of tactical gee-dunk you could ever throw on the rifle.
Don’t get me wrong I want all the HSLD, whiz-bang gear on mine as well, but time spent shooting the weapon will help you zero in on what you really want and in the long run, save you money that you can then spend on shooting the rifle more:D
Thanks celebrate the election of our illustrious President, the Honorable Barack Hussein Obama I went on a black gun buying spree. I am now the owner of several ARs. If I had one AR and was buying my first accessory I would get a dedicated 22 LR upper. My buddy and I have Spike’s Tactical uppers and are very happy with them. You cannot find more value in an AR accessory than such.
for 60-75 you can get 225-280 lumens with an EXCELLENT beam